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That's what I thought...BUT with the Key ON the eyelet sparks when it touches the frame.
Voltmeter shows 13.0 volts at the eyelet.
I read something about this wire on the C3 Forum but can't remember where/what terminal it gets connected to.
the one near the blower motor goes to a bellhousing bolt. Let Rescue Check his Dr rebuild.
disconnect your positive. Leave ground connected. Ohm meter between frame & this ring terminal should read continuity. Likely the blower motor ground.
just had a brain wave - this one shows the bellhousing bolt location in the AIM
I have a spare set of Dr Rebuilds for a ‘73. PM me your address & I’ll UPS them to you no charge.
the one near the blower motor goes to a bellhousing bolt. Let Rescue Check his Dr rebuild.
disconnect your positive. Leave ground connected. Ohm meter between frame & this ring terminal should read continuity. Likely the blower motor ground.
just had a brain wave - this one shows the bellhousing bolt location in the AIM
I have a spare set of Dr Rebuilds for a ‘73. PM me your address & I’ll UPS them to you no charge.
I'll just do dat!
And you guys are right....there are crossed wires somewhere causing the Black wire in question to have 13.0volts with the key on! When I remove the Pos, cable at the battery the black wire shows 775 ohms.
I pulled the driver gauge panel out to check the Key Switch for a short...the white wire to the coilis losing voltage somehow...Key ON = 13.0V.......then after 30 seconds the wire gradually drops down to 3.5V
Same situation with the Black ground wire
Brain damage and crossed wires don't mix. I'll test everything tomorrow from the Key switch to the coil.
Update: Stupid me...I forgot about 7 years ago I replaced the White Cloth resistor wire to the coil with a 12ga. White wire since the previous owner had installed an HEI distributor.
THAT'S why I said the white wire to the coil is losing voltage .
I'll make a note on my wiring diagram.
IF I run a temp. wire from Battery + to the coil, the engine cranks perfectly and has a great spark at the plugs.
UPDATE #2: The 2 year old electric fuel pump just died...I'll run a jumper to it tomorrow to see if it will work. IF NOT....I'm going back to mechanical pump.
Brain damage and crossed wires don't mix. I'll test everything tomorrow from the Key switch to the coil and from the electric fuel pump to the key switch.
Last edited by doorgunner; Nov 13, 2024 at 11:13 PM.
Question for you, 2 year old fuel pump. In tank? Or in line? And part 2 of question. Brand.
Inline pump mounted near bottom of tank to keep it primed. Holley brand $70. I should have bought an electric inline replacement pump for a 1989 Ford Ranger....It lasted 20 years in my daily driver!
I'm headed to the garage to find the problem with 13.0V feeding into the bell housing ground wire
That is the upper firewall ground wire. It grounds the blower motor, wiper motor, TCS sol, and hood alarm switch (if so optioned).
It's likely "hot" (+13.8v) w/Key on should one of those circuits be in the on/run position as your meter completes the circuit to ground.
You can test if there's some other item working against you on this wire by simply unplugging all of the above mentioned ground points and seeing if the wire is still hot.
If not, you can then back into which circuit is making it hot by applying the ground plugs one at a time.
Could be the wiper motor if it's not fully parked as it calls for power until the park pall is closed.
Could be the wiper motor if it's not fully parked as it calls for power until the park pall is closed.
While I know nothing about 68 wiper motors, I do have a friend who's complained numerous time about their operation and draining his battery and worse. So I guess somewhere there's a particular education as to how 68's work and are different.
If this is the wire to the wiper, in response it may be worth a new thread to attract the right experts.
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FOr those that dont own a 68, the wiper motor park feature has a relay that is energizing a magnetic switch i believe, when the motor parks, the switch opens de-energizing the motor. When you put the motor in bypass it will stop the wiper motor but leave that relay energized. Apparently the way it is configured, even if the motor is parked, if you rotate that switch so that it breaks contacr, it will energize that relay and drain the battery over night.....i switched it to a toggle. It just may be that Tony has that switch disconnected which will energize that relay...it could be that simple. Maybe disconnect all the wiper plugs and see if you lose the power on the black wire.
That is the upper firewall ground wire. It grounds the blower motor, wiper motor, TCS sol, and hood alarm switch (if so optioned).
It's likely "hot" (+13.8v) w/Key on should one of those circuits be in the on/run position as your meter completes the circuit to ground.
You can test if there's some other item working against you on this wire by simply unplugging all of the above mentioned ground points and seeing if the wire is still hot.
If not, you can then back into which circuit is making it hot by applying the ground plugs one at a time.
Could be the wiper motor if it's not fully parked as it calls for power until the park pall is closed.
