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Script emblem backing material?

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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Default Script emblem backing material?

I'm removing and cleaning/repainting the [front fender] Stingray script emblems. What do I use for the sticky-backing substance when I re-install them. They need some adhesive/cushion on the back to keep them from vibrating and wearing the paint underneath. Does anyone sell such an item already cut to fit the script?
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Hi Charley,
I've never seen the cushion/adhesive available without the script.
Are you going to use the strip to hold the script on or just as a cushion.
If you're going to use a couple of speed nuts I'd think a thin bead of black silicone that you let set up before you put the script on would work.
I believe the trim tape that Ed suggests will be pretty hard to cut to fit the intricate shape.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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The 3M tape that EdT recommended appears to be a good alternative...but it has to be cut accurately as you mentioned, Alan. Maybe an X-acto knife to trim it after sticking to the emblem, but before peeling the 'car' side of the backing off. Also, it is grey foam...not black...and that might show after installation. Not so sure I want to go the route of silicone sealant; it might pull the paint off with the next removal. Thanks for the ideas, fellas! Other thoughts are welcomed...
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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No adhesive or tape here for 8 years.

I took my emblems off 8 years ago when I got the car painted. I put the emblems back on the car without tape and they stay with no speed nuts and interference fit of the pins. After 8 years, I have no marks on the paint and I can easily remove the emblems for cleaning and waxing the car.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 11:12 PM
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Interesting! I doubt that I would do that for fear that they would fall off with a big bump in the road. But I'm happy that it has worked out for you. If those 'pin' holes are really a tight fit on those l-o-n-g pins, I can see how they would tend to stay in place.
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Hello 7t1. I do not know if you still need any input on this but here goes. I pulled my emblems off in the 80's to repaint, clean around as you want to do. I had a friend at the local auto paint store and he gave me some 3m double sided black foam side moulding mounting "tape". It required two strips for the flag emblems on my '77 and I used a new x-acto #11 blade to trim around. I have some gray 1" wide that came from Wal Mart but know your concerns about color. Good luck, mds...
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 06:32 AM
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Outstanding! Do you know where your friend got the black 3M tape? Short of getting a pre-cut item that is made for the script emblem, that is the next best thing.

By the way, I just finished repainting the inner 'lip' on the script emblems and that job is a PITA! I thought that I could wick the paint onto the lip from the side...but it was uneven on how high it wicked onto the chrome part. So, I still had to scrape it with an X-acto knife. Anyone know what process was used to paint these items by the original manufacturer? Or, at least, a better method than I chose? {I know, everyone else just buys new ones....well, that's just the way I am.}

Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 13, 2009 at 06:38 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 12:01 AM
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The 3m product that I used came from his auto paint store. I do not have a part number as that was about 20yrs. ago. It came on a long roll and was for side moulding. On my car it appears to be black or very dark gray. On repainting the emblems I normally mask the black outline and then spray with Krylon. On my L82 emblems that is pretty easy but your scripts may be much harder. My only idea is to mask entire emblem with thin masking tape, the cheapest Wal Mart has and cut away area to be black. Several light coats to prevent seeping under and over tape. These need another coat of red. I use Testors model car paint on interior recessed areas applied with a tooth pick and flowed into area, works pretty good. mds...

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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Nice job on your emblems; they look new. I did mine in similar fashion, but used Porcelain enamel for metals that you bake to permanent state after the paint has dried.
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