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The drivers door panel on my 71 vert has a couple of small cracks. Has anyone had any luck in doing repairs on a 40 year old panel? If I replace it, how well do the reproduction panels match? Do I need to do both? I am heading towards NCRS. still need to address some minor issues. Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks,
Mark
If the cracks are small and don't get flexed under everyday usage, then you can likely fix them adequately with the following approach:
Cut away any loose edges on the crack; use a Q-tip and some solvent (lacquer thinner, alcohol, etc.) to clean out the sub-surface under the crack...so that a filler will stick; mask off outside the edges of the crack; use polyester body filler to fill the area of the crack up to the same level as the rest of the [good] portion of the panel; before the filler is too hard (it must be firmed up), use a toothpick or other instrument to scribe in some 'graining' similar to the rest of the panel; let harden, then remove masking tape and use some fine steel wool to buff the surface and get it to have similar appearance to the rest of the panel. Finally, you can get some matching vinyl dye (I highly recommend SEM ColorCoat mixed to your interior GM code) to blend over the repair...OR...to recolor the entire panel.
IMO, repairing an original panel is preferable to replacing it. But that's just my .02....
If the cracks are small and don't get flexed under everyday usage, then you can likely fix them adequately with the following approach:
Cut away any loose edges on the crack; use a Q-tip and some solvent (lacquer thinner, alcohol, etc.) to clean out the sub-surface under the crack...so that a filler will stick; mask off outside the edges of the crack; use polyester body filler to fill the area of the crack up to the same level as the rest of the [good] portion of the panel; before the filler is too hard (it must be firmed up), use a toothpick or other instrument to scribe in some 'graining' similar to the rest of the panel; let harden, then remove masking tape and use some fine steel wool to buff the surface and get it to have similar appearance to the rest of the panel. Finally, you can get some matching vinyl dye (I highly recommend SEM ColorCoat mixed to your interior GM code) to blend over the repair...OR...to recolor the entire panel.
IMO, repairing an original panel is preferable to replacing it. But that's just my .02....
Thanks from me too! I am really glad you posted that!
Hi Mark,
You asked about the reproductions.
They're very easy to spot because the backing is abs, not fiberboard as the originals.
Also, the 'comfort-weave' graining in the insert is very indistinct compared to how the originals were molded.
This is why undamaged originals, and true NOS panels, are so valuable.
I've been looking for a driver's side panel for my 71 I can afford for years.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Mark,
You asked about the reproductions.
They're very easy to spot because the backing is abs, not fiberboard as the originals.
Also, the 'comfort-weave' graining in the insert is very indistinct compared to how the originals were molded.
This is why undamaged originals, and true NOS panels, are so valuable.
I've been looking for a driver's side panel for my 71 I can afford for years.
Regards,
Alan
I hear some are offering panels with fiberboard backing. Think one may be Al Knoch. I don't know how they compare so far as grain goes.
Hi bb,
I've looked a the Knock panels and the grain in the door 'skin' is still a problem for me.
Also, each time I've checked only a pair can be bought at around $800.
Thanks for the heads-up though!
Regards,
Alan