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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:38 PM
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Default Guage console paint

Since i have the center gauge cluster out for a radio redo, i will replace all the bulbs, see if i can get the clock going again or just replace it with something that works.

What are you guys using for the console paint by the gauges? Might as well redo the shifter console while its out also.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:43 PM
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Hi m75,
Lot's of threads about the paint and various methods to use.
People seem to like Krylon #1613, SEMS semi-flat black, and John Deere Blitz black.
Takes a bit of effort, but well worth it!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:26 AM
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Krylon #1613 remains my all time favorite, but you have to purchase it through an industrial coatings outlet.


Last edited by Easy Mike; Jan 30, 2012 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:33 AM
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Hey 75, looks like we're doing the same thing to the same year.

I used SEM Flat Black Trim... Supposed to be for exterior trim, but it turned out great, I think.




Far better than the old one in the scratched up bezel.



What radio are your planning? Retrosound was my choice.

Let me know if you can get that clock going again. I've got the same problem.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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Check all the gauges, lights, radio out before you make final installation. If you have a bad bulb/socket or electrical problem, you want to know it before you get it all reassembled.

Satin black or semi-flat black paint. DO NOT use flat black or semi-gloss black for the interior trim.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:43 PM
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John Deere Blitz Black
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:25 PM
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Thanks for the paint input, have some SEM 39143 trim paint, will have to check it out before i paint.

My gauge cluster bezel was close to stock so i traded with a friend who wanted stock and i took his modded one and opened it up some more.
I had an old audiovox cassette radio which was acting up. The new one is a XD1222 with cd player, kind of a low end radio but will go with it.

Stroh, if you are like me i didn't take the clock repair class in school. Maybe somebody on here will school us? I did take a lot of pictures with the wires still hooked up for the reinstall, and plan a test before reinstalling the cluster.

Last edited by Mod75; Jan 30, 2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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You're braver than I, 75. I left the whole back of the cluster wired and dangling in a big ziplock... I'll detach the clock, and mess with it when I get close to reinstall. I'm actually thinking of dropping a small digital clock and temp guage in a black pvc plastic circle in its place. i haven't decided yet. It may look way too weird, promting me to order the quartz clock replacement. But man, these fixes are adding up.

Good luck and keep me posted.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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I rewired my clock a couple of times, still amazed at how they work, hard to believe it's just a wind-up unit.
Salvaged guts from other clocks, (chevelle, might have been a buick though) even re-wound the coil once.
Spent an entire day setting and re-setting the speed to dial it in (got close, never quite right.
Let it run on the bench for about a week
Put it in the car, lasted about a week and a half before it arced the contacts closed again.
Took it out, took it apart and put in the quartz unit. I can pretend it goes tick tick tick by blinking my eyes
Mooser

Ohh, Krylon 1613.
Put in a DIN Radio, used one of those inserts, a little bondo (actually JB weld and Squadron-Green putty), two blast coats of Bed liner to "pebble" the face better and then two coats of Krylon and about an hour with Q-tip and lacquer thinner to clean the edges of the chrome

Last edited by Mooser; Jan 30, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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I used Eastwood's under hood black. Easy to get from their website.

Before
[IMG][/IMG]

After
[IMG][/IMG]

Now to reconnect the two pieces? By the way, I masked the chrome edges with 1/8" pin striping tape.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by twinpack
Now to reconnect the two pieces? By the way, I masked the chrome edges with 1/8" pin striping tape.
Just throwing it out there.
Mine was snapped on only one side right at that thin joint. I tried a few things (crazy glue, epoxy, epoxy with some aluminum screen) but it would snap again and move out about 1/2"
I made a little steel block with a small groove in it and a 1/16 hole, slid the edge of the dash into the groove and drilled the hole carefully with a dremel tool. repeated on the other side and then put in a 1/16 steel (might have been a drill shank) pin to hold the two pieces in line. A bit of JB weld on the outside edge to help.
Been probably 10 years, installed, in and out numerous times (carefully) for stereo changes etc. never broke again

No pictures of the fix (pre-digital camera) but still have the drill guide in the tool box somewhere (I think)
Not sure if it would work for both sides, a lot of pressure threre
Anyway, just 2 cents worth
Mooser
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mooser
Just throwing it out there.
Mine was snapped on only one side right at that thin joint. I tried a few things (crazy glue, epoxy, epoxy with some aluminum screen) but it would snap again and move out about 1/2"
I made a little steel block with a small groove in it and a 1/16 hole, slid the edge of the dash into the groove and drilled the hole carefully with a dremel tool. repeated on the other side and then put in a 1/16 steel (might have been a drill shank) pin to hold the two pieces in line. A bit of JB weld on the outside edge to help.
Been probably 10 years, installed, in and out numerous times (carefully) for stereo changes etc. never broke again

No pictures of the fix (pre-digital camera) but still have the drill guide in the tool box somewhere (I think)
Not sure if it would work for both sides, a lot of pressure threre
Anyway, just 2 cents worth
Mooser
Thanks for the insight. Food for thought.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Sounds like a reasonable fix. If the two pieces are not electrically connected you loose the ground to your wiper switch and the wipers don't work
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Virginia Vettes
Sounds like a reasonable fix. If the two pieces are not electrically connected you loose the ground to your wiper switch and the wipers don't work
Thanks for that info. I would have fought with that for a while.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Dumb question but I have done this a couple of times and used a razor to scratch off overspray. Is there any other technique
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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I use Q-tips and lacquer thinner, making sure the paint is fully cured. Doesn't leave the sharp edge to chip
Works for me, if I do use a razor I use one of those plastic ones so I don't risk scratching the chrome

my 2 cents
Mooser
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Krylon #1613 remains my all time favorite, but you have to purchase it through an industrial coatings outlet.

I just picked up 2 cans at my local hardware store - he's either an Ace or True Value.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bulldog90
Dumb question but I have done this a couple of times and used a razor to scratch off overspray. Is there any other technique
Lacquer thinner on a rag over your finger tip. Ditto on a q-tip. A hobby knife is sometimes a little easier to use than a razor blade.

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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bulldog90
Dumb question but I have done this a couple of times and used a razor to scratch off overspray. Is there any other technique
Good masking beforehand beats getting paint off where you didn't want it in the first place. Those panels jave a very thin layer of (non-really) chrome on them which is easily taken off.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 06:15 PM
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Hi tw,
If you found #1613 at your local store you're pretty lucky!
Any chance it's #51613?
That's the 'new' formula's number.
Also, I believe the bezels through the 76 model year have 'real' chrome plating.
Regards,
Alan

The old 1613 that's being sold to 'industrial' users (and on line) is very different than the 51613 that's in retail stores now.

Last edited by Alan 71; Mar 19, 2012 at 06:53 PM.
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