1982 Corvette question

What scares me is the crossfire injection. I have read threads here that claim the people who hate the CFI are people who don't know anything about them. Then I also read a bunch of horror stories other places on the internet. I am very mechanically inclined but have never messed around with FI before be it CFI, TPI or TBI. I am just trying to make sure I do not buy something I will regret later and or loose money on it like I did with my 78. It wouldn't be a daily driver but more a nice weather weekend warrior. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Pics:


I was looking at a pewter 2000 Vert with 59K on it that needed a new windshield & a front bumper cover for $10k when I ran across this. I like the technology of the newer Vettes and the body lines/style are OK But I have always been a BIG fan and held a special place in my heart for the C3 body style.
Think of the crossfire as a an intake with two carbs that have injectors in place of jets two sensors to control the air flow and once sensor tht determines the throttle position. All done by a little computer in the battery compartment.
You can't twig it you can change the fuel flow. So long as you never try it will always run great. Touble starts when yo start trying to adjust the idle or timing. It can't really be done because the computer will always try to compensate.
So if it ever starts running rough just assume something is gone and needs to be replaced. Don't try to fix it with an adjustment.
So if that car starts and purrs like a kitten. Its a good one. If anything has been tampered with or changed to something other then what should be on there you will have issues.
Jim






I did have a high idle one year. I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor and it fixed that. EFI really is a great thing. Id jump on it.
There are a few companies that specialize in CFI maintenance and upgrades.
I did however probably wipe a cam lobe last fall, and replaced the whole shooting match with an LS1-4L60E combo this winter.
Brent.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

I did have a high idle one year. I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor and it fixed that. EFI really is a great thing. Id jump on it.
There are a few companies that specialize in CFI maintenance and upgrades.
I did however probably wipe a cam lobe last fall, and replaced the whole shooting match with an LS1-4L60E combo this winter.
Brent.
Brent
Your 82 is sweet! I read your list and wow impressive! I love those TTII's also. Think they are the best looking wheels on a C3 for sure!
Last edited by 78CO_VETTE; Mar 10, 2010 at 12:23 AM.
Looks like I would have to do my homework and become an expert on tuning the CFI. This car also has a high idle and hesitates slightly until it's warmed up and then tuns fine. So yes I am still undecided.
Brent
Your 82 is sweet! I read your list and wow impressive! I love those TTII's also. Think they are the best looking wheels on a C3 for sure!
Take off the cleaner and look at the TBI's (carbs). Each one should have a capped port (black rubber) on the rear. To the side of the capped port there should be a metal plug. They looks like a saucer, Are they there? There is a screw behind those plugs that adjust the angle of the throttle plates. If the saucer shape caps are off someone has played with it. If they are on look at the linkage on the front TBI. The linkage adjustment screw has a bead of weld on it from the factory. It needs to be grinded off to adjust the linkage. Is it in tact? Is so move to the next.
The fuel pressure between the two TBI's should be around 12 psi. The range is 9-13 psi. If its closer to 9 or drops below 9 the fuel pump is gone. If the fuel pressure is good move on.
The most likely cause is all else is fine is the gasket on the intake plate. The intake is two pieces. The upper plate that the TBI's sit on has a bunch of bolts holding it down. There is a large gasket under the plate around the parimeter. It is known to go and cause a vaccum leak. Its easy to replace and the gasket is not expensive ($40).
Try to figure it out before you buy it. Have him fix it at his expense. Or if you really want the car and intend on doing it your self knock of $2000. Its not going to cost that much but you have to factor in your time.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; Mar 10, 2010 at 08:45 AM.
When you put the key in the ignition [to test out the car], make sure the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on (not burned out). Then, when running, make sure you don't see the light coming on...which would indicate some fault with it.
If you are just going to enjoy the car as a 'driver' vehicle and not try to "bump up" the power, this should be a really nice car for you. If there is no/little rust and it all works [except for the power antenna...which you can replace or repair], you will get great mileage, a fuel injected engine, and an overdrive tranny with lockup (make sure that works, too). For $11K, that sounds like a good deal to me.
Take off the cleaner and look at the TBI's (carbs). Each one should have a capped port (black rubber) on the rear. To the side of the capped port there should be a metal plug. They looks like a saucer, Are they there? There is a screw behind those plugs that adjust the angle of the throttle plates. If the saucer shape caps are off someone has played with it. If they are on look at the linkage on the front TBI. The linkage adjustment screw has a bead of weld on it from the factory. It needs to be grinded off to adjust the linkage. Is it in tact? Is so move to the next.
The fuel pressure between the two TBI's should be around 12 psi. The range is 9-13 psi. If its closer to 9 or drops below 9 the fuel pump is gone. If the fuel pressure is good move on.
The most likely cause is all else is fine is the gasket on the intake plate. The intake is two pieces. The upper plate that the TBI's sit on has a bunch of bolts holding it down. There is a large gasket under the plate around the parimeter. It is known to go and cause a vaccum leak. Its easy to replace and the gasket is not expensive ($40).
Try to figure it out before you buy it. Have him fix it at his expense. Or if you really want the car and intend on doing it your self knock of $2000. Its not going to cost that much but you have to factor in your time.
Jim
I've had an '82 in my garage since 1996. It is what it is, a smogged up 5.7 that will turn 18 MPG in town and 26+ Hwy. All in all a nice cruiser - she makes some noise at WOT but goes no where fast..if I want fast, I drive my Z06
What has not been mentioned is this was the first year of the 700R4 tranny. The Crossfire, mated to the 700R4, produced 285 ft lb of TQ. The car can launch pretty good...again, for what she is.
The one you are looking at seems to be a very nice, original car. Look it over well. Has she been molested in any way. Is that origianl paint? Looks very nice, too nice to be original as there is no fade on the front/rear bumpers for a 28 year old car where clear-coat was new. The price is right for the miles an apparent condition but just ask a lot of questions. BTW, she will idle high at first and then settle down, typical for a crossfire.
I've had an '82 in my garage since 1996. It is what it is, a smogged up 5.7 that will turn 18 MPG in town and 26+ Hwy. All in all a nice cruiser - she makes some noise at WOT but goes no where fast..if I want fast, I drive my Z06
What has not been mentioned is this was the first year of the 700R4 tranny. The Crossfire, mated to the 700R4, produced 285 ft lb of TQ. The car can launch pretty good...again, for what she is.
2Tone I know what you mean. If the 82 was as fast as it looked it would be a rocket. Unfortunately it is what its. Its fast enough though. No comparison to modern technology. Regardless its fun to drive.
Jim
Today you see V6's pushing out close to 300HP. IMO, my 200HP 27 year old Vette does just fine and is a heck of a lotta fun to drive the missus around in!...
Eek I meant 28 year old! My old gal had a birthday!!!
Last edited by TexasYankee; Mar 11, 2010 at 02:09 PM. Reason: oops
I see a number of late model C3 owners claiming they get this kind of mileage yet my 79 only gets about 15 MPG on the highway and thats with the larger Canadian gallon. It runs well and has a professionally rebuilt motor, I know the 3.70 gears and lack of an overdrive trans make a lot of difference, but surely not that much?

