My 2012 winter project
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 12
From: Montgomery Alabama
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
I would tape off the ends and paint the half shafts cast, then clear coat them.
Then I would paint the differential cast with a coat of clear. Leave the driveshaft black.
Either paint the rear tension rods, or get some new adjustable ones. The adjustable ones make aligning the rear a snap.
Here is a couple other suggestions:
1. Paint the differential mounting bracket black and the tension rod bracket black.
2, Go back over the frame rails with satin chassis black from Summit Racing (it is much cheaper than Eastwood's satin chassis black.
3. Re-pant the front spindles and tie-rod ends cast, but leave the control arms black and the sway bar black and the tie-rod adjusters black.
Paint the calipers red and put on a couple coats of clear.
4. Polish the hard brake lines and clear coat them. Clean the e-brake cables and clear them.
5. Replace the rubber brake lines with braided stainless lines.
6. If you get new rotors, paint them with clear. If you have good rotors, paint them cast, then clear coat them.
7. Paint the trailing arms gloss black like the front A-frames.
Then I would paint the differential cast with a coat of clear. Leave the driveshaft black.
Either paint the rear tension rods, or get some new adjustable ones. The adjustable ones make aligning the rear a snap.
Here is a couple other suggestions:
1. Paint the differential mounting bracket black and the tension rod bracket black.
2, Go back over the frame rails with satin chassis black from Summit Racing (it is much cheaper than Eastwood's satin chassis black.
3. Re-pant the front spindles and tie-rod ends cast, but leave the control arms black and the sway bar black and the tie-rod adjusters black.
Paint the calipers red and put on a couple coats of clear.
4. Polish the hard brake lines and clear coat them. Clean the e-brake cables and clear them.
5. Replace the rubber brake lines with braided stainless lines.
6. If you get new rotors, paint them with clear. If you have good rotors, paint them cast, then clear coat them.
7. Paint the trailing arms gloss black like the front A-frames.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
I would tape off the ends and paint the half shafts cast, then clear coat them.
Then I would paint the differential cast with a coat of clear. Leave the driveshaft black.
Either paint the rear tension rods, or get some new adjustable ones. The adjustable ones make aligning the rear a snap.
Here is a couple other suggestions:
1. Paint the differential mounting bracket black and the tension rod bracket black.
2, Go back over the frame rails with satin chassis black from Summit Racing (it is much cheaper than Eastwood's satin chassis black.
3. Re-pant the front spindles and tie-rod ends cast, but leave the control arms black and the sway bar black and the tie-rod adjusters black.
Paint the calipers red and put on a couple coats of clear.
4. Polish the hard brake lines and clear coat them. Clean the e-brake cables and clear them.
5. Replace the rubber brake lines with braided stainless lines.
6. If you get new rotors, paint them with clear. If you have good rotors, paint them cast, then clear coat them.
7. Paint the trailing arms gloss black like the front A-frames.
Then I would paint the differential cast with a coat of clear. Leave the driveshaft black.
Either paint the rear tension rods, or get some new adjustable ones. The adjustable ones make aligning the rear a snap.
Here is a couple other suggestions:
1. Paint the differential mounting bracket black and the tension rod bracket black.
2, Go back over the frame rails with satin chassis black from Summit Racing (it is much cheaper than Eastwood's satin chassis black.
3. Re-pant the front spindles and tie-rod ends cast, but leave the control arms black and the sway bar black and the tie-rod adjusters black.
Paint the calipers red and put on a couple coats of clear.
4. Polish the hard brake lines and clear coat them. Clean the e-brake cables and clear them.
5. Replace the rubber brake lines with braided stainless lines.
6. If you get new rotors, paint them with clear. If you have good rotors, paint them cast, then clear coat them.
7. Paint the trailing arms gloss black like the front A-frames.
I already got the adjustable strut rods so thats ready.
1. Paint the differential mounting bracket black and the tension rod bracket black. -ALREADY DONE
2, Go back over the frame rails with satin chassis black from Summit Racing (it is much cheaper than Eastwood's satin chassis black. -I was going to use semi gloss black....
3. Re-pant the front spindles and tie-rod ends cast, but leave the control arms black and the sway bar black and the tie-rod adjusters black. - Good idea on the spindles...I think I will redo in cast
Paint the calipers red and put on a couple coats of clear. - Was going to do red but decided to do black
4. Polish the hard brake lines and clear coat them. Clean the e-brake cables and clear them. - Good idea
5. Replace the rubber brake lines with braided stainless lines. - Maybe a future project
6. If you get new rotors, paint them with clear. If you have good rotors, paint them cast, then clear coat them. - Keeping old rotors, still good.
7. Paint the trailing arms gloss black like the front A-frames. -They will be rebuilt as part of a future project so will be done at that point.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Oil pan and bellhousing finally got some paint. Also got the correct inspection cover on. Fixed some wiring while I was there...old electrical tape was breaking off.
