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Thanks O.C.B. it will do, considering the great work you guys are putting into your projects. While the PTSD is on vacation I'm getting as much done as I can.
(remember: according to the V.A, Shrink I'm only able to use 60% of my brain)
Enough for now/
I may as well repair those 6 thumbsize holes in the firewall so I can reinstall the engine/trans. I'll wrap the engine-trans. to keep it fiberglass-dust free.
It will be great to drag the front clip into the garage and finish the repairs so I can re-fit it to the firewall.
I may or not have mentioned those are the 64 c.c. heads that I installed this week...
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 6, 2024 at 02:23 AM.
I would love to see the nose back on your car soon!!!
Me three! I spent the day repairing 6 holes in the firewall...they were worse than I thought, but you guys have taught me how to do things. The repairs are curing, then I will apply Gloss Black (yeah...ugly on a non-smooth surface) but Gloss resist water and grime so much better.
I'll post pics tonight.
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 6, 2024 at 07:03 PM.
This is the part that was rusted/seized. The previous owner closed the hood so many times that the hood mechanism broke the entire firewall mount and drove the hood lock down about an inch.
I rebuilt the firewall mount much thicker on the underside to prevent future damage.
Thanks ARG...those "thumbsize" holes in the firewall turned into golf ball size once i cleaned the areas for fiberglass repair.
Its time to clean the shop floor since i ruined the surface working on. The engine and transmission.
i Did find a used tach drive distributor locally...will have to get it this afternoon since im tired of replacing failed electronics in the bulky HEI dist. I have been using for 10 years.
The tack needed a hammer/chisel to break it loose from the intake.I took my time freeing it...considering the (drive still is in working condition) oily grime saved the housing and just enough oil IN the housing to keep the bushings lubricated...
BRACE yourself...it's not a pretty sight...it's ready for disassembly and sandblasting...
In other news the frozen hood latch got a sandblasting to free it up...
Please ignore the crud for now...the mounting pad is rebuilt/re-inforced....sandind the repair later to make the Gloss Black happy...
While I'm at it I also am cleaning/re-wrapping the wiring harnesses.
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 7, 2024 at 09:09 PM.
Annnnd more sandblasting...first pass to get the 1/8" thick layer of crud off.....
There was no slack in the bushings, pivot pins, driven crossgear. It DID have a new Mallory Ignition kit installed which I will toss because of the flood waters from Katrina in New Orleans.
I bought all the dist. stuff...
naturally the rotor cap had metric bolts in it so I went a size larger with U,S. bolts.
Naturally the dist. advance mounting holes were 1/8" off so I enlarged the mounting bracket holes 1/8" each.
Naturally the points mounting plate was 1/8" off so I enlarged the screw holes 1/8"
each.
Naturally the dist. cap hold-down screws only locked facing outward rather than inboard...it;s going to get exchanged....
I think I'm going with the black dist. on the left I just rebuilt.....
Now I won't be hosing the shop wall down with fresh 60 psi engine oil !
The CORRECT distributor cap......
NOTE: PLUG MANIFOLD CHROME PORT Check!
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 12, 2024 at 09:24 AM.
More small steps after deliveries from parts warehouses....
I think I'll mount the coil on the firewall with the heat sink on a bracket to get some cool air circulation. I'll do the wiring when my little brain is much less f(r)oggy.
I DID crank the engine again with the old HEI dist and ran it for about 10 seconds....NO blue smoke/NO black smoke
I have the original resistor wire and Start wire taped away in the engine harness. I'll have to find them/unwrap them so I won't need the big ceramic resistor once the engine is re-installed.
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 12, 2024 at 05:13 AM.
RATS! 2 hours of wondering what I wired up wrong. Then I tested a stand-alone condenser off my garage shelf (that will not fit the new points/different set-up-the condenser screws into the points plate rather than being bolted to the vacuum plate)/
My new points/condenser combo lasted 5 minutes. The condenser gave up...no wonder the engine would run only 5-6 seconds at a time. I knew better than to buy it from A.Z.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
for now/
