Windshield Mounting Adhesive?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 649
Likes: 10
From: Shelby Twp MI
Windshield Mounting Adhesive?
I think I'm getting close and want to know what I need to mount this windshield correctly. I've already painted the birdcage with epoxy primer and I need to know the best adhesive to get. Also, any set-up/spacing tips?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
Go to the parts house or a finish master paint & body type store and ask for a box of Window Weld.
Hopefully the guy behind the counter wont stare back with a vacant look and ask "what year and make?" as he clicks keys on his puter terminal thing.
I had a one of the reputable mobile glass companies put a new windshield in mine for $225 with a lifetime warranty.
Hopefully the guy behind the counter wont stare back with a vacant look and ask "what year and make?" as he clicks keys on his puter terminal thing.
I had a one of the reputable mobile glass companies put a new windshield in mine for $225 with a lifetime warranty.
Last edited by RobbSalzmann; Aug 10, 2009 at 07:24 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I too am looking for detailes on installing and setting the correct windsheild height,
so the Trim will line up properly ? 69VETT
I Basically want to make sure the installer does it right !
so the Trim will line up properly ? 69VETT
I Basically want to make sure the installer does it right !
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,168
Likes: 4,244
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi EM,
On my 71 I used 3M Windo-Weld as Robb suggested. I used the 1/4" round bead , # 08610. It holds the glass far enough from the frame so the SS trim fits well, without gaps. I used lots of 3M strip sealer around the glass too.
Regards,
Alan
On my 71 I used 3M Windo-Weld as Robb suggested. I used the 1/4" round bead , # 08610. It holds the glass far enough from the frame so the SS trim fits well, without gaps. I used lots of 3M strip sealer around the glass too.
Regards,
Alan
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 5
From: Sacramento California
In our older cars, the manufacturer used "Butyl Tape" the Auto paint stores carry it and that is what you want to use. You might want to buy the rubber spacer blocks if you did not save them when you removed the old windshield. "Window Weld" is a mess to work with and getting the correct depth so the moldings fit properly is difficult.
When you are ready to set the windshield you set the rubber spacer blocks at the bottom of the channel, roll the tape out around the opening, (and be sure to have the seam on one of the posts, not the top or bottom) when the tape is set, you can lay the glass in place, resting the bottom edge on the blocks (to keep it centered in the opening), start gently pressing down to create the seal from the tape to the windshield, sitting in the sun for a while during this period will help the initial seal and allow some give when reinstalling the trim.
Butyl tape was used during the 60's and 70's on most American built cars and will give the correct space depth for the trim. I have replaced several windshields through the years and only made the mistake once of using Window Weld.
This is what I refer to as Window Weld - http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya...hannelid=BCOME
When you are ready to set the windshield you set the rubber spacer blocks at the bottom of the channel, roll the tape out around the opening, (and be sure to have the seam on one of the posts, not the top or bottom) when the tape is set, you can lay the glass in place, resting the bottom edge on the blocks (to keep it centered in the opening), start gently pressing down to create the seal from the tape to the windshield, sitting in the sun for a while during this period will help the initial seal and allow some give when reinstalling the trim.
Butyl tape was used during the 60's and 70's on most American built cars and will give the correct space depth for the trim. I have replaced several windshields through the years and only made the mistake once of using Window Weld.
This is what I refer to as Window Weld - http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya...hannelid=BCOME
Last edited by 427basketcase; Aug 11, 2009 at 05:06 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
The correct way to mount a windshield on a C3 is to use 3/8 ribbon sealer. The factory used thinner ribbon, but that's because the original glass was thicker. Today's glass is thinner so you need 3/8". It comes on a roll and looks like this:
The 3M sealer comes with the blocks. They go on the TOP, not the bottom. Without them the top of the glass will sink towards the frame too far.
Be sure to lay the ribbon perfectly straight along the a-pillars as the seal will be visible along there even with the trim installed.
The 3M sealer comes with the blocks. They go on the TOP, not the bottom. Without them the top of the glass will sink towards the frame too far.
Be sure to lay the ribbon perfectly straight along the a-pillars as the seal will be visible along there even with the trim installed.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 5
From: Sacramento California
Sorry, but the blocks whole purpose is to prevent the BOTTOM edge from sliding down and resting on the bottom of the frame, your other advice is good.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
There are metal bracket stops bolted to the lower frame for the glass to rest on. Where would the blocks go on the lower frame? Sorry, I'm not making sense of this. AFAIK the blocks go on top as that is where the molding goes and you want to keep the top from squishing the ribbon too much.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,168
Likes: 4,244
From: Westminster Maryland
I believe the factory used the rubber blocks because the Thiokol sealer that was used on the production line came out of a caulking gun and was soft enough for the pressure of the glass to compress it. A foam rubber 'damming strip' was used around the inner perimeter of the glass to prevent the thiokol from oozing far enough to be seen from the interior of the car.
The present day Windo-Weld is firm enough to keep the glass from compressing it. I used a 'damming strip' only for an original appearance.
As soon as I put the windshield in, I put the 2 A-pillar SS trim pieces on which compressed the Windo-Weld to the right thickness so there wasn't a gap between the glass and trim.
I found the Windo-Weld pretty easy to work with.
Regards,
Alan
The present day Windo-Weld is firm enough to keep the glass from compressing it. I used a 'damming strip' only for an original appearance.
As soon as I put the windshield in, I put the 2 A-pillar SS trim pieces on which compressed the Windo-Weld to the right thickness so there wasn't a gap between the glass and trim.
I found the Windo-Weld pretty easy to work with.
Regards,
Alan
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,687
Likes: 833
From: WI
I've put in several windshields (non-vette) using urethane adhesive out of a cauk tube. You want good adhesion, that is the way to do it ...no leaks. But then ya have to use the rubber blocks. The tape is the better way to go for restorers who don't have much experience with the urethane sealant, but strength is less (not that it matters that much). I haven't decided what to use when I do my 81 windshield, I think I'm leaning towards the butyl. Just throwing out other ideas.
Mark G
Mark G
