Engine Compartment Blackout
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
SEM #39143 Trim Black
Recommended by several on the NCRS board as a suitable replacement for the Krylon #1613,
On my '69, I did not paint the inside of the fenders, only the wheel wells. Firewall only part way down.
Recommended by several on the NCRS board as a suitable replacement for the Krylon #1613,
On my '69, I did not paint the inside of the fenders, only the wheel wells. Firewall only part way down.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 409
Likes: 5
From: Orange County CA
I just finished my engine bay this week. I used semi gloss POR15 followed by a 2 part Epoxy satin paint from Summit Racing.
The name of the paint from Summit is Chassis Shield and cost about $50 for a quart including the catalyst. I also used it on my AC compressor, pulleys and brackets. It has the perfect sheen of black in my opinion.
The POR 15 looked pretty good by itself, but it came out kind of streaky. You need to spray the Epoxy paint over the POR 15 before it completly drys or it will not stick to the POR15.
I blasted the brackets and pulleys and sprayed them with Summits epoxy primer before shooting the black.
Here are some before and after pics.
The name of the paint from Summit is Chassis Shield and cost about $50 for a quart including the catalyst. I also used it on my AC compressor, pulleys and brackets. It has the perfect sheen of black in my opinion.
The POR 15 looked pretty good by itself, but it came out kind of streaky. You need to spray the Epoxy paint over the POR 15 before it completly drys or it will not stick to the POR15.
I blasted the brackets and pulleys and sprayed them with Summits epoxy primer before shooting the black.
Here are some before and after pics.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 3
From: Gretna La
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 409
Likes: 5
From: Orange County CA
If you have access to a compressor and spray gun, I think the 2 part catalyzed paints would be more durable than the rattle cans, and depending on how much you need possibly even less expensive. The Chassis Shield kit I bought from Summit was about 50 dollars, but makes 2 quarts of spayable product. Most rattle cans only have a few ounces of paint in them..the rest is propellant.
I have not tried the SEM product, but I know they do make pretty good paints.
I have not tried the SEM product, but I know they do make pretty good paints.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
Having limited resources and time this last summer, I went with rattle can from the big box store. Since a frame-off wasn't planned (this project started out fixing a leaky radiator and grew exponentially as I started unbolting stuff), I wanted paint that was easy to recreate.
Used Rustoleum Hi Performance enamel in semi-gloss black after a thorough cleaning, degreasing, and more cleaning. Used the better part of 3 cans, recoating road-exposed areas at least twice. Paid about 6 bucks for each can.
Ended up with this:
I plan on taking lots of "prior to" regular driving images because I don't expect museum level presentations after a few months of use. I plan on occasional touch ups and I like the rattle can solution for that too.
In a perfect world, I'd probably have used POR-15 and powder-coated everything else. This fit my budget until I win a lotto (yeah, right).
Used Rustoleum Hi Performance enamel in semi-gloss black after a thorough cleaning, degreasing, and more cleaning. Used the better part of 3 cans, recoating road-exposed areas at least twice. Paid about 6 bucks for each can.
Ended up with this:
I plan on taking lots of "prior to" regular driving images because I don't expect museum level presentations after a few months of use. I plan on occasional touch ups and I like the rattle can solution for that too.
In a perfect world, I'd probably have used POR-15 and powder-coated everything else. This fit my budget until I win a lotto (yeah, right).
Last edited by Dustup7T2; Oct 27, 2009 at 03:11 PM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
NAPA makes a very good paint...MARTIN SENOUR line...excellent spraying with no runs, drips or errors. I used their #7243 Chassis Black on the frame and #7254 Black Lacquer on brackets, etc. If you have bare metal, use NAPA's Self Etching Primer.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Satin or semi-gloss black for the frame and engine/accessory components; semi-flat black for the engine compartment surfaces and wheelwells. I see nothing wrong with using Rustoleum on the frame, if you have cleaned it well before painting. You would have to do a better job than GM did on painting the frame.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
Likes: 4,241
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Todd,
In addition to the Krylon and SEM that's been mentioned, I hear that people are happy with John Deere Blitz Black.
I still prefer the old Krylon #1613, but its getting harder and harder to find. I use the same paint on the frame (but spray it wetter so it's a little glossy, as the inner panels and firewall (but spray it dryer for less shine).
I'd experiment with a couple of tests to get the look you want. There should be some various levels of shine. Remember it was done quick and erratically at St. Louis.
Regards,
Alan
In addition to the Krylon and SEM that's been mentioned, I hear that people are happy with John Deere Blitz Black.
I still prefer the old Krylon #1613, but its getting harder and harder to find. I use the same paint on the frame (but spray it wetter so it's a little glossy, as the inner panels and firewall (but spray it dryer for less shine).
I'd experiment with a couple of tests to get the look you want. There should be some various levels of shine. Remember it was done quick and erratically at St. Louis.
Regards,
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 15
From: Confusion
Anybody use the Duplicolor semi-gloss black engine enamel with ceramic on non-engine parts? I did the pedal and brace for my Chevelle this weekend and happy with the sheen. Just wondering if anybody else uses this.......................B
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 15
From: Confusion
[QUOTE=Alan 71;1571958773]
I still prefer the old Krylon #1613, but its getting harder and harder to find.
I did a search for this Krylon, seems to be available in quantities everywhere I looked, might be different when you order it, but it is available from what I see.....................
I still prefer the old Krylon #1613, but its getting harder and harder to find.
I did a search for this Krylon, seems to be available in quantities everywhere I looked, might be different when you order it, but it is available from what I see.....................
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
Likes: 4,241
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi CL,
What I was referring to is that the paint that's available in retail outlets now is called 51613. And it's a different formula.
You're right... 1613 can be bought or ordered from industrial suppliers.
Regards,
Alan
What I was referring to is that the paint that's available in retail outlets now is called 51613. And it's a different formula.
You're right... 1613 can be bought or ordered from industrial suppliers.
Regards,
Alan
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Charleston SC
Found the link for the Krylon k01613. It looks like it is carried in there industrial line now and can be ordered at Sherwin Williams paint stores. I'm still not sure if it is the old formula or not. 
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/ma...37856&c=B37856
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/ma...37856&c=B37856
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 1
From: Quincy IL
I used this and found that it was way to glossy even for a semi gloss
There's something about Alan's photos that just looks perfect!
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 609
Likes: 1
Hi Todd,
In addition to the Krylon and SEM that's been mentioned, I hear that people are happy with John Deere Blitz Black.
I still prefer the old Krylon #1613, but its getting harder and harder to find. I use the same paint on the frame (but spray it wetter so it's a little glossy, as the inner panels and firewall (but spray it dryer for less shine).
I'd experiment with a couple of tests to get the look you want. There should be some various levels of shine. Remember it was done quick and erratically at St. Louis.
Regards,
Alan
In addition to the Krylon and SEM that's been mentioned, I hear that people are happy with John Deere Blitz Black.
I still prefer the old Krylon #1613, but its getting harder and harder to find. I use the same paint on the frame (but spray it wetter so it's a little glossy, as the inner panels and firewall (but spray it dryer for less shine).
I'd experiment with a couple of tests to get the look you want. There should be some various levels of shine. Remember it was done quick and erratically at St. Louis.
Regards,
Alan
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