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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 79 vette head
friday- changed the battery for about 8 hours- battery had 13.18 volts
sunday- battery had 13.00 volts
wed- battery had 12.76 volts

i thinks me have a draw???????
Good luck on finding it. I have a constant draw on mine that will kill the battery in 5 days. The dash is apart now because I'm rebuilding the HVAC system and replacing the heater core. Once that's done, I plan to chase down the draw, one fuse at a time.

And then take some Percocet for the back pain from being under the dash...
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 10:59 AM
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RE: friday- changed the battery for about 8 hours- battery had 13.18 volts
sunday- battery had 13.00 volts
wed- battery had 12.76 volts

That's normal. Batteries have a higher 'surface" voltage after charging which drops down to normal (about 12.7 depending on chemistry) for a fully charged battery.

That said, glove box light, aftermarket radio or alarm and alternator (internal regulator) are common draws.

Use ma meter to measure their draw, if any.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 12:24 PM
  #23  
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Also check the visor vanity light. Mine was on/off intermittantly and difficult to find.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 12:57 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by model12
also check the visor vanity light. Mine was on/off intermittantly and difficult to find.
no vanity light. So it cant be that
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #25  
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so i checked the battery today and it had 12.70 volts. i tried to bring it to my mechanic and it wouldn't start. cranks but doesnt run....urghhhh
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #26  
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I just bought a red-top Optima. That think has some cranking power! I feel like I can crank it all day and not run out...
I'm not sure how well it will keep working, might be my alt that's the problem
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #27  
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It used to matter, a lot. But there has been a big consolidation of manufacturing for batteries and they, like everything else are all built to be cheap.
I have a 10 year old Die Hard, made before Exide took over production and it still kicks with amazing power. Keep a battery tender on any battery and it will last awhile.
All that said, Optimas are more expensive and have no better warranty than a lead-acid battery. Unless you are auto-crossing, get the "premium" label of whatever brand you decide to purchase.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #28  
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You might want to install a battery disconnect...rather than change the battery. That also provides you with a rudimentary anti-theft device and a way to easily cut voltage to the car when you work on it.

P.S. Most 'bad' batteries will charge-up to a decent voltage. But they won't hold that charge for very long and they won't provide adequate current to start the engine. Providing [and accepting] high current flow is the main purpose of a good 12 volt battery.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 01:34 PM
  #29  
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get you the biggest baddest CCA battery you can find, great for lasting longer in the winter, cranking over a hot engine, and recovery from leaving lights on or a door open.
all batteries die a little each year and don't put out what they did the year before, so get you the biggest and it will last you the longest.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 07:35 PM
  #30  
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new dizzy coming on wenesday. battery still holing today @12.5 volts
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 01:07 AM
  #31  
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Voltage is really not as responsible for starting your car as the amperage, referred to as cold crank amps (CCA), but is better explained but the relatioship V=IR where V is voltage, I is current (amps) and R is resistance. As you can see good voltage does not necessarily mean that you have enough current to start the car. My battery has 790 CCA and is, as you may have, a Die Hard Gold. As far as voltage anywhere in the 12V-14V range is optimal.

This sucks, but is the best way I have found to find your draw if you have one. Put a voltmeter on the battery and start pulling fuses one by one until there is a change. Then you have isolated the circuit. Plug the fuse back in and start disconnecting things on that circuit until you see a change on the voltmeter. Then you have identified your drain. For example, you may see a change on your multimeter after pulling the dash lights fuse. Then, after putting the fuse back in you find that after pulling one of the bulbs your drain goes away. Could be a bad socket, could be a wire short, but at least you know where it is so you can figure out how to fix it.

Problem is those little glass fuses are a PITA to get in and out, at least in my fuse block. Get some extras...

Nice avatar!
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:59 AM
  #32  
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When I first got my vette running i bought one of the Wal-mart brand batteries (I was on a budget). it worked OK for about 1yr then wouldnt hold a charge. I installed a battery disconnect but it still drained. I stepped up to an optima red-top. Worked OK for about 3 years.. Now have a Sears Die Hard Gold.. Been OK for the past 3 years and cranks like a *****.. even after sitting all winter.. it was the best $$:performance item ive bought for the vette.

Stu
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:18 AM
  #33  
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For those of you living in Canada this is a nice sturdy battery from Canadian Tire Corporation (CTC). Cold cranking amps are 875 (0*F), cranking amps are 1,050 (32*F), and reserve capacity is 125 minutes. Exide is the supplier to CTC.

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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #34  
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Any battery can go dead in 1 year or 1 month for that matter. This is the reason for a warranty.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 03:34 PM
  #35  
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installed my new MSD dizzy today and the car started right up.....
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