75 interior costs
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Chatham On
75 interior costs
Good day
I am looking at a 75 for sale, frame body looks decent, interior is rough at best.
After market rims and tires look okay.
Engine runs but needs work and is not stock, headers, alum intake, electric fans. Not sure what is in it for motor work, the guy does not seem to know much, I am not too worried about the motor work.
I can pick it up pretty cheap he wants it gone so I am curious what an interior restore runs ballpark these days?
Looks like at the least seals, seat skins or complete, door panels, carpet, missing the compartment doors, maybe some dash parts, also the rear window is not held in with anything. At first I thought it was removable but 75 did not have one, mind you it is at the moment.
Thought it might be worth saving.
Anyhow any opinions are welcome.
Mat
I am looking at a 75 for sale, frame body looks decent, interior is rough at best.
After market rims and tires look okay.
Engine runs but needs work and is not stock, headers, alum intake, electric fans. Not sure what is in it for motor work, the guy does not seem to know much, I am not too worried about the motor work.
I can pick it up pretty cheap he wants it gone so I am curious what an interior restore runs ballpark these days?
Looks like at the least seals, seat skins or complete, door panels, carpet, missing the compartment doors, maybe some dash parts, also the rear window is not held in with anything. At first I thought it was removable but 75 did not have one, mind you it is at the moment.
Thought it might be worth saving.
Anyhow any opinions are welcome.
Mat
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Mat,
There are interior 'packages' available that may help save some money, but I'd think the cost would be $1500 to $2000.
Not too much room to spend serious money on a 75 without getting upside down in it, so be cautious!
Regards,
Alan
There are interior 'packages' available that may help save some money, but I'd think the cost would be $1500 to $2000.
Not too much room to spend serious money on a 75 without getting upside down in it, so be cautious!
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Chatham On
I do not want to end up spending tons for sure. Most of these things end up being not worth what you end up in it in the end but not losing too much is nice.
The intent is just to have a fun to drive car with some added HP as I was going to do a stroked 350 in the end which is why I started looking. I have a feeling I can grab it for about 3K.
Do you happen to have a link for the interior packages so I can have a look?
The intent is just to have a fun to drive car with some added HP as I was going to do a stroked 350 in the end which is why I started looking. I have a feeling I can grab it for about 3K.
Do you happen to have a link for the interior packages so I can have a look?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Mat,
You may also want to check Willcox, Corvette Central, and Zip Products.
Again, BE CAREFUL how much you pay for this car. Have you checked carefully for rust?
Regards,
Alan
You may also want to check Willcox, Corvette Central, and Zip Products.
Again, BE CAREFUL how much you pay for this car. Have you checked carefully for rust?
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Chatham On
I went over it as well as I could.
The under frame looked pretty decent, body mounts seemed good, bottom rubbers were cracked. Rotors were rusty but not grooved or damaged. Look like a small rust spot in the front inner wheel well. The frame had overspray from the paint that was done around 5 yrs ago. Exhaust looked pretty fresh mind you it had very lound tubes on the back, reminded me of the cherry bomb days.
The impression I got was it has not been driven for a couple years as he no longer has a license.
Any where I should have paid special attention to being as I can not get it on a hoist?
The market around here appears to be in the 10k area.
The under frame looked pretty decent, body mounts seemed good, bottom rubbers were cracked. Rotors were rusty but not grooved or damaged. Look like a small rust spot in the front inner wheel well. The frame had overspray from the paint that was done around 5 yrs ago. Exhaust looked pretty fresh mind you it had very lound tubes on the back, reminded me of the cherry bomb days.
The impression I got was it has not been driven for a couple years as he no longer has a license.
Any where I should have paid special attention to being as I can not get it on a hoist?
The market around here appears to be in the 10k area.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,270
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Mat,
I'm being tough on you.
Do you want a 75 or do you want this one because of what you can buy it for?
Have you looked for rust around the windshield, in the hinge pillars, behind the kick panels, and under the rocker channels?
My observation is that $3000 doesn't buy you much Corvette.
Regards,
Alan
I'm being tough on you.
Do you want a 75 or do you want this one because of what you can buy it for?
Have you looked for rust around the windshield, in the hinge pillars, behind the kick panels, and under the rocker channels?
My observation is that $3000 doesn't buy you much Corvette.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Chatham On
Yep your being tough for sure.
Was looking for something to work on in the C3 range, prior to 80, otherwise I would be out looking for a C5. Mostly as the C3 era after 72 or so are pretty reasonable and I am not concerned with keeping it stock as my C4 was.
Door hinge area looked okay, pins and bushings seemed good as well.
Didn't check around the windshield or behind the kick panels (i assume you mean the interior ones). I tried having a look down the rocker channels, seemed alright but was hard to tell. It has 80,000 miles.
I agree on the price it is low and you get what you pay for. The more I spend the more I get "have to keep it stock and matching mentality" for some reason. I was that way with my C4 only had 50K KMS on it and I could never bring myself to modify it.
If you give me a list of what to look for and the easiest way to check those items out I will go have another look?
Was looking for something to work on in the C3 range, prior to 80, otherwise I would be out looking for a C5. Mostly as the C3 era after 72 or so are pretty reasonable and I am not concerned with keeping it stock as my C4 was.
Door hinge area looked okay, pins and bushings seemed good as well.
