After you've bled the master cylinder, you can gravity bleed a C3. Begin by parking the front wheels on some (maybe 6) sheets of magazine paper, and jack up and support the rear only. Remove the rear wheels, and open ONE bleeder at a time, inside bleeders first, with the bleeders connected to a hose that ends in a jar to collect the fluid. Drink a cup of coffee, or whatever your favorite beverage is, and wait. When the rears are running clean, bubble free fluid, close them off. Since the fronts are on the magazine paper, you can easily turn the steering wheel to full lock in either direction to access the front calipers. Now gravity bleed the front calipers, one at a time. Might need another cup of coffee right there. Wait for clean, bubble free fluid.
You don't even need to touch the brake pedal. Dunno if it'll work on any other car that way.

 

Wow...interesting..

 

G'day,

The trouble with most of us guys, including myself, is that we want it done yesterday or at least RIGHT NOW!!! Let time be your friend. A simple fact is that brake fluid is heavier than air so give it enough time, and the bubbles of air will migrate up the brake lines to the MC.

I jack the front up or run the front wheels up on ramps and fill the MC and let it sit overnight. With the prop. valve and MC now higher than the rear calipers, gravity will push the fluid down and let the air up. Only a minor bleed of the rear calipers is needed to let the last stubborn bubbles out.

Tip: If you have a rubber hammer, give the calipers a few gentle hits when the front of the car is up in the air, and this will help loosen most of those tiny air bubbles and send them on their way to the MC.

As for the fronts, with the car still on ramps, it is easy to crawl under and bleed the front calipers, but I like the above advice about using the sheets of paper. You could possible do this with the front wheels on the ramps if you don't want to get under the car.

The main thing to remember is to constantly check the fluid level in the MC. As to the OP, you don't have to remove the MC to "bench bleed" it. Go to the wreckers and buy an old stuffed MC with about a foot of brake line attached. You only need the two brake lines. Bend them up and over so that they go back into the MC BELOW the fluid level.

Fit them to your MC (in the car) and get in and pump the pedal until a helper tells you that no more air bubbles are coming out of the lines. Then, one at a time, quickly remove the bleeder lines and connect your factory lines. The amount of air that this will introduce to the system is negligible.

Good luck.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn