HELP!!! Paint Experts
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 89
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From: Clayton North Carolina
HELP!!! Paint Experts
Finially got to the point where I am actually applying color and clear (basecoat/clearcoat system). Paint went on good, but when I applied the clear, (3 coats color, 3 coats clear) I got some serious runs/sags in the paint around the mirrors on the doors.
My question is, what is the best way to clean this up. I thought I would wet sand with 600 grit the majority of the runs till I get rid of them, then wet sand the entire car with 800 grit and shoot another coat of clear.
Is this the best approach or does anyone recommend a different tactic
Thanks
Mark
My question is, what is the best way to clean this up. I thought I would wet sand with 600 grit the majority of the runs till I get rid of them, then wet sand the entire car with 800 grit and shoot another coat of clear.
Is this the best approach or does anyone recommend a different tactic
Thanks
Mark
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,102
Likes: 1
From: Forsyth Illinois
Before you redo the whole car,if it turned out okay,wrap 1000 grit around a paint stick,and BE SURE to stay ON TOP of the runs/sags,and go VERY slow.Make sure it is wet sandpaper.Dry it w/shammie(SP!!??),and you will see where you are w/it.When you statrt getting close....wrap 2000 grit around the paint stick,and still stay on the high areas,then work it in to the surrounding area.Then buff w/medium compound,and polish.
W/3 coats of clear....you have plenty of material there,so you should be okay.If you can't pull it off,then just reclear the doors where the sags/runs are.
They have little "files" to remove runs,but they always scare me,so I use the method I told you above.I have also,used a sharp new razor blade to trim it down back in my earlier years,then go forward as described.
Just go VERY slow.W/that fine of a grit...it takes awhile,but will help you to not break thru.If they are real bad,then use 600 wet wrapped around one finger,and work on the high,then go to 1000,then to 2000.
Good luck,and it happens to everyone.It will be okay.
W/3 coats of clear....you have plenty of material there,so you should be okay.If you can't pull it off,then just reclear the doors where the sags/runs are.
They have little "files" to remove runs,but they always scare me,so I use the method I told you above.I have also,used a sharp new razor blade to trim it down back in my earlier years,then go forward as described.
Just go VERY slow.W/that fine of a grit...it takes awhile,but will help you to not break thru.If they are real bad,then use 600 wet wrapped around one finger,and work on the high,then go to 1000,then to 2000.
Good luck,and it happens to everyone.It will be okay.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 5
From: Kernersville NC
I'm no expert but I have plenty of books on painting.
What they recommend is making sure the sags/runs are thoroughly cured before beginning to do any sanding. This was important since if you cut into the sag or run and there is wet clear underneath it will not sand well and may expose the base.
Sand using a nib file (which I think is the file vettesbydesign was trying to think of). Then finish up with wet sanding the car and proceed to buff and polish.
What they recommend is making sure the sags/runs are thoroughly cured before beginning to do any sanding. This was important since if you cut into the sag or run and there is wet clear underneath it will not sand well and may expose the base.
Sand using a nib file (which I think is the file vettesbydesign was trying to think of). Then finish up with wet sanding the car and proceed to buff and polish.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
the clear will wet sand away, no problem, thats better than too little clear,
as long as you do not sand thru the clear, you do not have to reshoot. 69VETT
as long as you do not sand thru the clear, you do not have to reshoot. 69VETT
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
The best way to deal with runs is not sanding. It's near impossible to only sand the high points and you will likely go through next to the run.
Here;s a trick. Take a single edge razorblade. Wrap two layers of tape around the the ends to cover the corners of the blade and leaving the center of the blade open.
You then use the blade to scrape the run off. the tape does 2 things.
1. it prevents the corners of the blade from digging into the paint.
2. it acts as a spacer keeping the blade slightly above the paint making sure you don't go too deep.
Once you've scraped off most of the run, then you sand. There is now less to sand and less worry about going through.
Here;s a trick. Take a single edge razorblade. Wrap two layers of tape around the the ends to cover the corners of the blade and leaving the center of the blade open.
You then use the blade to scrape the run off. the tape does 2 things.
1. it prevents the corners of the blade from digging into the paint.
2. it acts as a spacer keeping the blade slightly above the paint making sure you don't go too deep.
Once you've scraped off most of the run, then you sand. There is now less to sand and less worry about going through.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 547
Likes: 13
From: Carlstadt NJ
The best way to deal with runs is not sanding. It's near impossible to only sand the high points and you will likely go through next to the run.
Here;s a trick. Take a single edge razorblade. Wrap two layers of tape around the the ends to cover the corners of the blade and leaving the center of the blade open.
You then use the blade to scrape the run off. the tape does 2 things.
1. it prevents the corners of the blade from digging into the paint.
2. it acts as a spacer keeping the blade slightly above the paint making sure you don't go too deep.
Once you've scraped off most of the run, then you sand. There is now less to sand and less worry about going through.
Here;s a trick. Take a single edge razorblade. Wrap two layers of tape around the the ends to cover the corners of the blade and leaving the center of the blade open.
You then use the blade to scrape the run off. the tape does 2 things.
1. it prevents the corners of the blade from digging into the paint.
2. it acts as a spacer keeping the blade slightly above the paint making sure you don't go too deep.
Once you've scraped off most of the run, then you sand. There is now less to sand and less worry about going through.
Danny
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
If the run is only in the clear coat, then either method above will work. Just use the method that you feel most comfortable doing. Since mirrors are curved items, you just need to be careful not to gouge the clear coat with blade, file, or paper. If the curve is an 'outside' curve, back up paper with a rubber backer block (1/2" thick); if it's an 'inside' curve, wrap paper around something that is curved just a bit more than what you are working on. Use lots of water or soap/water spray to keep the work area clear of debris.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 780
Likes: 1
From: Shelby NC
If the run is only in the clear coat, then either method above will work. Just use the method that you feel most comfortable doing. Since mirrors are curved items, you just need to be careful not to gouge the clear coat with blade, file, or paper. If the curve is an 'outside' curve, back up paper with a rubber backer block (1/2" thick); if it's an 'inside' curve, wrap paper around something that is curved just a bit more than what you are working on. Use lots of water or soap/water spray to keep the work area clear of debris.
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