Doorgunner's '68 Convertible Project





Plan #2 is...YANK the engine and transmission/clean and paint both...week 2
Plan #3 is...clean repair engine bay and paint....week 3
Plan #4 is...finish fiberglass repair on front clip then paint it...week 4
Looks like June is booked up


I don't see anything wwwwwrong with the front......





(I've been known to go nuts and bond EVERYTHING with the resin and mat
)Just great...
the electric attic ventilator fan just crashed...
time for a new motor tomorrow










...Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 11, 2023 at 02:31 AM.





True about muffling the noise...it only sounds like thunder in the garage !
Ohhhhh....who said I'll find the passenger door Locking mechanism in the last place I look? I looked in the last place....there it was.....
Down at the bottom of the passenger door ,

Also trying to stay on schedule this month...the seats needed cleanig, re-dyeing, and new bottom foam...
The color is actuall Deep Red (the camera gave it a slightly brown tint)
More news at 10:00
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 11, 2023 at 04:26 PM.





The kick panels had a hard life...they look decent now......
Same thing with the seat back panels.......
(never hide beer bottles behind the seat when the Po-Po pulls you over)





for anyone adding Cats
to a Convertible to eliminate Exhaust Smell!
(yeah...I know...Cats are Evil)I SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT CATS FOR A 5.0L-6.0L ENGINE !
So I figured....one Cat for each exhaust manifold = 6.0L combined.....WRONG !
The Cats must have been designed more for 2.5L engines than 3.0L engines meaning I only have 5.0 L of exhaust flow rather than 6.0 L combined.
Now I realize I should have bought Cats for 4.0-5.0 Liter engines so the exhaust manifold temp would not be so high...100 degrees hotter than pre-Cat exhausts.
I realize Cats will raise the exhaust temp because of restricted flow, BUT...I didn't have this problem on my '34 SBC street truck---
I did buy those Cats from an American manufacturer in 2010.
The eye-burning exhaust smell has been eliminated completely, but the exhaust isn't as free-flowing as a flow-through Cat should be that I have used in the past.
It's a good thing I have sidepipes on the car to help with exhaust flow.
BUT...why let that little problem ruin my day.
I bought a 1/8" diameter drill 18" long and drilled 30 equally spaced vent holes thru the ceramic honeycomb from front-to-rear.
The exhaust temp dropped 50 degrees and the exhaust smell is still eliminated.
)Last edited by doorgunner; Apr 21, 2024 at 05:50 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts






IF...I...could have done everything right the FIRST TIME...
I WOULD HAVE FINISHED IT 9 YEARS AGO





I blasted the plates, retapped the holes , re-riveted the plates in place.
Annnd then ran out of new bolts
So I bagged the painted parts to keep them clean.
Then laid the passenger carpet and bolted the passenger seat in place…
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 12, 2023 at 11:37 PM.





Plan #1 is...dash, carpet, seats, doorglass seals...
Plan #2 is...YANK the engine and transmission/clean and paint both...week
Plan #3 is...clean repair engine bay and paint....week
Plan #4 is...finish fiberglass repair on front clip then paint it...

The stainless window trim didn't look right...the left trim piece went across the buffing wheel to get some shine...the right piece is still covered with oxide....
Test-fitting the outer rubber trim...it will get some Tire-Shine once the trim is screwed onto the door.....
The inner side of the stainless outer window trim gets a space age double-row rubber seal........
(tip: make sure you have the rubber seal exactly where you want it...the 3M adhesive "don't play"

What a mess....
I need to remove the worn original inner door panel-rubber overlap trim and also the worn-out felt strip. I'm waiting on a shipment of stainless-backed Felt Strips and a roll of wide rubber trim that will overlap the door panel.....
The door panel needs renewing after 10 years...need to polish the chrome trim/repaint the inserts and re-dye the panel.
Time to hit the auto parts store for screws bolts acetone-to degrease de-fingerprint the panel before re-dying.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 15, 2023 at 07:55 PM.





The outer trim with new seals is installed/it turned out good considering it's a rebuild using the original stainless moulding.
The glass has 5 areas that need scratches buffed out

Fresh wet satin black dye on the scrubbed door panel...I'm hoping the sheen will disappear
once the dye dries (very humid down south today). I'll clean up the overspray on the chrome trim tonite....(yes...the Velcro wasn't grabbing, so Icheated and used uphostery screws/washers to hold the warped door panel flat against the door body

The PTSD has been slowing me to a crawl...which is slightly slower than I usually go.
(I may as well keep re-re-minding myself.....)
Plan #1 is...dash, carpet, seats, doorglass seals...
Plan #2 is...YANK the engine and transmission/clean and paint both...week
Plan #3 is...clean repair engine bay and paint....week
Plan #4 is...finish fiberglass repair on front clip then paint it...
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 16, 2023 at 12:14 AM.






It seems the windows traveled MUCH easier a few years ago....so while I was at it I let the camera take a look.....every mechanism was coated with sanding dust. THAT is a channel and roller in there ........
NASTY........
5 /Five hours later stuff looked better...to bad I didn't take pre-disassembly pics.......
I did manage to scribble a diagram of the door glass......
Back to the garage to see if the paint is dry.





While I was at it...heat & sound material......
Everything is in there except the glass...nice bright reflection from the h/s material
Some REAL artificial felt strips with STAINLESS backing just arrived......
Now I can finish the passenger door and do the driver door.





While I was waiting on the above I removed the metal tabs at the bottom of the door channels and elongated the adjustment slots so the down-stops could be adjusted as low as possible to prevent the top of the glass interfering with installation of screws.
I then installed the door glass and got it close enough to be able to close the door.
I followed another member's advice and loosened all the adjustment bolts/nuts.
I sat in the passenger seat/closed the door and moved the glass up-down/forward-backward until the leading edge of the glass fit into the window frame weatherstrip...then tightened all the bolts/nuts. A couple tweaks later it fit evenly in the weatherstrip...
It took about 45 minutes total time to install the door glass and adjust the window to fit the window frame vertical weatherstrip.....
Tomorrow I will rivet the felt strips in place on the inner stainless steel trim piece...then install it next to the yellow primer/felt against the glass......
Within the last year I managed to splash some white enamel paint on the door skin without realizing it on my way out of the garage (PTSD
)...a few days later I went back to the garage and saw the mess I had made. No problem-some polishing compound and 20 minutes of rubbing removed the problem paint today....
White paint all gone..............
Thanks everyone for all the tips that made the door trim/weatherstrip/hardware/glass much easier to install !
Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 22, 2023 at 09:07 PM.








