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Tony, have you any tricks to make more space behind the panel?
Dave
I wondered about that but the wiring harness limits changes that could be made. It would be great to run the dash harness completely against the interior firewall (behing the airbox) and have long leads with quik disconnects to all the. Gauges and shifter console.
I really had to work at it to get the center gauge cluster/Radio into place. The thick part of the wiring harness that runs in front of the airbox kept blocking the rear of the radio from sliding back far enough to install the side- mounting screws that hold the center guge panel in place.
Last edited by doorgunner; May 14, 2024 at 10:01 AM.
The "Final Assault" on the door glass fit has begun. A month of hanging on the pegboard has the top wrinkled again
The front-top of the glass has a 5/8" gap and 1/4" gap oat the top rear of the glass. The entire front edge of the glass needs to move rearward 1/8".
The Blue tape is a guide for adjusting the glass upward.......
While I am adjusting the door glass I have the door panel on saw horses with 50 lbs. bucket on it to remove the arch which prevents the panel from sitting flat against the metal part of the door. I want a 1/2" concave arch on the panel which will be pulled flush by long "Resto-mod" panel screws.
Right now there is only 1/16" concave arch which will not allow the panel to lay flat....
I tried for 2hours (PTSD) to adjust the glass upward 1/2"...
.it didn't happen even with the upper stops removed following the manuals
So I raise the window on the passenger door and it went up perfectly into/onto the weatherstrip.
The problem seems to be something/long bolt installed in the wr..wr...wrong place.
I'll remove the felt strips tomorrow so I can see what is catching the glass on it's way up
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