Numbers matching importance
Do I want to spend a few thousand $$$ on rebuilding the original parts, or should I spend a little more and and update the car with new/better stuff. That is a judgement call. There would also be much debate about which route is best for resale value. A new crate motor and 5 speed would be the choice of many.
People tinker with their home all the time. Not every project is evaluated on resale value, though some offer a better return than others.
But, as you start adding options, lets say a 454, 4-speed, A/C, roadster, with black interior and red paint. This car numbers matching in going to have a huge effect on price.
If you are just in it for the fun and want a driver, do not worry about numbers matching. If you plan on dumping some money into the car to make it much nicer, which you will if you intend to or not, save your money and buy a nicer car than a base model automatic. You will do much better in getting a little of your money back.
Remember, if you buy a base model driver, that is fine. But remember when you go to sell it, that is what you will be selling. So do not expect to get a ton for it.
My point is; you have to decide what you want the car for. Whatever you choose to buy, just enjoy it. Everybody is different.
I have bought and sold a lot of Corvette's over the years. Of all of them, I have kept two of the rarest numbers matching cars I ever owned.
Also, over the past five years I have watched my so called numbers matching cars drop 50K to 60K. But I do not own then to make money. I own them because I enjoy them. Otherwise I would sell them now as I am sure they will be worth a lot less in ten more years.
Jusy have fun with whatever you buy.
Last edited by L84s R Us; Jun 19, 2012 at 02:18 PM.
As far as driving an original car or trailering it around, I my opinion, which is just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it, I have a 63 fuelie that is restored. It will spend a few years on a trailer and go to car shows. after that, it will be driven.
I learned this the hard way. I have a 72 454, 4-speed,A/C, PW Tilt, PB, red with black deluxe interior. It has just over 35,000 miles on it. it is very original. I drove it very little to keep the miles down and keep the car really nice.
Then, I was involved in a bad car accident. Not the corvette. That is when I realized, FOR ME, it was really stupid to not drive the car. The accident changed my life. I enjoy the hell out of the car now by driving it.
As I look back, My son would have ended up with two really nice cars. Now I look at it like this. I hope before I die that I can drive the 63 and the 72 into the ground. that way when my son gets them, he will have two great places to start his restorations on. They should need it again by then with any luck.
the very very hard to find parts, I have already purchased for his restoration. I figure in forty years there will not be any first three month production turn signals left at all, along with a few other rare parts that are almost impossible to find even now.
Bottom line, they were built to be driven. Get you Survivor Certificate on your car. Then just take very good care of it.
A lot of guys get enjoyment out of having a perfect cars. To do that, they need to trailer their cars around. That works for them. But it is not for me. Showing my car to a bunch of other Corvette owners only strokes your ego. But that works for some.
that is what is great about all this. We can all do what WE want,\Just have fun doing whatever you decide to do.
Curious after three years if opinions have changed, and/or to hear new opinions from others.
I will start. I presently own a numbers matching base '71, that is not why I bought it though. I bought it because it was a rust free well taken care of car, in good driving condition, at a fair price.
My opinion on numbers matching is that as long as people have, and continue to re-stamp their engines, and as time passes (the numbers matching only crowd dwindling)there will be less emphasis on the importance of numbers matching cars. And personally I don't think that is a bad thing.
There always are exceptions of course (rare, BB, a/c, etc.).
Original spark plug wires on your bigblock? way cool! Reproduction correctly dated ("numbers matching")spark plug wires? YAWN!
I bought the new NCRS guide a couple of months ago, just for educational purposes, and turned to the seatbelt section. After 16 years of ownership, with the help of this guide I pretty much confirmed that one of my seatbelts is original to the car. At least the tag had the right date, and I seriously doubt the restorer tracked down a correctly dated seatbelt. That was pretty cool.
Last edited by PRNDL; Sep 1, 2015 at 11:50 PM.




I disagree with your idea of what numbers matching means, though. To me numbers matching means that numbers actually "match," as in the engine pad or transmission VIN derivative (could be a restamp, not necessarily the original) matches the VIN of the body. Period.
I dont agree that numbers that are correct or appropriate for a car, like an alternator's correct number or date, are "matching." Those are parts that can be replaced any time. Those are not matching numbers parts; they are correct parts. I don't make this distinction to "bicker about terminology." I think people have to determine if they are speaking the same language when they are discussing a car. If someone tells me their car is numbers matching, I'm thinking the stamped engine pad number matches the VIN tag. I need to know if he means the alternator and the wheels are correct.
The best reference I have to this is Mike Antonick's explanation of the term in the Corvette Black Book when he says, "more than any number, it is the engine's VIN derivative match (his emphasis in italics) to the vehicle number (emphasis mine) that constitutes matching numbers (his emphasis in italics) terminology."
At any rate, I'm fine with resurrecting an old thread if people want to discuss if their opinions have changed over time. Just as long as there's none of the personal insults that were in the first couple pages.
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Sep 2, 2015 at 01:21 AM.


Lots of semantics about numbers matching. Some people incorrectly think that numbers matching means original. And some people do mean original when they say numbers matching. Gotta do the homework and check the VIN and numbers to be 100% sure...
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

Last edited by derekderek; Sep 26, 2015 at 07:11 PM.
o noooo 


I dont waste my time with worrying about value you could make more working a few extra hrs a week and know for sure you were getting paid.
I wonder how some people get through life agonizing and hand wringing over such things as is my overspray correct?

Sorry man had to.
Last edited by cv67; Sep 26, 2015 at 10:21 PM.
Engine is the heart of the car .
To me chassis is as important as trans if not more ....it has vin on it too . It is a major part of the whole car.
Also trans is Aluminum.. Much easier to restamp and detail than a block . I would not put a lot faith in one being original.
Cars with complete ecklers front or rear after market one piece clips should not be passed off as original. GM never made C2 corvette in that manor.

Steve, that is about the most clear and concise explanation of what the ubiquitous term "numbers matching" means in the world of classic cars. I have been telling people exactly that for years. Can't wait to see it reduced to an acronym for the sake of expediency. Can you imagine the BJ hawkers proclaiming "This jewel is all NM"....

Dennis
I think it's interesting that the transmission 'pads' (flanges) weren't 'ground out' as engine pads were.
I believe the first stamp was typically "X'd" out and then a new stamp was done in a different place on the flange.
Did this have to do with the fact that the case was aluminum (soft) or access to the flange?
In this case…. which set of digits was x'd out originally?
Regards,
Alan
I think it's interesting that the transmission 'pads' (flanges) weren't 'ground out' as engine pads were.
I believe the first stamp was typically "X'd" out and then a new stamp was done in a different place on the flange.
Did this have to do with the fact that the case was aluminum (soft) or access to the flange?
In this case…. which set of digits was x'd out originally?
Regards,
Alan


















