I have ordered the NCRS judging manual and the Assembly manual, but I would like to get some painting done while I'm waiting. To that end would someone be kind enough to look in their judging manual for the correct finish on the following:

69 L36, M20, C60, N40, K19

AC comp mounting brackets and adjusting strap
Water pump pulley
Crankshaft pulley
PS pump pulley
PS pump and reservoir
PS pump mounting backets
Alternater mounting brackets and adjusting strap
AIR pump mounting bracket and adjusting strap
AIR pulley
Fan blade
Upper control arms (semi-gloss, gloss?Shaft ,bushings and ball joint painted?)
Lower control arms.
Brake calipers.
Steering linkage including box, pitman are and idler arm

I have 67 manuals and suspect most are the same, but I'd hate to find a difference afterwards.

Thanks for the help.

Steve

 

You are opening the proverbial "can of worms" here. You will get lots of advice: some good, some not so good, about what paints to use, what 'sheens' to have on what parts, etc. and the only thing that counts is the NCRS Judging Manual, if you are wanting to get it judged.

 

Yes, That's why I asked if someone would have a look in their judging manual. Car will probably never be judged, but it's how I like to do them.

Been around the block with this kind of stuff before (my 442. I don't get too hung up on trying to get the exact % sheen, knowing that many parts were painted in different places by different suppliers and it's impossible to know with any certainty how any one car came out. You'll notice that the NCRS judging manuals don't get very specific about sheen. Knowing gloss vs semi-gloss vs plating (type) vs raw is really all I'm after.

Steve

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Why not wait for the judging guide to arrive? I would think almost everything you list probably shows vestiges of the old, original paint. You will also find some of what you list may have had no paint when new.

 

Time (and space) is of the essence. I have piles and piles of pieces prepped and ready for finishing. When the manuals arrive so will about $3000 in other parts which will make me very busy again. It would be most efficient if I could be ready for their arrival.

Lots of pieces on an eastern car with nothing but rust and it's very hard to tell semi-gloss black from gloss black after 42 years.

But from the looks of things I may be waiting until they arrive.

Steve

 

I can tell you what I've done. I wanted my car to "look" like factory original, but I didn't want to spend "an arm and a leg" and I didn't want bare metal parts or they would just turn to rust again. So, I coated everything (not 'appropriate', if you get judged by NCRS) to keep it looking good, but used readily available paints/coatings to keep it affordable. In order to accomplish that, I have about 25 different cans of spray paint/coatings for putting proper color on just about everything on the car as follows:

semi-flat (or satin) black - engine compartment surfaces, interior metal trim work, rocker panel/strip [as required by year], wheel wells.

semi-gloss black - engine components that are painted black (air cleaner housing, fan blades, master cylinder (if supposed to be painted), power steering components, some accessory brackets, frame metal, etc.

cast iron color - stock exhaust manifolds (Seymour 'cast blast' Hi-Temp manifold paint), steering box casting, steering rods, front torsion bar, steering knuckles and other cast iron parts.

aluminum - alternator housing (VHT aluminum hi-temp paint/baked), steering box top plate, stamped wheel dust cover plates (costly to re-plate them properly), exhaust system (VHT hi-temp paint), other aluminum components that were subject to oxidizing.

stainless steel - various bare steel components painted with VHT stainless steel paint and baked for durability.

Many bare nuts/bolts/washers were bare steel from factory. After cleaning and wire brushing them to get clean, I chose to coat them with "clear" engine enamel to keep them from rusting. Some metal fastener items were phosphate coated, so I painted them with cast-iron colored paint (ie, hood latch hardware, etc.). Not exactly the correct color or sheen, but better than sending a bunch of stuff out to a plater to get "correct".

There is just way too many items that are very specific for a Forum thread like this to detail info on all C3 parts...not to mention that each year has its specific differences/nuances. I hope this is of some help to you, but you really need to go through the manual and check the detail on everything you want to do. That is no small task, if you want to 'batch' parts of the same color--and still be able to get them back to the right components after paint. Good luck with your project.

 

No disrespect, but "efficient Corvette restoration" may be an oxymoron.

Good luck.

 

7T1vette is right, this is one big can of worms. If you refinish some of your stuff on advice from the forum members and it turns out to be wrong, you'll have lots of aggravating rework to do. You would be best off to wait for the judging manual to arrive before starting any of the refinishing work. The manual IS thorough to an extreme. I was astounded at the things I learned from mine when I was getting my 69 ready for judging last year. BTW, if you don't intend to get the car judged, why go to all the trouble to exactly duplicate finishes and get it compliant with the judging manuals? If you intend it to be a driver, you'll have more fun with it if you aren't always worrying about damaging the state of the cars condition. My car is numbers matching and very original. I feel more like the curator of a museum than an owner/operator of a really neat old car. I have a 69 Mustang convertible that I drive all the time because, while it is a very nice car too and has won it's share of hardware in the Mustang world, it isn't a concours quality restoration. I have even taken that one to the drag strip. That's something I'd never do with my Vette. Bottom line is, trailer queens suck.

 

I'm new to the forum and as such unfamiliar with the degree of detail required in a question. I'll rephrase.

Would someone with a 1969 NCRS judging manual in their possession be kind enough to look up the aforementioned parts and provide me with the info on the correct finish?


No can of worms. I trust that any fellow enthusiast with a manual also realizes the importance of the info and would take adequate care in reading and noting the various finishes.

Why do it? It's the way I like to do things. The car is having the rusted frame replaced. Who in their right mind would transfer all the dirty, rusty and questionable parts over to the replacement without going through them and refinishing them. Every component gets rebuilt and refinished. It doesn't cost any more to finish them according to the judging manual than it does to spray them with your favourite color of Krylon paint.

My cars get driven, but not in the rain, or snow or salty roads. They maybe see 1000 miles a year. By taking a little extra time and money when refinishing (epoxy primer and urethane paints) these cars will look just as good 10 years from now. If we decide to bring the paint and interior up to top flight standard someday, maybe it will be judged. At that point at least the bottom and under hood are already done.

Steve