The frame is ready for the sand blaster who is picking it up on Monday. Meanwhile, I set up an electrolysis tank using a 34 gallon plastic trash can, 5 2ft pieces of rebar, some wire connecting the rebar, water and washing soda. Here's the first results ... this is amazingly easy. The upper control arm before, in the tank and after a light brushing/rinsing. I had it in the tank for about 4 hours.

 

Here's a picture of the electrolysis once I connected my battery charger. On the 12 volt setting, it was drawing almost 9 amps so I knocked it down to 6 volts dropping the amperage to about 4 amps.

 

Badass setup.

Look like you're doing it indoor from the picture.
Make sure you ventilate well, the process releases hydrogen, thus it's potentially explosive.

 

Nice build! It gets even more fun when he parts start coming back together, the only problem is, that is when the build starts slowing down. don't give up my friend!

Also, dont be too amazed if the exhaust manifolds do not have gaskets on them, that is how they came from the factory. Machined surface to machined surface. As for no bolts on the back of one, yes that was bubba at his finest!

 

It is indoor but i only use it with the garage door open...still...glad you posted the warning...safe first.

I never knew that gm didn't use a gasket between the head and manifold...i guess i've had too many fords. Learning something evertime I Work on the car...at 58 I'm enjoying every hour.

Thanks guys.

 

The frame is out of the garage and at the sand blast shop. Time to scrub the garage floor tonight.

I'll go examine it when they are done and check for bad welds or cracks. I didn't see any before it was blasted. If the frame is decent and square, I'm going to have them prime it. I'm not having the frame powder coated and will put a couple coats of satin black rustoleum on it.

I'll have to repair the rear body mount on the driver side and the front mount on the passenger side ... both are thin. The metal cap at the rear end of the driver side main frame is also thin on the bottom so I'll repair that also. That's all I know at the moment.

 

I got the frame back from the sand blasting/priming. Started to work he repairs. The lower part of the left side main rail was rotted through and I have to replace about 5 inches of metal there. Not a big deal, just a lot of cutting ... a band saw would have been nice to have but made do with my sawzall. I have a huge steel supply warehouse just a few miles away so the 12 gauge sheet steel was easy to find along with a couple of structural washers I'll need to repair 2 motor mounts. Here are a few pictures ...

 

Repaired the rear driver side body mount today...all of the other mounts are solid.

 

Question: My frame has a seam about one foot in front of the tranny cross member, both sides. Normal? I didn't notice it until it was sand blasted.

 

Hi bwst,
I saw a frame for sale at Carlisle that made your frame look like a gem.
I really think it was the rustiest frame I've ever seen.
I really think 15-20%, maybe more, of the steel was simply gone. I think someone was interested in it for the frame horns which for some reason were o.k..
You're making nice progress. Are you having a good time?
Regards,
Alan

No 'seam' I can think of along the frame rail. Does it run completley around the frame rail

 

I'll take a picture of it tonight and post. On the inside of the frame, on both sides, there also are 6" pieces of steel plate. Each plate has 4 hose drilled in it. On the top of the frame, just above the plates, I can see "L" shaped seams where the front and back frames are welded together.

 

Since your frame is cleaned and you look to be a competent welder, if I was you I'd redo the frame crappy welds and reinforce the frame as instructed in the Chevy Power Manual.

 

I did think about it but decided not to. The frame has held up this long and I won't be hard on it once it's done. It's held up for almost 40 years, it will hold up a lot longer. I just want to make sure it is safe and reliable.

In about 10 spots, I noticed welds that were too small or incomplete. I did fix those.

Here is a couple pictures of the "seam" I was describing ... the blue circle is the mount for the tranny cross member. The red circle is where the seam is and the metal plate I mentioned. It is the same on both sides of the frame.



Here is a closer picture of the same area ...

 

 

Alan 71 : Am I having a good time? Oh yea. Not so much with the dirt/grime and grease ... can't say I enjoy that part.

I still have all the rear suspension parts that I didn't start to clean yet. But, the front suspension is all clean and just waiting for paint.

 

Hi b,
It looks like some work/modification was done to the frame in that area.
It doesn't appear to be typical.
I don't know what or why though. ANY chance this is a 'wedded' front and rear sections of 2 frames?
Regards,
Alan

 

Hi bw

Not sure whats going on but i can see all of your red lines. haha.

Project is comming along nicely keep up the good work.

 

 

I would tend to agree with Alan, in that it looks like your frame was two frames grafted together.

 

I've looked at 4 different images of C3 frames, one was a 75. None of them appear to have a seam or the steel plates where my frame has them. So, I'm assuming this car was either hit hard or the front or rear had been replaced because of rust. I'll never know. I bought the car for a song and continue to find "stuff" each week.

The seam is very solid and appears to have been done by an experienced shop. The welds are solid and the "L" shaped seam would add strength. I suspect then added the plates for additional support but I doubt they are really necessary.

I had checked the frame for square, corner to corner and it was right on. Now, before I go any further, I'm going to turn the frame right-side up, level it on jack stands and then check more of the measurements against the frame drawing.