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I just bought a restored 68 vert and one of the things tha needs attention is the front driver side headlight. The bucket does not ascend 100%. The bucket rises and locks into place, however is 1" shorter than the passenger side. I am in the process of using an AIM, however in searching previous treads on the 68 headlight topic, I saw that Easy Mike stated ta Chevy actually had 3 different versions which whereof different sizes. I'm now wondering if the PO replaced the headlight with one of the smaller buckets - have to run out to the garage and measure. Anyway, if someone can share a page from their AIM, or offer personal experience with a similar issues, I'd appreciate it. BTW, nothing seems to be booking the bucket Thanks!
Hi L,
I believe the headlight door change had to do with the door's size only. About 1/4" difference in each version. You'd see a gap between the door and the fiberglass surround in the closed position.
From your brief description it sounds to me like you have an "open stop" adjustment problem. Do you have the right AIM pages?
At first it seems like you do, but then it doesn't?
Regards,
Alan
I agree with Alan.
Lupigiato73 this could be a combination of the drivers side being a little low and the passenger side being a little high.
Also , how are you measuring the difference ,where from ?
Hi L,
I believe the headlight door change had to do with the door's size only. About 1/4" difference in each version. You'd see a gap between the door and the fiberglass surround in the closed position.
From your brief description it sounds to me like you have an "open stop" adjustment problem. Do you have the right AIM pages?
At first it seems like you do, but then it doesn't?
Regards,
Alan
The size of the door, just had to do with the dimensions of the door, and it's opening in the top fender surround panel. The early 68 doors were smaller than later doors. If you had later doors in an early top surround panel, they might bind, but you would be able to see where they were hitting.
Your problem is more likely a stop adjustment, or maybe the adjustment of the connector on the end of the vacuum actuator.
You may want to check the condition of the metal reinforcement under the top surround panel, between the headlight openings and the hood opening too. If this is rotted out, it will cause the surround panel to sag, effecting the operation of the headlights.
Hi L,
I believe the headlight door change had to do with the door's size only. About 1/4" difference in each version. You'd see a gap between the door and the fiberglass surround in the closed position.
From your brief description it sounds to me like you have an "open stop" adjustment problem. Do you have the right AIM pages?
At first it seems like you do, but then it doesn't?
Regards,
Alan
Thanks for the feedback. Here are some photos showing the lights up. It seems I have a "lazy eye" on the drivers side. When the buskets are down - as you saw in the delivery photo, there is a larger gap between the lid and the frame which is leading me to believe this is the smaller bucket... Anyway, here are the images of the lights up..
Hi L,
I believe the headlight door change had to do with the door's size only. About 1/4" difference in each version. You'd see a gap between the door and the fiberglass surround in the closed position.
From your brief description it sounds to me like you have an "open stop" adjustment problem. Do you have the right AIM pages?
At first it seems like you do, but then it doesn't?
Regards,
Alan
Alan, I just noticed one of many important type-O's in my initial post. I presently do not have an AIM. the word "using" should be replaced with "buying" - {darn iPad auto-spell correct}. I do not have an AIM for the 68 yet and is why I was hoping someone might be able to help me while I wait for it to arrive next week. Makes sense that the PO may have installed the smaller "doored" light and is why the gap looks large. The open-stop goes all the way to the top - no obstruction preventing it from reaching that "locked" position. This is why I wondered if the smaller door also had a smaller bucket. Driving me nuts
Hi Lupigiato73
When the headlights are close, is the spaces between the door panel to the fiberglass are the same as the other door?, if yes you have the correct size, but maybe the PO change the housing support to 74-82 model so you need to put spacers in front screws and realign the door housing.
Avner
I can tell you the headlights are in the locked position. We worked on tis for quite a time yesterday. The linkage is all working and it is in the locked position for sure. I did adjust the lower setting as the door was not shutting all the way. It opens and is in the locked position but definitly not up all the way as you can see. We disconnected the actuater to see if that changed anything, no it did not. We might be able to shim up the front but it would take quite a lot of shim and then I doubt we would have enough adjustment to lower the door all the way flush.
I can tell you the headlights are in the locked position. We worked on tis for quite a time yesterday. The linkage is all working and it is in the locked position for sure. I did adjust the lower setting as the door was not shutting all the way. It opens and is in the locked position but definitly not up all the way as you can see. We disconnected the actuater to see if that changed anything, no it did not. We might be able to shim up the front but it would take quite a lot of shim and then I doubt we would have enough adjustment to lower the door all the way flush.
Great input. Gordon,if you disconnect the limit arm and the linkage can you get the door to go up any further ?
On this particular car there is no upper limit adjuster on the one side and on the other side it is installed 180 degrees out so it is not bumping into anything. Just hanging in the breeze. We will fix this later but it has no bearing on the upper limit of the headlight. I did not realize there was different headlight assemblies. I could take both sets of linkages and see if they are the same next time i am working on the car but this makes the most sense of anything.
I have seen the adjustment procedure but this was a few years ago. I need to refresh myself on this and look at all the adjustments again. Mine work perfect and have for years but t his car is a bunch of different parts so we do not know exactly what years some of these parts are from.
Here's the procedure. The reason I bring up the in and out adjustment is I had one once that was similar and I just loosened all the attaching bolts and nuts to see if it would sorta self align,when I loosened the in and out the foot popped,so it must have had the mechanism in a bind. Something is obviously wrong with this one,when you find it (and I'm confident you will)it will probably be one of those "well I'll be a SOB" moments ,probably something simple. Good Luck
Hi,
I'm thinking Avner may have the clue.
Using a 74 up frame would affect both the open and closed alignment because the frame is 'tipped' compared to the 68-73 frame.
Maybe?
I think you can shim the 74+ frame to make it work on 68-73 cars.
Regards,
Alan
I just bought a restored 68 vert and one of the things tha needs attention is the front driver side headlight. The bucket does not ascend 100%. The bucket rises and locks into place, however is 1" shorter than the passenger side. I am in the process of using an AIM, however in searching previous treads on the 68 headlight topic, I saw that Easy Mike stated ta Chevy actually had 3 different versions which whereof different sizes. I'm now wondering if the PO replaced the headlight with one of the smaller buckets - have to run out to the garage and measure. Anyway, if someone can share a page from their AIM, or offer personal experience with a similar issues, I'd appreciate it. BTW, nothing seems to be booking the bucket Thanks!
All you have to do is crawl under the nose directly under the headlight. With the headlight you will be able to manually push it open without hurting anything. There is a rod that can be lengthed or shortened to achieve the proper setting. I can tell my your pictures yours is not long enough to achieve full open position. Dave
Lupigiato73, In your second photo, it sure looks to me like the back of the housing is hitting the surround and preventing the assembly from coming up all the way.
Lupigiato73, In your second photo, it sure looks to me like the back of the housing is hitting the surround and preventing the assembly from coming up all the way.
You are correct. Not sure what the adjustment can be for that, but all other mechanics below are working correctly. Im at a loss of how to correct unless I bring it to a Corvette expert shop to examine and fix.
Man, this is an old thread which still has no solution???
I suggest that you remove the lamp bezels from both headlamp buckets and watch the operation of the mechanism on each side until you see what behaves differently. I would suppose that there is something bent/broken/missing on the driver's side mechanism; or the adjustment 'stop' for the UP position is badly misadjusted. You may also have one of the d/s side spindles that is fractured/broken so that the system is not actuating properly.
But, looking/assessing the behavior of the bucket mechanisms would be MY first step.