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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #21  
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Hi Glenn,
If you know how to post them I'll e-mail you what I have.

Last edited by daxmann; Jul 2, 2010 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by daxmann
Hi Glenn,
If you know how to post them I'll e-mail you what I have.
Go to photobucket.com and open a free account.
After your done, browse for the pics on your PC, pick & download the files. Once downloaded click on and copy the IMG code, mine does this automatically when I move the cursor over the code list below each image, and paste the code in your thread or post. You’re done.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:33 AM
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Lets see if this works. Thanks Glenn.




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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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When you get around to it, you will want to clean up the valve covers and swap them to the correct sides. Oil fill (existing cap is wrong) goes on the left side; crossed flags on the right.

Can you get the original distributor, ignition shielding, and air cleaner from the seller?


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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #25  
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First, you probably want to replace the rubber fuel line with a correct steel one.

I can't tell if that is an original 'snowflake' intake manifold or not. If it's not, that might explain the non oem air cleaner. A stock air cleaner provides filtered air to the valve cover on the passenger side - then you can get ride of that breather. I'm guessing that it's an aftermarket intake manifold and there's not enough clearance for a stock air cleaner.

The pad show a 'CGZ' suffix that would be correct for a LT1, I'm not an expert, but in my opinion, I don't think it looks very good. But I hope I'm wrong.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 12:52 PM
  #26  
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Pull the air cleaner. Is there a Holly carb there?
I don't see a vacuum line coming from the intake manifold for the headlights or wiper door to work.
Looks like a new brake booster & master cylinder.
Did you get any paper work or original documentation with the car? That's always a nice little bonus.
I noticed some rust under the weather strip extension above the trim tag. I hope it's only surface or there could be bigger issues with the bird cage.
I'm not ragging the car, just some things you'll want to address.
Post more pics of the whole car for us.
Glenn
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 01:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by daxmann
Lets see if this works. Thanks Glenn.
I can't see the broach marks too well in this photo, but i'm not too happy with the way these numbers look, unless i'm DRUNK .... they are extreemly crooked .........seems like everything is straight untill you get to the part of the numbers that matter ......hoping thats not the story behind the guy who sold it to you ( crooked ) !!! I really hope that someone actually got what they thought they were getting & that the seller didnt scam anyone.

Is there any other documentation that came with the purchase ?

ZIXXXPACKER

Last edited by 427SIXPACK; Jul 2, 2010 at 01:07 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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Here's a crop and blowup of the suffix. I don't think it looks very good.

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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That CGZ has a offset 'C', could not be that far off if stamped/hammered as part of a gang stamp..
don't see broach marks where the paint is rubbed off..
paint in the pad means the engine was most likely out/swapped/repainted/hiding broach marks ( or hiding lack of broach marks)

vacumm lines plugged.

previous owner may or may not know for sure what it is either.. everything could have been done several owners ago.. why do we always assume that the last owner was the defrauder and that he is the expert and might be misleading the new buyer? 99% of people don't know what to look for in authenticating a LT1. most people buy these cars on the evidence on the shifter console horsepower tag and the CGZ code..no matter how it is stamped. they don't know what typical factory production is...

to the OP: what is the casting date code on your engine block?.. it's on your bellhousing flange, behind your distributor.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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Hi,
I believe the factory sent out cars with engines that had all kinds of odd stamps and grind outs.
I'd look for other clues to the car being an LT-! and want to see really good pictures or see the pad in person.
Regards,
Alan

There's a thread on the NCRS Board right now about a pad with a miss-used 0 and O. Someone posted a picture of a pad VERY close in sequence to the pad in question and it had the same 0/O situation.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi,
I believe the factory sent out cars with engines that had all kinds of odd stamps and grind outs.
I'd look for other clues to the car being an LT-! and want to see really good pictures or see the pad in person.
Regards,
Alan

There's a thread on the NCRS Board right now about a pad with a miss-used 0 and O. Someone posted a picture of a pad VERY close in sequence to the pad in question and it had the same 0/O situation.
I CONCUR............BUT............ the numbers should not be crooked......
they should all be on a straight line as they were stamped together all at once !!!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 427SIXPACK
I CONCUR............BUT............ the numbers should not be crooked......
they should all be on a straight line as they were stamped together all at once !!!
That would be my concern also, and not just 'crooked' - I'm looking at the spacing between the 'C' and the '0' on it's left.

The 'C' and the 'Z' just seem to stand out. Everything else looks like it is inline, and with consistent spacing. But the 'C' definately, and the 'Z' probably seem inconsistent.

The only thing I can think is that maybe for some season the group stamp was weak, or someother way wrong, and the 'C', and maybe 'Z' were individually stamped. I've tried to look and see if I could find a weak strike behind the 'C' but I can't see anything.

I think Alan is correct, and the car needs to be looked at as a whole. I looked at other posts from the OP, and it looks like that might be an uphill battle.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:39 PM
  #33  
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I just find it a litte strange, how the only important part of that stamp is the C-G-Z & thats the only part thats crooked, incorrectly spaced, & suspect...........in my opinion..............just my .02
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #34  
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Hi 427,
I believe that on occasion when the factory had reason to change a stamp pad the individual stamps weren't necessarily in a gang holder.
I'm thinking of some of the pad pictures in Al G's book.
Regards,
Alan

How come pad questions rarely involve 350/270 engines?
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi 427,
I believe that on occasion when the factory had reason to change a stamp pad the individual stamps weren't necessarily in a gang holder.
I'm thinking of some of the pad pictures in Al G's book.
Regards,
Alan

How come pad questions rarely involve 350/270 engines?
If it wasn't on a LT1 a Tri-Power car or anything else that cammands a lot more money, it wouldnt bother me as much. But on a big dollar, high end collectible car, that your paying in many cases 2 x's more then another car because of what it's supposed to be, I would NOT be happy with that stamp on the pad. The only exception for me would be with a lot of heavy documentation, BOS, POP tank sticker & Complete owner history that can be verified etc...........otherwise I have to go through this same thing when i try to sell my car to someone else & others are suspect just like now. Nooone wants a $50,000 mistake or even a $25,000 mistake for that matter........... !!

Curious what the dollar figure is we are talking about on this particular car in question ?

Last edited by 427SIXPACK; Jul 3, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:46 AM
  #36  
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VIN: 1Z37L6S431306

and this number out off the engine it's written GM 8970010

is there any more number can I get ? where could I found them ?
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:55 AM
  #37  
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Hi 427,
I agree with your comments; that's why I said in my post I'd want to look for 'clues' beyond the stamp pad and stamped information.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #38  
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Hi a-a,
You've found the VIN (build sequence number) and the casting number for the cylinder case.
The stamped numbers on the pad in front of the right side cylinder head will begin to tell about your car's engine's originality. The pad is shown in Easy Mike's post.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 12:06 PM
  #39  
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could you explain for me by providing picture please.
I am not expert in such these numbers.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 12:29 PM
  #40  
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I found these numbers

346249
8 6 4 2
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