I used one of the "always hot" accessory plugs marked "bat" on the fuse box to run a new horn. It was working fine but now the plug has no power. Is that bat plug controlled by a fuse?

 

Can anyone help with this issue?

 

Are you getting a good ground when you use your test equipment. If it had power it should still have power. There is no fuse for those terminals . They are always hot. I suspect that you just need a good ground on your tester which is hard to find on these cars sometimes. Run a ground straight to your battery - terminal.

 

A horn is a high demand it should always be wired with a relay,
I had 2 81's you would think I would remember the Bat term but I do not...you "could" have fried a wire if you had a high draw horn on it and the wire had no fuse to blow first.

 

Thanks. I hooked up a one horn kit which didn't require a fuse. The "bat" plug had power but now doesn't. The fuse right above it (20amp) has blown and blows instantly if I put a new one in.

 

Did that.....still no power. 20 amp fuse above "bat" now blown and new fuse blows right away.

 

It appears you have the fuse box removed. Can you see where the wires for the Bat and the 20 amp circuit connect to it? Was wondering if the Bat terminal or wiring got too hot and melted over onto the 20 amp connection. What else isn't working? Don't have a pdf of my owners manual on my work computer and don't remember what is on that 20 amp circuit

 

It's not my actual fuse box just a pic for reference. I do like your theory though. Thanks.

 

OK....the 20 AMP AMBER FUSE.....that is..from the bottom....the second row UP and the second fuse ON THAT ROW.....CORRECT?

IF it is.....this fuse it your courtesy fuse.....so interior compartment lights...cigarette lighter, power door lock possibly, rear spare tire carrier light, visor light interior timer controller, radio and I believe antenna relay are powered BY THIS FUSE.

NOW....because I am not at work right now and do not have my book with me....but if I follow GM's previous design ideas. IF you remove THIS 20 AMP fuse....Go in with a volt meter and check to see which fuse terminal has 12 volts to it with the FUSE OUT. MY bet ...the LEFT terminal will be 12 volts. AND the TWO 'BAT' terminals should have NO power to them. CHECK THIS AND CONFIRM!!! SO...when you get this 20 AMP fuse to not pop.....the fuse protects the TWO 'BAT' terminals if you hook something up to them.

NOW...GM could have switched it.....and made it so the RIGHT TERMINAL on the 20 AMP fuse is 12 volts.....THUS....the two 'BAT" terminals are also battery power at all times.

BUT REGARDLESS....Back to the 20 amp fuse that is popping. The terminal that you find is battery pwoer....the other one will show to be GROUNDED.....and that is what is causing you fuse to pop. SO...You have to go to each item that this fuse is supplying power to and disconnect it and see when the terminal finally is no longer grounded. IF you have all components disconnected....and the terminal is still GROUNDED....you have this wire touching something steel in the car.

DUB

 

I wish that darn fuse box was this easy to access.
I hate anything to do with it.

 

You do not have to remove the fuse box to do what I wrote.

DUB

 

Thanks for the info DUB. If you do get a chance to look at your book could you please post the list of what is actually controlled by that fuse? I'm starting with the cig lighter and interior lights which I know are controlled. Thanks again.