SEM black is good stuff.. we use it every day.

Make sure all the brass threads are in good shape on these before you install too..

 

Thanks for this post - this is where I'm at now Of course, when I put the console plate on, the lever won't go this far to engage PARK.


I might be back

 

Well, after 3 hours yesterday trying to get the console back in far enough, I took the GD radio out and finally got it so that all can now be assembled. Wife says we need a radio - I told her to carry a transistor.

 

I am having a similar issue on a 1976 with manual trans and Hurst shifter. The shift lever hits the front of the opening in the console and the heater/air cond control is difficult to install as the cables are very tight, both indicating the console needs to move forward at least 1/2 inch more. Also, the top of the center dash panel (by the A/C duct / wiper switch plate) will not go forward enough (but the L and R side panels fit under the dash cover correctly).

I've replaced center dash panels before on a 1974 I used to own so I know what to expect, but this problem is vexing. One possibility, since there is evidence of extensive previous repairs, is that the ductwork might be from another year. Or the steel mounting strip pop-riveted to the center A/C duct could have been replaced in the wrong position. So those are the first things I need to confirm. And of course the usual issues with the radio and the front bracket. I'll post something once I figure it out, but I thought I would mention it as I see a number of other people having similar issues.

 

Scott - seems you are familiar with this repair. I will NEVER do a C3 dashboard project ever again. I had mine completely apart for a heater core replacement, vacumn hose replacement and Autometer Speedo/Tach swap. I know what my problem is - it's the ductwork behind the Instrument panel bezel which cannot be pushed back far enough. Probably because it has no flexability like it probably did when it was put in back in 1969. Plus everything has to be put back exactly - there is no extra room. I had one heck of a job with the Driver side dash - getting it back after I put the Autometer gauges in. I had the speedo cable routed the wrong way going over or under the wiring harness - then you have to deal with the support rods etc. I spent most of the day yesterday in trying to get the radio back in (after I said it was staying out) and still couldn't get the bezel back far enough to permit the console to get in correctly. So after about 5 hours of trying, I pulled the radio out again. So then I got a brain storm and cheated. I took the 2 screw studs that were on the bottom of the bezel off. That eliminated the problem I had where the screw studs had to go into the pop riveted metal piece on the console - in fact, that eventially busted off completly anyway. I got everything back yesterday except being able to screw into the top console plate into the console. When I go to screw it in, the C-H wheel contacts the shifter rod. This is because the console is sitting a bit lower than it would have if I had the screw studs left in. I have to get the console raised a bit higher but that now seems to be an issue. Somehow I will work it out.

I fabed my own Radio Delete plate - do you believe they want $163 for one.

 

Yeah, but it looks so good


Ps. good job with yours, now install that extra gauge you have into it and there is even room for 1-2 more!

 

let me think for a minute how that would look

 

I just resolved a similar issue on my 1977 4 speed. The problem was pertty much what I thought (center console too far back) and that was causing the shift lever to hit the front edge of the opening in the console, but the solution was far from easy. I started by mounting the center console in the proper place (mounting holes lined up with the bracket) - it was off by about 1" - the previous owner had drilled new holes rather than fix the problem). Then the center dash panel. Had to drill new holes in the L and R dash panels to attach the center dash panel - it was that far off. Then the dash pad was warped - both from heat and from years of being pulled down by everything else that was installed too low. I used a heat gun to soften it up and that helped - not 100% but most people would not notice and I have other things I'd rather spend $350 on. Then I tightened everything up and re-installed all the mouldings and it looks pretty good. You and I might notice a few details if you've done the job before, but it's 99% better than it was and everything works the way it is supposed to. Other notes: the previous owner had cracked the L side dash panel and I had to epoxy it and reinforce it. Also the crescent shaped metal brace that holds things together behind the panel and stiffens it was misssing so I fabricated one - probably why things cracked in the first place. The connector betwen the upper defroster duct and the lower plenum was missing so I fabricated that too. So all in all, a successful but painful job. The original shift lever problem is solved, everything looks aligned properly and everything operates 100%. As Twinvette pointed out, I too would rather do body mounts or trailing arms than do this job again.