I am kind of torn between two cars right now. Yes the black 82 is beautiful and low mi all original but I just cannot seem to get past the crossfire and only 200hp. The other one I am looking at it a 1980 with 50K original miles. It has brand new paint blue/blue updated suspension componets full leather int, 4 speed with a 425hp 383 stroker with 5K. Yeah call me crazy but some about that hp is a big + to me not to mention 4 spped with no computer.

Last edited by Priya; Mar 11, 2010 at 03:35 PM.
You have only (2)injectors to worry about versus (8) on the TPI.
Had a friend who ran a 5.7L TPI and one of the injectors was faulty & shot a bunch of gas in the cylinder which broke the connecting rod as the piston was trying to compress liquid instead of gas.
CFI's are a wet system & any flooding would not shoot it directly into the cylinder but pool in the CFI manifold causing the engine not to start. Better that than a broken rod.
CFI's only have the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor), MAP (Manifold Absolute Sensor), (2)IAC (Idle Air Control Valves), TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), O2 (Oxygen Sensor), Engine Knock Sensor, VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) & the ECM (Engine Control Module)...less sensors than the TPI setup.
Synchronizing the dual TBI's only necessary if the factory setting was changed and can easily be adjusted with a water manometer or now they have digital manometers in addition to an inexpensive TBI plug to block the idle air pass to the IAC valve.
The Check Engine Light (CEL as some call it) gives the ECM trouble codes if any of the sensors are bad or you can just get an OBD1 ALDL diagnostic cable with a USB interface to plug into a laptop running Win98/2000/XP ( http://aldlcable.com/ ) using the WINALDL software ( http://winaldl.joby.se/ ) to actually see the sensor voltages and whether running in open or closed loop.
Once you get the hang of it, it's a snap.
Upgrade options are the faster GM ECM 1227747 which can be modified to accept the stock ECM harness with a HAM (Harness Adapter Module) and putting in a electronically erasable/flashable 27FS512 chip or the Moates Ostrich chip emulator to tune on the fly.
Bigger 52mm TBI bases are available and with the setup it will run a 383stroker.
If the car starts up and runs/drives without any problems, you've got a winner & I would buy the Corvette which is low mileage, nice original paint & interior.
C3's increase in value over time.
If you notice later models, the seats are below the rocker panel which is a real pain to get in & out.
The C1-C3's seats are mounted higher up as the floor is higher than the C4-C6 which makes for easier access.
What are you waiting for ?
Last edited by 82CorvetteCE; Mar 11, 2010 at 04:44 PM.
The pics up top look beautiful!!
I pulled my CFI manifold off a few times, even swapped the top cover over (with TBs still attached) to a ported CFI manifold without a hiccup in TB operational performance.
I wouldn't be afraid of the CFI system.





















