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I can't figure this out, I rebuilt my alternator because it wasn't working but after rebuilding and testing it the output voltage at the battery was 17+
I got in touch with then vendor I purchased the kit from and was sent another voltage regulator.
After the install over the weekend the voltage at the battery now reads 18+
Check the battery voltage without the engine running to confirm your meter is OK.
Recheck your installation of the regulator,it must be insulated , grounding will put it in test mode-full output.
when you mention grounding the alternator where might this happen; I do have both insulators around the bolts in the regulator, and the third terminal doesn't have one.
I will retest the voltage with my other digital multimeter over the weekend
when you mention grounding the alternator where might this happen; I do have both insulators around the bolts in the regulator, and the third terminal doesn't have one.
I will retest the voltage with my other digital multimeter over the weekend
On the regulator is a test tab that you can ground to force the alternator into full output for testing. If one of the insulators is in the wrong place it will force the alt to full output.
Not saying you did that but its worth checking since you have had 2 suspect regulators in a row.
Look at the rear of the alternator housing right behind the regulator, there will be a D shaped hole. Inside the hole you can see a shiny little tab that is used to full field the alternator by grounding the tab to the case. Full fielding is bypassing the regulator and giving the alternator field full voltage or in the case of this alternator it already has full voltage and the grounded tab will complete the field circuit and cause the alternator to go to max uncontrolled output. If the voltage regulator case is accidentally grounded by mounting it wrong it will not function and cause the alternator to go to full voltage.
Thinking about this "tab" a little more !
I might be wrong about the tab being part of the voltage regulator,the tab might be part of the brush holder.
The idea is still the same though,there is part of the reg that needs to be insulated.
I'll try to look at some pics and confirm. If all my parts weren't sold or packed away I would take some pics.
I think there are many books that will detail exactly how the reg and brush holder need to be installed.
OK , found a pic. The tab with the red arrow is what shows up in the D window,this tab must be insulated from ground,it must have 1 of the insulated screws.
I liked the video on how to rebuild the alternator. Except that one should not use sandpaper on copper or brass because abrasive particles will embed themselves in the soft metal. This will cause the slip rings to act like a hone stone on the brushes.
Recheck the 3 bolts , the 2 bolts with green lines are the insulated bolts,the yellow is the grounded bolt. Its fairly common to find the grounded bolt in the wrong location.
If you don't have the external connector wired correctly or if a wire is damaged/broken, the alternator will not be able to 'sense' the actual battery voltage and will [by default] go to max charging voltage, which is around 17 vdc. Make sure that connector and its wiring are good and are routed correctly.
I liked the video on how to rebuild the alternator. Except that one should not use sandpaper on copper or brass because abrasive particles will embed themselves in the soft metal. This will cause the slip rings to act like a hone stone on the brushes.
John
John, what would you recommend to clean up the slip rings ?