Here are a few pics of a small guoge on my fender. Is this something that just can be filled in or will it need tape/ resin etc. the inside portion of the fender is not damaged just the surface

 

IMHO: don't fill. Repair.

 

You can do it right and forever by grinding out and repairing correctly or sand and remove the loose pieces and swipe it with "bondo" it will likely crack or at least show but...the choice is yours.

 

No matter how you do it, it will have to be touched up. And to do that right you need to paint the nose. So do the repair the right way and gring it out and use matte and resin.

 

Hi c,
I agree that the repair will require mat and resin.
The repaired area will be larger than the pictures indicate because the damage will likely extend a bit further (that's the nature of fiberglass), the repair will need to be feathered even further, and the primer and paint even further yet.
So I think more than a bit of work will be required!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

I agree with the others that it needs ground out and repaired with mat and resin , but I would also put one layer of fiberglass cloth ( not mat ) with resin on the back side also for extra strength. Fiberglass cloth is different from mat as it is very strong but flat . Not intended for filling .

 

Looks like the nose of an '80-'81. When you fill, use SMC resin. Fiberglass cloth or mat - that doesn't matter. But don't use regular fiberglass resin.

 

I think most are reading too much into this. These fenders are darn tough and I doubt backing it up with a layer of mat or cloth is necessary.

It looks like something hit and bounced off, leaving nasty gouges and a small hole. Notice the paint shows no cracks. To be sure, take some graphic dust (pencil grindings from a pencil sharpener) and rub the area. Cracks in the paint mean the fiberglass flexed, and could be cracked.

Clean the back of the fender to bare and check for cracks.

You can get chopped and milled fiberglass at a fiberglass supply like for boats or professional body shop supplies. You can mix a really thick putty using the resin and chopped/milled fiberglass that will work much better than bondo for filling.

As much as you want to do it fast, leave it bare a week or so and in the sun to heat and shrink the repair. This way you can see any distortion or cracking and then fix before spending the money on paint.

A good paint supply can computer match the paint and you can get a quart to repaint the fender, feathering it in so it doesn't leave a line.

Unfortunately, you get stuck with a quart because most won't mix less than that. And a couple of years ago, lacquer was $100 per quart.

 

Thanks for all the advice! You guys are great, thats why I love this forum. I was thinking more in line with Mark Milner, and by no means will I do a cheap repair. I guess the key is to take a detailed look behind the fender for any damage. On the surface, and behind the fender it looks like there are no cracks.
Thanks again.

 

I think that vertical line extending down from the hole is a crack in the glass. Prep the area by removing the paint for an inch or more around the defect and check it. If it's a crack, you'll have to "V" it out and repair with epoxy and chopped glass.

 

I see two completely different issues in the photos. The first photo actually show more damage at the bumper seam than the second photo. More paint is popped off. WHY is that????

I honestly think that what ever hit the fender at the bumper really stressed it because it does not look like is was just gouged out.....BUT....I am not there and sometimes photos do not always tell the true story when viewing them.

Using resin or a filler is up to you.

Also....regardless of the matching that paint stores use for color matching...all they can do is provide a color that is a 'blendable match'....if THAT in some cases. One of the worst colors is white.....due to the toners used to make it. Yellow, red, blue and black are often used in white in some varying amounts. White is NOT just white toner.

Also....where ever you stop your blend...if you plan on doing that....the end of your blend...no matter how great the color match is...will show up in time and you more than likely will need to keep an 'eye' on the edge and make sure that you keep it fortified with glazes so it can hold up.....because the odds that you shooting lacquer and it 'melting in' and not having a line show up- is highly unlikely.

Just 'saying'.

DUB

 

Everclear makes a product that is made with Kevlar. Trust me this stuff is super strong. Good for small areas, any bigger should be re-glassed and jell-coated. It comes in a tube and make sure they give you the correct hardener for it. Again Kevlar very strong and cost effective.