I unplugged all the connectors 2 months ago when I was painting the firewall, but I needed to know your Info.
Originally Posted by ignatz
While I know nothing about 68 wiper motors, I do have a friend who's complained numerous time about their operation and draining his battery and worse. So I guess somewhere there's a particular education as to how 68's work and are different.
If this is the wire to the wiper, in response it may be worth a new thread to attract the right experts.
Thanks ignatz.
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
FOr those that dont own a 68, the wiper motor park feature has a relay that is energizing a magnetic switch i believe, when the motor parks, the switch opens de-energizing the motor. When you put the motor in bypass it will stop the wiper motor but leave that relay energized. Apparently the way it is configured, even if the motor is parked, if you rotate that switch so that it breaks contacr, it will energize that relay and drain the battery over night.....i switched it to a toggle. It just may be that Tony has that switch disconnected which will energize that relay...it could be that simple. Maybe disconnect all the wiper plugs and see if you lose the power on the black wire.
Sounds interesting...It must be another component causing the problem
So...today's Adventure took 6 hours of chasing-repairing-replacing wires/repairing Bulkhead Wiring seized bolt and nut Harness cross-threaded retaining bolt
I used the diagram you posted and cleaned up/removed additional extra wires at the solenoid. I had two of them crossed.
THAT solved the spark problem with the large-eyelet ground...no more sparking...no voltage feeding through it.
Ohhhh Happy Day!
THEN...The Red factory wire from the solenoid + Terminal to the horn relay has 13.5V but the fuse box has now lost all power to the fuses. I unbolted the bulkhead connector...the wiring grease had turned to Tar. As I removed all the tar I find the head of an aluminum factory rivet stuck between two male spade Terminals that feed the fuses...I removed the rivet head. I should have taken a pic but I was losing the wiring battle.
STILL no voltage at the fuses. I back-trak to the horn relay-no voltage from horn relay to bulkhead connector. How is THAT possible?
I had a doorgunner moment...removed the horn relay and wired the Red wire from the solenoid directly to the red wire going into the bulkhead connector....plugged the connector back into the rear of the fuse box.
Then I Kinda installed the bulkhead connector bolt...it seized up halfway tightened...
I disassembled the fuse box-cut the nut off-removed the ruined bolt-epoxied a nut with a large factory washer crimped onto the nut-installed a new bolt-problem solved...13.5V at fuses!
NOW I have voltage at the Key Switch...but I don't hear the electric fuel pump running. It has power at the fuel pump relay but the fuse is blown.....Hmmmmm? Install a new fuse/no sound from pump/blows another fuse. I disconnect the fuel pump feed at the pump--then install new fuse--it doesn't blow,,,Hmm?
NO voltage at the fuel pump...RATS!
The fuse is still good so I check for power at the 12 ga. Red wire that is fed by the battery + post...it has power exiting the battery...the fuel pump feed wire must be pinched in half. I thought about reverting to a mechanical fuel pump but the fuel gets super hot because of the way GM routed the outlet line over the engine to the carb.
I'm so close to starting the engine that it's Un"bare"able. I'll run a jumper wire from the battery to the fuel pump....if it sounds slow or won't run I'll buy a mechanical pump and reroute the feed line to the carb inlet.
WHEWWWWWW!
I'm worn out...knee ligament is screaming at me. I will finish this problem tomorrow-if God says the same!
And you reckon that Ford ran a external inline pump? Never heard of such a thing! Seriously, I never have!
In the tank pump! All OEM's Run intank pumps. From Harley Davidson to KIA. And for a number of good reasons!
Inline pump! Really!
And you reckon that Ford ran a external inline pump? Never heard of such a thing! Seriously, I never have!
In the tank pump! All OEM's Run intank pumps. From Harley Davidson to KIA. And for a number of good reasons!
Inline pump! Really!
Told you I have brain damage...it was a replacement pump with the same output of the Ford lectric pump...
thanks for activating my brain cells
Do you have the correct key in the ignition...door and iginition are different
With the meds I'm on...it would be like me to try the wrong key .
The key has been in the switch for two years now, but I tried the other key just in case...the door key wouldn't even fit into the tumbler (dummy-proof for me).
I'm very happy I didn't install the panel without trying the key switch first.
I'll take the entire assembly out of the panel to repair it tomorrow.
Finally....so close to cranking it up with the "new" 64cc heads.
Durn it man! I just found out I have a working ignition key, but the doors and alarm... looks like I'll be buying a cyliner(s) and key set for everything.
Hope you have the right key or can get it sorted otherwise. You are so close I can taste it way over here. Living vicariously through your project!