Starter has to come off anyway for header installation so this was a good time to clean and paint. Stabilizer bar also got a cleaning and paint.
Starter has to come off anyway for header installation so this was a good time to clean and paint. Stabilizer bar also got a cleaning and paint.
Last edited by rafalc; Nov 27, 2012 at 09:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Engine finally got masked off and got some fresh paint.
Certain parts may need a touch up either when it gets warmer out or when I have the car running in order to heat up the paint. I think the under 60F temp might have caused the following or maybe it just needs to be baked with the motor on:
The orange heater hoses got taken off and heater box inspected. Will be putting in correct black hoses and I'm on the fence about shut off valves...
Heater box looks good.
Certain parts may need a touch up either when it gets warmer out or when I have the car running in order to heat up the paint. I think the under 60F temp might have caused the following or maybe it just needs to be baked with the motor on:
The orange heater hoses got taken off and heater box inspected. Will be putting in correct black hoses and I'm on the fence about shut off valves...
Heater box looks good.
Last edited by rafalc; Nov 27, 2012 at 09:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
After a very long time deciding and changing my mind between Pypes, the CC system with Magnaflows, and a couple of others, I went with the SS Pypes RacePro system. I hope only minor adjustments will need to be made. Also got new SS tips. Most likely will cut the extension pipe, enlarge the hole to 2.5" and weld in a 2.5" extension to match the rest of the pipes.
Last edited by rafalc; Dec 4, 2012 at 08:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Thanks. It starts off as a small job, then once you see how easy it gets to get to other things, you just keep going. Its all fun though so I'm not complaining. Lots more pictures to come, just go a whole bunch of parts last week.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
A bunch of parts came in last week. VBP #330 spring with 8 inch bolts, diff crossmember reinforcing kit, Bilsteins HDs.
The spindles and springs were resprayed with cast blast to match the original look.
Transmission tunnel insulation, correct heater hoses and some other small items. Also cleaned and sprayed the heater box, new insulation kit, and correct hoses.
The spindles and springs were resprayed with cast blast to match the original look.
Transmission tunnel insulation, correct heater hoses and some other small items. Also cleaned and sprayed the heater box, new insulation kit, and correct hoses.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Noticed Eastwood has a new product for coating the inside of headers, manifolds, pipes, etc. Works just like the internal frame coating with the long 360 degrees spraying wand but is thicker. It can also get as messy as the frame product....
My headers are ceramic coated on the outside only so I figured I'll give it a try. The coating is metallic gray. The little shiny specs might be ceramic, which would explain the claim of reducing the external temperature. I also checked with the headers manufacturer about this product and found out that unlike a header wrap, this coating will not void the warranty. I plan on doing the same on the rest of the exhaust.
BTW....this may be a good alternative to wrapping the exhaust or fiberglass spring....
My headers are ceramic coated on the outside only so I figured I'll give it a try. The coating is metallic gray. The little shiny specs might be ceramic, which would explain the claim of reducing the external temperature. I also checked with the headers manufacturer about this product and found out that unlike a header wrap, this coating will not void the warranty. I plan on doing the same on the rest of the exhaust.
BTW....this may be a good alternative to wrapping the exhaust or fiberglass spring....
Last edited by rafalc; Dec 5, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
So how difficult with that transmission tunnel insulation be to install with the tranny in, or are you planning to pull the trans?
I sprayed that coating in my headers, I do believe that it works but the headers don't seem to cool off as fast either.
I sprayed that coating in my headers, I do believe that it works but the headers don't seem to cool off as fast either.
Last edited by AirborneSilva; Dec 4, 2012 at 08:58 PM. Reason: more info
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
I read here on the forum that it is doable. I can get my hand over the tranny and almost "hug" it all the way around. I will take my chances and do it without pulling anything out. After spraying lizard skin and masking off the tranny by wrapping it in foil all the way around, seems like there is just enough room.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ainer-kit.aspx
Take lots of pictures...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Went with competition strut rods. Originally was set on the adjustable ones with bushings but read numerous complains of them loosening up. Was also recommended these with the "softer" 330 spring and Bilsteins HDs. Supposingly heims will not feel as rough with my setup.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Finally done with paint on the undercarriage...what a pain that was...
Wheel wells done in satin chassis black over the lizard skin, floors got a clear top coat over the lizard skin and look dark gray, frame rails semi gloss chassis black.
Wheel wells done in satin chassis black over the lizard skin, floors got a clear top coat over the lizard skin and look dark gray, frame rails semi gloss chassis black.
Last edited by rafalc; Dec 6, 2012 at 06:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Old spark plugs look decent but since everything is out, new plugs and wires are going in. New NGKs are a little shorter than the older AC Delco...might be helpful with keeping the boots further away from the headers.
