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Bypassing tach filter prevents engine from starting?

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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 11:55 PM
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Default Bypassing tach filter prevents engine from starting?

The tach isn’t working in my ’79 and I tried the method Willcox suggests to test the filter – bypass the filter by plugging the tach wire directly into the distributor and see if the problems go away. I did that and the car wouldn’t start, it just cranked. Plugged the filter back in the way it was, and it fired right up.

I’m not sure why the tach wiring would prevent the engine from firing. This doesn’t sound right. Can anybody tell me what’s going on?
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 01:54 AM
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The re-routing apparently drained the pulse signal such that there was no 'trigger' to send the plugs any spark.
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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My tach filter was not connected when I bought my 78 and it starts without it ... What does the tach filter do ??
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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The tach wire between filter and tach is touching a ground. When you bypassed the filter, you grounded the coil = no start.

You either have bad insulation on the wire or the tach itself has failed in a way where the signal wire gets grounded.
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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That 'filter' removes unwanted spikes and spurious pulses from the tach signal line, so that only the ignition pulses are detected. If that is not in the circuit, the tach usually reads high, is jumpy, or is erratic.

If the filter is in the circuit and it is defective, you are liable to get anything with the tach reading, depending on how that filter circuit has failed.
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRedRed
The tach isn’t working in my ’79 and I tried the method Willcox suggests to test the filter – bypass the filter by plugging the tach wire directly into the distributor and see if the problems go away. I did that and the car wouldn’t start, it just cranked. Plugged the filter back in the way it was, and it fired right up.

I’m not sure why the tach wiring would prevent the engine from firing. This doesn’t sound right. Can anybody tell me what’s going on?
Are you sure you un-plugged the tach wire and not the marked coil? There should be two wires that plug into the distributor...
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RedRedRed
The tach isn’t working in my ’79 and I tried the method Willcox suggests to test the filter – bypass the filter by plugging the tach wire directly into the distributor and see if the problems go away. I did that and the car wouldn’t start, it just cranked. Plugged the filter back in the way it was, and it fired right up.

I’m not sure why the tach wiring would prevent the engine from firing. This doesn’t sound right. Can anybody tell me what’s going on?
Simple. The raw tach signal is the C- side of the ignition coil (the same place that the points are hooked to in older Corvettes). If that point (C- terminal) is continually shorted to ground (or has too little resistance to ground) it will be prevented from allowing the coil's magnetic field to collapse quickly, which is a key ingredient for the coil to generate high voltages (which then go to the plug). The filter has a high input impedance (which means it doesn't short the C- terminal to ground) which allows the C- terminal to jump up to a couple hundred volts every time the primary current is switched off. The transformer action of the coil then bumps that voltage up to several thousands on the secondary, which then arcs in the plug gap.

Analogy: The Tach circuit board in the dash is acting just like a pair of points that never open. Result: No spark.
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Are you sure you un-plugged the tach wire and not the marked coil? There should be two wires that plug into the distributor...
Yes, it was the tach wire. I went and tried it again, and it starts now with the filter bypassed. I don't know what caused it to fail yesterday... I did exactly the same thing. There are no abrasions or any other problems with the tach wire as far as I can see it before it goes into the harness wrap.

I test drove it with the filter bypassed and the tach has the same erratic behavior. When I just turn the ignition on without starting the engine, the tach needle pegs past 7,000 and just sits there. So that indicates the problem was not the filter, correct?

I guess the next step is removing the tach and trouble shooting it per your info. I'll let you know what I find.

BTW, I already have a new filter from you on the way. Is it best not to install it until I figure out the problem with the tach, or will the filter not be damaged by a faulty tach?

Thanks,

Ken
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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Since you are getting the same behavior its safe to say the issue is not the filter and more than likely the board.

I'd try to figure the issue out first and then either keep the original filter when fixed, and keep the new one as a spare back up.

Willcox
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 04:12 PM
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Will running without the tach filter connected damage the tach ?
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 06:21 PM
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Maybe....
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Maybe....
Mine had been disconnected at some point, and my tach did work,I was curious so I re connected it this afternoon, and the tach still works. So I will leave it connected..
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 10:24 PM
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Default 76 c3 tach filter

When i took the tach wire from fire wall out of plug (No Filter) and put it into The Dist cap,The tach works got a new tach filter wired up then put into filter nothing ,Put wire back into cap works but when you shut car off tach does not go to zero but if you turn key on no start goes to zero confused Do i need Filter thanks
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 10:12 PM
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Hello, reading this thread after posting the following (potentially in relation to the tachometer filter):

"Hello, looking for some guidance with an inexplicable engine malfunction; engine will crank but will not turn over. After cranking for some time, with no signs of firing, there is no noticeable scent of fuel, as may be expected after pumping the gas pedal repeatedly with no firing. Leading up to this malfunction, the following series of events / maintenance occurred in this order:

Car was driven without a tachometer filter and there were not noticeable issues (other than an inoperable tachometer, which was expected).
Air cleaner was removed, to better access top of the engine block for cleaning.
Vacuum pick-up line for head lights was temporarily disconnected.
New tachometer filter was bought and installed.
Various wires located near the firewall on the drivers side of the distributor were disconnected for ease of access to cover in braided wire wrap, and plugged back in the same location.
Attempted to start the car, and engine only cranked, but would not turn over. Smoke was observed at the newly installed tachometer filter. Removed the tachometer filter and car still would not start.

My initial thought with the smoking tachometer filter is that there may not have been a suitable ground, or it was installed backwards. This is an issue that needs to be fixed, however i am at a loss for ideas, as to why the engine will not turn over. Is it possible that the tachometer filter issues may have damaged something in the distributor? Any guidance / suggestions / lessons learned would be appreciated. Prior to this malfunction there have been no issues with starting or driving our 1980; car has been approximately 75% restored, most of the engine compartment is new and has been operating properly for over two years."

What seems to be different in my case, is that the car fired with no issues while the tachometer filter was removed.

Let me know if anyone has a thought as to where to go from here.

Thanks!
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