Serious Question..
I'm not looking to offend anyone with this question but I'd like to know if anyone else has the same opinion or thoughts.
The corvette in question is not an original or a survivor, it is a beautiful restored (over a period of time) Car. it does have 200k+ documented miles but if its restored it should drive the same as new am I not correct? the car is in excellent shape. mechanically and physically.
Is it due to the way the body's are on these cars?
I'd love to own a 1968-1970 but hearing and experiencing the quality of them has left me only liking the way they look but I'd never want to spend 25k+ on one.
Last edited by 69cvette; Mar 10, 2015 at 11:23 AM.




If you are expecting the car to "drive as new" it's possible you have an unrealistic expectation of old Corvettes, even restored ones, and maybe they aren't for you. Especially if you are comparing them to other model cars and trucks.
PS: I love how my 69 drives. It might depend on the car and your personal tastes.
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Mar 10, 2015 at 11:34 AM.
). But, the assembly quality was always 'suspect'. The Big 3 were in their "Heyday" period, and all that mattered was producing them fast so they could sell the cr@p out of them.New cars usually had a few assembly/installation problems that got dealt with at the dealer in [reasonably] short order. The '68s were a bit different deal because that was a MAJOR model changeover from C2 to C3 configuration. Most all of the body and interior components were completely redesigned and the long-term functional/operational bugs were not known at that time. After the first year, some features got changed (map pocket, interior door pulls, ignition switch, availability of tilt/tele column, etc.) and some had minor redesigns for better durability/function. By '69, most of those problems were overcome. There was really nothing in a '68 that should keep you from getting one, other than it had some one-year-only parts. General function of them was fine.
All of the rattle-type issues were due to minimizing costs...therefore eliminating 'extras' to keep screws tight and vibration from transferring around. Today, rattle causes (once you actually find them
) are overcome with Loctite, rubber pads/bumpers, damping materials; but you need to disassemble 'things' to find the problems.So, whenever you need to disassemble interior 'stuff', just make sure to look around and identify where improvements can be made to "tighten things up" while you have access. Over time, and with good weatherstipping that is maintained, you can have a rattle-free, squeek-free Corvette. But, you have to be willing to work at it a little at a time.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 10, 2015 at 11:47 AM.
The 68 was a first model year design, and first year models of most new designs, usually have some "teething" issues. The 63 and 68 Corvettes both have first year quirks, and suffered from ongoing changes and "improvements" during the model year.
The main issue with 68's, is that there are many one year only parts on them. Some parts were re-designed two or three times during 68. Some of those parts can be hard to find, or considerably more expensive then the same part for a 69.
If your buying a properly restored Corvette, chances are pretty good that the fit and finish is going to be far superior to anything built in 68. The creaks and rattles that 68's suffered from (door glass, T-tops, the dash/gauge cluster, etc), were also common in 76's, and are often still present today. Creaks and rattles are just part of the character of old cars, and even Corvettes.
I'm not looking to offend anyone with this question but I'd like to know if anyone else has the same opinion or thoughts.
The corvette in question is not an original or a survivor, it is a beautiful restored (over a period of time) Car. it does have 200k+ documented miles but if its restored it should drive the same as new am I not correct? the car is in excellent shape. mechanically and physically.
Is it due to the way the body's are on these cars?
I'd love to own a 1968-1970 but hearing and experiencing the quality of them has left me only liking the way they look but I'd never want to spend 25k+ on one.
The 68 was a first model year design, and first year models of most new designs, usually have some "teething" issues. The 63 and 68 Corvettes both have first year quirks, and suffered from ongoing changes and "improvements" during the model year.
The main issue with 68's, is that there are many one year only parts on them. Some parts were re-designed two or three times during 68. Some of those parts can be hard to find, or considerably more expensive then the same part for a 69.
If your buying a properly restored Corvette, chances are pretty good that the fit and finish is going to be far superior to anything built in 68. The creaks and rattles that 68's suffered from (door glass, T-tops, the dash/gauge cluster, etc), were also common in 76's, and are often still present today. Creaks and rattles are just part of the character of old cars, and even Corvettes.
Again it was good to meet you this year at NCRS.
Larry
My '68 project car literally was a rattle-trap from the front bumper to the loose tail lights. I completely rebuilt the suspension/brakes/(transmission & differential were rebuilt by previous owner)/driveshaft/trailing arms......the car is 90% rattle-free now. New weatherstrip will solve the sqeek-rub sounds on the doors and roof, and going through the door mechanisms will end the remaining rattles.
As for rain drips/leaks......I have always ridden Harleys, so a drip here and there is no problem for me (My new '69 Camaro convertible NEVER leaked a drop/other friends convertible dripped all the time in heavy rains). I WILL solve any leak problems though (silicone sealer is a great invention!)
I'm a rookie, but the forum members are helping me solve every problem I run across on the '68.....the last challenge will be installing '68 front and rear bumpers---since a previous owner grafted '76 bumpers onto the car

I'm currently de-bugging the dash/installing wiring-quick-disconnects/lots of ty-wraps--zip ties/alarm-remote start.
SO......all we need to do on the '68s is "do correctly" what GM was in too much of a hurry to do.
Last edited by doorgunner; Mar 10, 2015 at 01:26 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
P.S. Chrome Bumpers Rule!
sound deadener everywhere , weatherstrips were installed with great care for fit , foam between anything that could possibly rub or rattle and the list goes on. the end result was a very quiet , squeak ,rattle and wind noise free car. it can be done , all it takes is time and effort.....same goes for door , hood and fender fit.....attention to detail , time and effort





I have driven in a few c3s that did rattle like hell, one was a recent restoration. Could have something to do with the car in question being taken apart.
Gary




























