Here's something I have been wondering, when I built the motor in my 74 coupe I sent out the block for machining and rotating assy install. When I got it back the guy removed the stamping for the serial number when he decked the block. I wasn't happy about it, but it happened.
What I would like is a picture of a serial number to see if I could duplicate the original.
Does somebody have a breakdown of the engine numbers?
Prefix, suffix, and I believe it is the last 5 digits of the VIN.
It's a 1974, base engine, 4 speed, NO A/C car

 

Oh boy- best put your flame suit on.

 

I'm guessing that means I should leave it the way it is?

 

Hi t,
Once the original stamps are gone, they're gone.
Before you even consider how and where to obtain the proper stamps, what might you plans be to duplicate the surface appearance, (broach marks), of the original pad?
Leave things alone.
Regards,
Alan

 

I was thinking of just restamping the numbers, but I am not, Im getting the feeling it is taboo.
I will leave as is, numbers gone, at least the casting date is still legible on the flywheel end.

 

The block stamping was made up of 2 sets of numbers, the VIN derivative and the engine suffix code.

The VIN derivative was the last 6 digits of your VIN. The suffix code was something like this: V****CKZ. The "V" is the Flint engine plant, and it's followed by 4 numbers. The first two numbers for the month the engine was assembled (01-12), followed by two more, for the day of the month (01-31). Finally, the 3 letter code, "CKZ", identifies the engine. In this case CKZ is a base L-48, 4 speed, with US Federal emission equipment (CLB would be California emissions).

Of course, it's more than just a matter of re-stamping the digits. Once the block has been decked, the original broach marks are gone, so any re-stamp, will be noticeable. People offer re-stamping services, but the odds of it being the same as when it left St. Louis, are pretty slim.

Your a better man than me, if all you can say is that "I wasn't happy about it, but it happened"! Personally, I would have gone ballistic!

 

No matter what documentation you have or what stampings you put on the block, you can never PROVE that block came with the car. Thus, if you ever sell it, you will probably lose the premium for having a 'numbers matching' engine/VIN. If you think it would help, you could have the manager of the machine shop complete a simple AFFIDAVIT form and have it notorized, stating that the block he machined was {whatever numbers were originally on the block} and that you re-installed that block back into your car.

But, it won't really be anything legally binding, as you could swap engines anytime in the future and no one would know.

To bad. Shoulda' thought about that when you had the block machined.

 

In the big C3 Corvette picture of things, I really wouldn't sweat the matching numbers, especially on an L48 74', because while it might be a nice selling point, it's not nearly as impactive as someone who has a late sixties 427 or early 70's 454 or LT1, where absolute originality or at least, where matching numbers matter a lot more, than our 74's.

 

I disagree. My 74 L-48 coupe had matching numbers and I was as proud of those as I would be for a big block or an LT-1.

Toolman: Try Google > Images and keep refining your search until block pads begin to pop up.

 

There is an accepted stamp pad reproduction that only a very few people in the country do and do well.. and they charge 4 figures and more to do it... it is a continuous game between the stampers and the judges who can tell.
you will need access to the correct stamps with the correct fonts and number/letters spacing.. and you will need access to a broacher to prepare the pad.. then you need to make sure that you are broaching correctly.. you will have to hammer it just the right way and get the proper depth of the stamp...
as a result it would be best for you to somehow just etch your numbers with a etch-a-pen because you will not fool a lot of people.

granted, most people just look at the stamp pad and know nothing about date codes and fonts and spacing and if they see the numbers, no matter how bad they look, then they think they have an original engine.

until they get the car home and then look closer and start asking others what the numbers mean.

so you either have to pay someone 2K to correctly prep and stamp your block or try to stamp it yourself and folks will just laugh at how bad the attempt was.... All just to get a very minor incremental price increase for a base engine 74 when it comes to selling time.. as well as very bad blood between your buyer and you...

ain't worth it.. just enjoy your car. a 74 base engine car will sell better based on condition than it will based on originality. but if you want to really play that game, then do your research and really find out what it takes to do it.

I would just laugh at some notarized affidavit a seller presented to me on a car with a shaved pad.. a shaved pad is a shaved pad.. no affidavit is gonna make me pay more.

 

Thanx for the advice, didn't mean to open a can of worms.
The only thing original is the block, and that was so I could keep the numbers.
Everything else is aftermarket
Dart heads
Holley carb & intake
Scat rods
Eagle racing crank
1.6 full roller rockers
So I'm really not concerned about the numbers, but would have been nice

 

Mike, no offense meant. I too am proud of my L48 and am even going to run the engine emblems on the hood, I was just putting the numbers aspect into the overall valuation of things.

 

Just do it. It's you car. Do what you want.

 

I agree, its your car , do what makes you happy......most people that are knowledgable won't have a hard time seeing that its restamped.

I would't have been happy with the moron that wiped the serial.

 

OR, Find another '74 L48 block cast prior to the build date on your Vette. Remember there was a UAW strike in 74. I think Jun-Aug. Check around you never know. An L48 would be a prefect Corvette for a Prostreet or Crazy Mods. I have a 74 L82 with macthing numbers and wish I could more to it. FWIW

 

So, Any shaving / decking at all will lesson the value of the car ?, Or how about if its been decked and can still easily read the the #s, Versus you can still see them but faintly/ barely. If very faint can you or should still call it #S mathing. Is there a line or is it all or nothing. Thanks

 

No offense taken. Matching numbers are always nice to have.

 

If you can still make out the stamped numbers (after a block 'clean-up'), then whatever value that provides to that car is still there. When you can't make them out, it's gone.

And, "Yes"; if the block has been machined (decked) to where you can't see them anymore, you can never prove that engine is original to the car.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

There's no set or agreed definition of 'numbers matching' so you can call it whatever you like.