Guage console paint





What are you guys using for the console paint by the gauges? Might as well redo the shifter console while its out also.
Lot's of threads about the paint and various methods to use.
People seem to like Krylon #1613, SEMS semi-flat black, and John Deere Blitz black.
Takes a bit of effort, but well worth it!
Regards,
Alan
I used SEM Flat Black Trim... Supposed to be for exterior trim, but it turned out great, I think.

Far better than the old one in the scratched up bezel.

What radio are your planning? Retrosound was my choice.
Let me know if you can get that clock going again. I've got the same problem.
Satin black or semi-flat black paint. DO NOT use flat black or semi-gloss black for the interior trim.





My gauge cluster bezel was close to stock so i traded with a friend who wanted stock and i took his modded one and opened it up some more.
I had an old audiovox cassette radio which was acting up. The new one is a XD1222 with cd player, kind of a low end radio but will go with it.
Stroh, if you are like me i didn't take the clock repair class in school. Maybe somebody on here will school us? I did take a lot of pictures with the wires still hooked up for the reinstall, and plan a test before reinstalling the cluster.
Last edited by Mod75; Jan 30, 2012 at 08:42 PM.
Good luck and keep me posted.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Salvaged guts from other clocks, (chevelle, might have been a buick though) even re-wound the coil once.
Spent an entire day setting and re-setting the speed to dial it in (got close, never quite right.
Let it run on the bench for about a week
Put it in the car, lasted about a week and a half before it arced the contacts closed again.
Took it out, took it apart and put in the quartz unit. I can pretend it goes tick tick tick by blinking my eyes
Mooser
Ohh, Krylon 1613.
Put in a DIN Radio, used one of those inserts, a little bondo (actually JB weld and Squadron-Green putty), two blast coats of Bed liner to "pebble" the face better and then two coats of Krylon and about an hour with Q-tip and lacquer thinner to clean the edges of the chrome
Last edited by Mooser; Jan 30, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
Before
[IMG]
[/IMG]After
[IMG]
[/IMG]Now to reconnect the two pieces? By the way, I masked the chrome edges with 1/8" pin striping tape.
Mine was snapped on only one side right at that thin joint. I tried a few things (crazy glue, epoxy, epoxy with some aluminum screen) but it would snap again and move out about 1/2"
I made a little steel block with a small groove in it and a 1/16 hole, slid the edge of the dash into the groove and drilled the hole carefully with a dremel tool. repeated on the other side and then put in a 1/16 steel (might have been a drill shank) pin to hold the two pieces in line. A bit of JB weld on the outside edge to help.
Been probably 10 years, installed, in and out numerous times (carefully) for stereo changes etc. never broke again
No pictures of the fix (pre-digital camera) but still have the drill guide in the tool box somewhere (I think)
Not sure if it would work for both sides, a lot of pressure threre
Anyway, just 2 cents worth
Mooser
Mine was snapped on only one side right at that thin joint. I tried a few things (crazy glue, epoxy, epoxy with some aluminum screen) but it would snap again and move out about 1/2"
I made a little steel block with a small groove in it and a 1/16 hole, slid the edge of the dash into the groove and drilled the hole carefully with a dremel tool. repeated on the other side and then put in a 1/16 steel (might have been a drill shank) pin to hold the two pieces in line. A bit of JB weld on the outside edge to help.
Been probably 10 years, installed, in and out numerous times (carefully) for stereo changes etc. never broke again
No pictures of the fix (pre-digital camera) but still have the drill guide in the tool box somewhere (I think)
Not sure if it would work for both sides, a lot of pressure threre
Anyway, just 2 cents worth
Mooser
Works for me, if I do use a razor I use one of those plastic ones so I don't risk scratching the chrome
my 2 cents
Mooser
If you found #1613 at your local store you're pretty lucky!
Any chance it's #51613?
That's the 'new' formula's number.
Also, I believe the bezels through the 76 model year have 'real' chrome plating.
Regards,
Alan
The old 1613 that's being sold to 'industrial' users (and on line) is very different than the 51613 that's in retail stores now.
Last edited by Alan 71; Mar 19, 2012 at 06:53 PM.














