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Hi,
I would like to add a luggage rack to my 75 blue convertible (has white soft top and black leather interior). I think the shiny trim will add to the soft rear end. I can't figure out which is correct for my car, ecklers, davies, etc. all list 8 and six hole configs and chrome or stainless but no help on which type of car they fit. I am guessing one is for coupes and the other is for convertibles, but don't know if I should be going stainless over chrome (cost is similar). Thanks for any advice.
If you care that the one you buy looks the same as the [dealer only option] original units, get the chrome type with 6 screw mounts. Since NCRS doesn't recognize them as "original equipment" anyway [to them, it's only 'original' if it came from the factory], then the stainless steel unit with 8 screw mounts would be the more logical choice (better support and won't rust). If you do go with the 6 screw version, throw the 6 chromed screws in the garbage and go buy some identical stainless steel screws so that they won't rust. (Just a suggestion...)
Chevrolet never factory installed a luggage rack on any Corvette, prior to 1977.
Body style has nothing to do with what rack is used.
68-76 luggage racks were only available as a dealer installed option. The 77 rack was available factory or dealer installed, and came with pins on the rack, so a T-top carrier could be attached to them.
The 68-76 racks were chrome and had 6 legs. The 77 rack used 8 legs, with the extra 2 legs probably added to better support the rack, when tops are being carried on it.
A chrome 6 leg chrome rack is what would have originally been available for your 75.
Thanks guys. I'll get the chrome 6-mount version for originality sake. The stainless screws is a great suggestion. I have two more questions please:
1. All kits indicate that they come with install instructions, will this include some kind of large template to ensure I don't drill holes in the wrong place?
2. Since you did menion NCRS - my car is a low-mile completely original car in excellent condition. I was hoping to get some kind of recognition from NCRS next year. Will adding the rack make me lose points? I am not a fanatic, but a ribbon, certificate or something would be nice to have.
2. Since you did menion NCRS - my car is a low-mile completely original car in excellent condition. I was hoping to get some kind of recognition from NCRS next year. Will adding the rack make me lose points? I am not a fanatic, but a ribbon, certificate or something would be nice to have.
Thanks again.
I guess you're not an NCRS member. Best join up and learn before you start modifying your car if you're serious about an award. It's not a casual, one time event if you're looking for the top levels of recognition.
A luggage rack will cost a minor (about 6 points) deduction, but if your car truly is unrestored untouched original it may be eligible for the Bowtie category.
You may want to attend this meet to learn what it's all about
Thanks guys. I'll get the chrome 6-mount version for originality sake. The stainless screws is a great suggestion. I have two more questions please:
1. All kits indicate that they come with install instructions, will this include some kind of large template to ensure I don't drill holes in the wrong place?
2. Since you did menion NCRS - my car is a low-mile completely original car in excellent condition. I was hoping to get some kind of recognition from NCRS next year. Will adding the rack make me lose points? I am not a fanatic, but a ribbon, certificate or something would be nice to have.
Thanks again.
1) They don't come with a template, that I'm aware of. Usually it's just a sheet with the measurements as to where the holes go.
2) A luggage rack will get a deduct from the NCRS. It is a minor deduct though, something like one point off for each of the 6 none original holes drilled in the body. That's out of a possible 4,500 total points available.
Mike's right about the NCRS. If you don't belong, join. Visit a meet and see what the judging is all about. Order both the 1975 Judging Manual and the the NCRS Judging Reference Manual. The Judging Manual will tell you what the judges are looking for in regards to the originality of your car, and the Reference Manual will explain NCRS awards and general judging procedures.
This way you will know what is looked for, how it's looked for and what is expected of your car.
I have a original dealer installed carrier on my car . a, 74 vert
I hate it. drill those holes your are screwed.
They are nearly impossible to make "GO AWAY" for ever , ,it seems that age makes the fill in reappear at somepoint.
If you have a "NICE" car don't do it. You'll regret it....the next person can't get rid of it without painting the car.
Its like a tat , once you got it ,its for life.
My advise to you is the same I'd give about marriage .
Assemble the rack (just the 'grid'...not the supports) and lay it out on a flat floor with a piece of heavy paper under it. Push a screw through each mounting hole to put a mark into the paper. Now, draw a line on the inside of the two rungs that the gas cap has to fit within. Draw a rough outline of the entire rack on the paper. Remove the rack and draw a long straight horizontal line through the mounting screw marks at the rear (car position) of the rack.
Now, you have a template and you can position it appropriately to fit around the gas cap, be placed fore/aft where you want it, and position it squarely from the joint at the bumper.
OK, looks like I need to learn more about NCRS. You've all done a pretty good job of convincing me to think harder about getting the rack. I had a 72 coupe before and my 75 rear end just doesn't look as good - so I thought adding the rack might help. Thanks again for the advice.
I don't like the racks and wouldn't have one on my car, but I also don't use it as a daily driver like many did back in the day. That makes a difference in utility.
I'd be afraid that if the rack was mounted incorrectly, I'd never be able to open the gas door...that would really suck! And as already said...once done...it's forever!
I'd be afraid that if the rack was mounted incorrectly, I'd never be able to open the gas door...that would really suck! And as already said...once done...it's forever!
The trick there is keeping the gas door open as you position the rack to ensure it doesn't touch. Put wide masking tape on the paint under each post and trace around each one with a pencil.
Remove the rack, drill the centre of each hole, remove the tape and install the well plugs. Voilà, or 'Walla' as you guys in the US say.