Didn't check around the windshield or behind the kick panels (i assume you mean the interior ones). I tried having a look down the rocker channels, seemed alright but was hard to tell. It has 80,000 miles.
I agree on the price it is low and you get what you pay for. The more I spend the more I get "have to keep it stock and matching mentality" for some reason. I was that way with my C4 only had 50K KMS on it and I could never bring myself to modify it.
If you give me a list of what to look for and the easiest way to check those items out I will go have another look?
Last edited by carcraze; Nov 10, 2012 at 08:00 PM. Reason: info
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
#1. Does the car have a clear and valid title...not SALVAGE and not in some business name or other name than the person selling the car?
If the answer to the above question is "NO", don't even consider it.
And...
For a late 70's C3 to be worth $5K, it should be in decent (not good) operating condition, interior pieces should be present/worn but not in bad shape (you can repair and recolor interior pieces if they are there and not 'junk'), paint should not have significant damage, and body panels should be intact. Steering, suspension, braking and drivetrain should not have any serious problems that make the car seem unsafe.
Good luck in your search.
If the answer to the above question is "NO", don't even consider it.
And...
For a late 70's C3 to be worth $5K, it should be in decent (not good) operating condition, interior pieces should be present/worn but not in bad shape (you can repair and recolor interior pieces if they are there and not 'junk'), paint should not have significant damage, and body panels should be intact. Steering, suspension, braking and drivetrain should not have any serious problems that make the car seem unsafe.
Good luck in your search.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
Likes: 299
From: New York
I think with out pics any advice you get here is sorta useless.... But if you prefer a car to work on over one that is turn key its value is what you want to pay for it and the restore costs will follow that same path ..
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
If you do the work yourself, you have no labor costs. If you farm out the job, add the cost of labor to your parts price list.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Chatham On
Well most of the work I am doing myself, and the car was something to work on as I am not doing the original path. I use to do car work all the time but have not been that active with it as of late thought it might be a project, just dont want to be stuck doing a body off restore.
So just as an update I put out a conditional real low ball offer to the seller and he has accepted. The conditions were I bring my buddy over and check over the front rear frame, birdcage, and front cross member, ect, for cancer.
I hope to start the 2500 dollar idiot thread with some pictures for you guys to beat on or the 75 part out thread.
Any other area to check let me know, I already know the interior is rough but I will try and post some pics if I purchase.
So just as an update I put out a conditional real low ball offer to the seller and he has accepted. The conditions were I bring my buddy over and check over the front rear frame, birdcage, and front cross member, ect, for cancer.
I hope to start the 2500 dollar idiot thread with some pictures for you guys to beat on or the 75 part out thread.
Any other area to check let me know, I already know the interior is rough but I will try and post some pics if I purchase.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,842
Likes: 285
From: Palmdale CA
Ditto on the responses. Plan on spending $2K to $3K on the interior. You'd be surprised at how much everything is, especially if it's broken or missing. My 74' was basically gutted with a bunch of broken pieces (but it sure runs excellent and drives nice too!) and I'm into it for at least $2,500.
It's the little stuff BEHIND the dash that will kill you! Because most of the interior trim kits don't cover behind the dash, only the panels, sills, etc. Many of those screws, like the one holding the windshield wiper assembly switch to the back of the center console are specific to that application! Ditto for the power window access panel for the door. The windshield defroster vent will run you about $35.
I highly recommend getting a Factory Service Manual and an Assembly manual if you get this car. There is also a website that sells the GM fasteners, by the PN! Boy, is that convenient if you can't find them used.
http://www.pointe-products.com/itemc...ners-and-Clips
Check to see if you have all the ducts for the heating and A/C (if it came with that) too. I had to buy half of the ducts, because they were missing.
It's the little stuff BEHIND the dash that will kill you! Because most of the interior trim kits don't cover behind the dash, only the panels, sills, etc. Many of those screws, like the one holding the windshield wiper assembly switch to the back of the center console are specific to that application! Ditto for the power window access panel for the door. The windshield defroster vent will run you about $35.
I highly recommend getting a Factory Service Manual and an Assembly manual if you get this car. There is also a website that sells the GM fasteners, by the PN! Boy, is that convenient if you can't find them used.
http://www.pointe-products.com/itemc...ners-and-Clips
Check to see if you have all the ducts for the heating and A/C (if it came with that) too. I had to buy half of the ducts, because they were missing.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Chatham On
Well it seems he has retracted his offer acceptance so I am going to leave it be.
Thanks for all the replies, I am looking at another and need some market advice but will start a different thread.
Thanks
Thanks for all the replies, I am looking at another and need some market advice but will start a different thread.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
What do you mean by he "retracted his acceptance of your offer"? He accepted it, already. Did you give him any money to complete the deal or create a bill of sale/contract? (down payment in good faith)
If you did, and you want the car, file a small claims court law suit. You won't even need a lawyer for this one.
If you did not give him any transaction money or sign a bill of sale, just forget it and look for the next one...
If you did, and you want the car, file a small claims court law suit. You won't even need a lawyer for this one.
If you did not give him any transaction money or sign a bill of sale, just forget it and look for the next one...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Chatham On
No it was jsut an email acceptance, no money or anything changed hands.
He is not getting 4K from me for that one needs too much.
I have a line on another not sure if it is a done deal or not yet but if it is a will post some pics and what not.
He is not getting 4K from me for that one needs too much.
I have a line on another not sure if it is a done deal or not yet but if it is a will post some pics and what not.