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I own a 1969 Corvette C3 and I recently converted the old 454 Big Block to a LS2 engine but the rpm tachometer stopped working. I was told by the mechanic that I need to convert the rpm tachometer from mechanical to electrical so it can adapt to the new system (ECU). I need help with the conversion and what to use to connect it straight into the ECU, because when connecting it to HP Tuner, the rpm works fine, it's just the gauge that isn't responding.
Thanks.
I own a 1969 Corvette C3 and I recently converted the old 454 Big Block to a LS2 engine but the rpm tachometer stopped working. I was told by the mechanic that I need to convert the rpm tachometer from mechanical to electrical so it can adapt to the new system (ECU). I need help with the conversion and what to use to connect it straight into the ECU, because when connecting it to HP Tuner, the rpm works fine, it's just the gauge that isn't responding.
Thanks.
Previous owner of my '73 converted from mechanical tach to electronic by using the tach from a '75 Vette. It looked just like the existing speedo so worked well. Not sure if your '69 speedo would match but it might. Later, I converted all gauges to Auto Meter and I'm happy with that choice.
You can buy an electric tach for a '75. I'm not sure which years have the same needle sweep but I don't think an 80's tach would work. You can transfer the face from your existing tach to the electric tach guts pretty easily.
To get the tach reading correctly I believe the tach setting has to be set to 3 with the tuner.
I haven't set my tach to 3 yet so it reads low but it does work.
You can buy an electric tach for a '75. I'm not sure which years have the same needle sweep but I don't think an 80's tach would work. You can transfer the face from your existing tach to the electric tach guts pretty easily.
To get the tach reading correctly I believe the tach setting has to be set to 3 with the tuner.
I haven't set my tach to 3 yet so it reads low but it does work.
Rick B.
Hey Rick,
The ^75 is a bit different than the 69, it would work but I'm trying to keep the interior as authentic as possible. Thanks
I think you need to buy a quality one Electric relay that can give quick and adequate response to your work. I've done this type of project at my school level in my subject of Electrical. At that level it was successful. But the thing you are doing I'm not pretty sure. But I'll ask it my teacher for you.
GenIII and IV motors need a 4cylinder tach from what I am told. If you use a 75/76 Vette tach the reading won't be right. Also face colors are different than 68/71 faces lettering has greenish tint to it.
Hey Rick,
The ^75 is a bit different than the 69, it would work but I'm trying to keep the interior as authentic as possible. Thanks
Like I said, you have to transfer the face from your existing tach to the electric tach internals. Then you have the correct face with the electric internals. I had to do the same thing with my 72 tach.
GenIII and IV motors need a 4cylinder tach from what I am told. If you use a 75/76 Vette tach the reading won't be right. Also face colors are different than 68/71 faces lettering has greenish tint to it.
Cut the tach wire in half lengthwise and put half of the strands to ground so half the pulses go directly to ground, then you'll get a 4-cylinder signal.
I bought a new circuit board from Willcox to go on the back of the 75-77 housing. I also bought a replacement filter that goes between the distributor/source and the circuit board.
Cut the tach wire in half lengthwise and put half of the strands to ground so half the pulses go directly to ground, then you'll get a 4-cylinder signal.
Will I have to do this when I do my conversion? My motor is an 88, but my car is a 73. I have an aftermarket ACCEL HEI dist. (if that matters)
Will I have to do this when I do my conversion? My motor is an 88, but my car is a 73. I have an aftermarket ACCEL HEI dist. (if that matters)
Sorry, it was a bad joke. Electricity doesn't actually work that way. The pulses will split equally to each side and max current will be cut in about half.
Sorry, it was a bad joke. Electricity doesn't actually work that way. The pulses will split equally to each side and max current will be cut in about half.
lol I don't know much about electricity currents - other than "disconnect the battery or get shocked!", and "connect the ground first".