Folks,
I am new to corvettes and trying to learn as much as possible before making a purchase. I am looking at a 72 project car. It has an Eckler's one piece front end already bonded to it. I have a couple questions about this. What is the advantage / disadvantage of this type of front end? Where is it bonded? Is this an acceptable modification or should it be replaced by factory parts? Is it noticeably different outside appearance or is it made to original specs / dimensions outside?
Kevin

 

Hi Kevin,
The one piece front clip is bonded to the cowl and inner fenders like a factory style assembled clip. The appearance differences are really only notable from under the car. I know ?, but that matters to some people.
One of the main advantages of the one piece is it's low cost compared to an assembled clip. Some people find them easier to fit and others don't.
Cars get hit and new front clips are required.... NOW OPINION.... personally I wouldn't put a one piece on a car I cared about. I wouldn't buy a car with a one piece clip. This is because I'm interested in originality. I think it's just one of many things to be considered when evaluating a car.
I think the more valuable a car is, the greater the effect a one piece clip has on it.
There ARE other opinions!
Regards,
Alan

 

welcome and good question-

like Alan stated- you need to have an understanding of what you are buying

a very original high$$ car then one piece clip not so good due to impact on value

a good restored car that is a driver not so original..but not so $$

then it probably doesn't matter

My advice is to have a plan for the long term of the car, if that plan includes drive it and have fun and who cares if its all factory correct

then the 1 piece clip doesn't matter much

hope that helps

 

Ease of bonding it on and saving time. Factory front clips were comprised of six or seven separate fiberglass pieces held in a jig and bonded together as one assembly before being bonded to the car. Without the factory jig, installing a clip is a bit more time consuming. Birthplace of Legends has several assembly line pics showing a factory clip, in the jig, being bonded together.

At the cowl. Purchase the assembly instruction manual (AIM) and take a look at the diagrams showing the factory bonding points.

Up to you. Have you seen the car? How did it look? For judging purposes, one piece clips will cost you points.

The one piece clip should be the same dimensions and have the same appearance as the original factory pieces.

You will want to ask the seller why the car needed the replacement clip in the first place. The usual suspect is collision repair.

Good luck.

 

Speaking from experience:

I have installed factory press molded panels and also one piece front clips. There are differences to the trained eye. I can pick out a one piece aftermarket clip in a few seconds after I open the hood...or if the hood is closed...looking at some of the contours/body lines will show it right away.


FYI
Many people do not implement the bonding strips in a one piece front clip....and some do...like myself. It is not so much so when you feel up in the inner fender that you feel the strip. It is mainly for the area where the bumper attaches is spaced out correctly so the brackets will attach as designed. Without the bonding strip...there is a gap and a potential problem.

Then there is the work that is required so the factory style clips that aid in securing the upper fender trims can be installed correctly. Also the metal plate that need to be installed so that the screw that is used to also hold these trim pieces has something to grab onto like the factory designed....instead of using the fiberglass only.

Nothing wrong... in my opinion... by using or having a one piece front clip...but in no way is it easier to install. There are "trade-offs". More time will be spent MAKING the one piece front end look correct and FIT so some like Alan71( and others) would walk up on it.... and would literally have to look on the inside of the panel to see that it is not a factory press molded front end.

DUB

 

Folks,
Thanks so much for your responses and explanations. This again is exactly the type of info I wanted. I just sold a numbers matching SS 454 Chevelle that was a garage queen. pull it out of the garage wash it look at it drive it a little bit then back in the garage. I want a project to really drive and make it what I want.
The car is a project and is completely dis assembled. How can I tell by looking at it unassembled if it was bonded in the correct spot. I won't be able to tell is the bumpers will line up unless I try to mount them before I purchase the car. If the gaps at the cowl and doors are good does this mean it is good? Any quick ways to measure or tricks?
Kevin

 

When doing an inspection, I generally reduce the value of a car with a one piece nose, by $5,000. This is probably low though, when you figure that a correct, jig assembled, press molded nose; sells for about $5,000. On top of that, you have the labor to remove the old nose, install the new one, and the labor and material to repaint the nose, or whole car. The $5,000 number is for a restored, stock automobile. I wouldn't put as big a hit on a modified car, a wrong motor one, or a project car that's not destined to become a correct restoration.

I'd be very careful about buying a disassembled car, with a one piece nose. I can't really tell you any way to actually measure it's placement. For me personally, it's more a matter of just eyeing up it's position and gaps.

There's really only one place and way, to bond the nose on. The fender sides and rear of the top surround, get bonded to the cowl. It's the only place that you really can bond it.

When a nose is bonded on wrong, your only talking about fractions of an inch. The problem is that being to far forward or back, or high or low, by a quarter of an inch; can cause all kinds of fit issues with the hood, doors, wiper door, wiper grill, inner skirts, rear fender moldings, rocker moldings etc.

I've also seen cars that have had the nose installed, where to much of the cowl was ground away, before installing the nose. What happens in this case, is the opening for the hood and wiper door, becomes to narrow, screwing up the gaps, and causing trouble installing the wiper door and hood.

I'd want to see the car, with the hood and wiper door installed, including hinges, hood support, and the wiper door mechanism. This would give you a good indication, if everything lines up and functions properly. If all of that stuff, isn't bolted in place, you could be in for quite a surprise later.

 

Good morning

Some very good information here! These folks have you covered Kevin! If you have any further question's that we can help you with, please feel free to ask!

Thank you,

- Eckler's Family of Automotive Parts.

 

I put on a single piece front nose on my 72. That said you can't tell the difference if it's done correctly unless you go searching underneath the car for bonding strips. When I hydroplaned and crashed my car the front nose was greatly damaged. Frame is fine and rest of structure except where the radiator was punctured. I opted for the single piece from Eckler's because the price was like under $1500 compared to the jig fit built one that was close to $3500. My car has been returned to the original paint color and factory interior black as well as everything else cleaned and repaired. I would not pay top dollar for this but I don't think I would say it gets knocked $5000.00 either. I also do not plan to ever show my car or have it judged at an NCRS meet, just maybe some local shows and cruising with the corvette club. It's my car that I plan on keeping and driving. All the measurements and curves are just the same as the stock nose was. Perfect and pretty.

I agree with others with not putting it on a rare car or something like an L-88 but for most cars if done correctly just like the press molded jig built nose, it is just fine. Guess it depends on what you are doing with the car.

hth,

Sully

 

I installed a one piece front end on my "Basketcase" about 5-6 years ago, it still looks good and is holding up well.
I had no issues with it fitting correctly, but did the measure, check measure, and check again about 12 times before I bonded it. The single most important thing is to install the hood when measuring and marking to get the height correct, because if the hood is higher than the clip it will never align and you will hear stories about how bad the one piece clip fits.

Here it is right after paint.


and after a few years of driving

 

picture 3 really shows how well it fits. Lookin good 427!!!

Terry