Here in Loo-z-anna somebody scooped up all the 4L60(no E) transmissions....the TH700s are non-existent....they seem to be a better investment than Wall Street.

The 4L60E I scored from my friend had no major internal damage. It was several small problems that caused it to lose 3-4 gears. Two checkballs hammered through the separator plate causing over-pressure causing a valve body gasket to fail where 5 bolts were NEVER torqued at the factory causing a servo to bottom out...etc
I was amazed the pan was spotless...my friend must have done yearly maintenance to the trans.

 

Here we go with the rebuild, These three guys helped alot.........





Now for the assembling of the rear half of the internal parts............

Testing main servo check ball.............it's good if it drips into servo bore.....







Testing rear drum check ball...........it's good if it drips into rear case......




Testing drum internal check ball.....it's good if it drips into inside of drum...




The hollow shaft end is clean if it drips out of hole....




Installing new seals on rear piston........



Soaking clutch discs........



Installing rear piston.......




Compressing spring assembly and snap ring......




Installing thrust bearing and gear housing into case.....





Installing gear assembly into gear housing.......



Checking steel plate to make sure it is the wave plate........

OOOOPS...forgot to take pics of install steel plates and clutch friction discs.


Installing weird U-shaped case spring.....




Installing clutch pack cover plate and snap ring,,,,,




Pressurizing bottom piston to check that new seals do not leak when piston moves to the left......




Transmission I.D. ..........



Installing tang spacer.........




Installing lower sun gear.......




Installing sun gear-drive housing and bronze thrust washer.......




Installing second gear assembly.....




Installing output shaft thru rear of case and installing shaft snap ring..........






NOW I can accurately measure how thick the tail housing adapter needs to be machined.



Locating different areas where speedo drive tail shaft housing can work correctly...
Reluctor gear must be removed in this pic for housing to work correctly....


Reluctor gear left side.....



Rear dimensions on output shaft where speedo drive gear can be located.....





WHEW !

 

Personally I like it just as a modern art piece ... if you fail as a tranny mechanic, I really think you have a future as an artist! 👩‍🎨

It looks like an expression for “social circles for Covid times” Kinda has a ring to it!

Good work man.

Dave

 

Ring to it!!!! I see what you did...

 

ice work Tony!
Very interesting.
Thanks for sharing.

 

Artist?



Did what? Yes....I'm slow.

Well...you guys wanted pics

3 hours just to assemble the lower half of the internal parts! That's got to be some kind of record...maybe for a Chimpanzee.

Never mind the rubbing noise...the transmission is leaning on the stand causing the rotating housing to be temporarily off center.....also, the skreeching noise is the sprag when rotated in reverse direction-normal sound according to rebuild videos.....



I guess the skreech would explain the sound when the car is backing out a long driveway?




an! It's a pain to learn how to post Youtube videos...I get a different result every time

 

I test fitted the new gaskets for the valve body.........last nite...the original gasket was blown out because the corner bolts were never torqued at the factory......





Annnnnnd....I made it to my friends machine shop and finished the transmission adapter. The 4L60E now has a speedometer cable drive tail housing......

Well Shucks/Gee whiz.....I machined, painted, and installed the adapter......and I'M having trouble locating the installed piece between the trans case and the tail housing....






You can barely see the reluctor gear. I will have to heat it and move it forward as much as possible to have room for the speedo drive gear. I will machine a hole in the other side of the tail housing so the Speed Sensor will function..I will need it to send info to the aftermarket trans controller.
I'll have to take the new adapter off and get some pics of it.

 

Those "divots" around the 6 edges are what is left of bolt holes that did not line up with the threaded case holes. It seems GM decided to drill 1 hole offset from the rest...so, when I machine the other 5 holes none lined up with the case holes. I had to elongate 1 hole so all the others would match the case threaded holes (WHEW!)

 

table full of rings......

 

I never read that book.

 

 

I put the 4L60E on the back burner for a week or two...I need to wrap up the interior (again)........

I "got all fancy" and covered the underside of the deck lid with headliner........





Re-recovering the EXTENDED cargo floor after pressure washing 7 months of sanding dust off it (you guys told me to install the carper last )........that black rubber elbow is the filler neck from the gas tank to the hidden gas cap.
The jute padding is where the original beyond-repair gas tank fit...the new fabricated rectangular tanks is now under the jute pad/floorboard......



Now to let the carpet settle and re-conform to the wheel wellls again.....




Tidying up the rear compartments (again)..........



Remember...don't tell my wife I used her dog leash to make pull handles for the compartment doors (she's been looking for that leash for 6 years now)




Annnnnnd....this is how you know when your full tube of Black Weatherstrip Adhesive has expired.........the deck lid weatherstrip will have to wait 'til tomorrow....

 

I think that's how the first bungee cord was invented....

 

Great work as always.

 

I found more adhesive/applied it to the sides of the deck lid and stretched the weatherstrip/it's held in place with painter's tape for 24 hrs. to completely cure......

I marked the center of the deck lid and the center of the weatherstrip before gluing the dog-legs to the underside of the lid.
Today I stretched passenger's side and driver's side weatherstrip/glued and taped into place.
Tomorrow I will glue and tape the weatherstrip under the bottom edge of the lid (it has been stretched so the marks line up.

I sprayed some paint on the door hinge adjusting bolts so I would have witness marks to fine-tune the door gap at the passenger quarter panel.....


I did the same on all 4 locations.

 

THIS is why I don't work on the car when the PTSD is acting up......

The driver door was 1/8" low...so I adjusted it .......




Maybe I can get this w/s right on the 1st try.......




Glued and taped...I'll give it 24 hrs. to cure......(ignore the reflection from the chrome vent grill).....




Installing machined trim ring and rebuilt door push-button assy..........





The 3M Black w/s adhesive is some good stuff (fingers in pic above )

 

So it's not just me that can't use that stuff without getting it all over my hands. I just did that a couple hours ago. Maybe if I'm lucky, it'll be gone by mid next week.

 

PTSD. sometimes the results of the work are not the be-all end-all. you spend an hour a day when hit with it, you are in better shape than if you just sat there and stared out the window. even if you hadda do it all over again, it was worth it. cuz you didn't let it beat you.

 

Low odor mineral spirits is your friend! Lou.

 

THANKS LOU! The V.A. has me taking every anti-depressant known to man to treat the PTSD.......

I may as well try a tablespoon of mineral oil.