Tomorrow I will attempt to do some mods on my 76 front end...putting in extended studs for a 5/8" spacer. While I got it apart I would like to lower the front about an inch to 1 1/2. How difficult is it to get those springs out? looks like all I have to do is unbolt the shock and another rod and it should drop right down. Also how hard will it be to cut the spring or should I take it to a shop? Was planning on using a reciprocating saw and keep it watered to control the heat...Doable? Debating on cutting 1 to 1 1/2 coil shorter. Put a set of air shocks on the back today to give me a about and inch more clearance....not in pic.....thoughts and suggestions appreciated.

 

I know you did not ask for an opinion or any comment. but I assume this is so you can space out your wheel???

Professional opinion: I would not use extended studs...especially if the car is going to be driven with a lot of 'spirit'. If the wheel needs to be spaced out. I would install billet spacers that have the studs in them and they actually get bolted to the studs that are in the hub/spindle currently. And this billet spacer would be machined so the billet spacer makes the wheel mount and is centered due to being 'hub centric"...and NOT just being held on with the wheel studs. Once again...a profession observation/opinion. AND might be a mute point entirely if the wheels that are on it in the photo are being used....because it has been so long since I have seen what the backside of these wheels looks like.... I do not think that they were made to be hub-centric.


I would use a coil spring compressor. It is dangerous to do it without a compressor...and your life is not worth trying o conger up a contraption that you may 'think' works.

I use the Snap-On WA92 coil spring compressor.

Getting the coil spring out is a process. DEPENDS If you want to deal with your brake calipers or not. BECAUSE the lower ball joint goes into the spindle from the top. If you compress the spring enough and remove the upper ball joint from the spindle...the lower control arm will drop taking the caliper and spindle/rotor with it which is a heavy piece of metal to deal with...and this is why you have to either remove your caliper...or remove the hose from the line at the frame and cap it off. You have to be careful....obviously. There are so many fine little steps and procedures that you have to be aware of when removing the spring SAFELY...and when putting it back in and compressing it ...with all its stored energy....is where you REALLY have to be aware. I MEAN REALLY BE AWARE!!!!!!

AS for cutting a coil spring....you DO NOT want to use a torch. using a hacksaw blade is ok and keeping it cool it a good idea. When I used to cut coils off of springs ...I used a cut-off tool (fiberglass disc) and did it that way...keeping it cool while doing it by wrapping a cold wet rag around the spring so the heat did not transfer into the spring.

DUB

 

Thank you!!!! About all the info I need!! Crager actually sells a spacer kit that brings the wheel out 1/2" but after reviewing it...it looked so cheesy I would not trust it. Also it made the wheel clear the caliper by a hair...I opted to go the extra 1/8th for comfort and wanted a solid spacer. Although I agree billet spacers are better you have to get them at least an inch thick and even then the studs may have to be shaved...put the wheel out to far. The way the cragers are made in the back I will be OK but need the extended studs to get a comfortable bite by the lug...did this in the back and worked out fine. I will take your advice and get a loaner coil compressor. Changed out a set of coils many years ago when I was young without one but that is when I drank and didn't have a care.....I no longer drink and don't like getting hurt.
Thank you again for the input....John.

 

John,
All I am concerned about is your safety....both in the wheel stud / spacer issue and you removing the coil springs.

If you run into concerns....post your concerns or PM me so I see it right away when I get on the forum after work each day...if you want my advice/suggestions.

DUB

 

Actually removing the front springs is not that difficult or dangerous. I used a floor jack under the lower a arms, just make sure it's safely supported. Now that that's out of the way, a word of caution. I lowered my '72 by cutting the springs, and although it looked cool when I was done, it handled terribly. It was very loose on center, and had a tendency to wander. It was difficult to keep in my lane. No matter how I tried adjusting the toe, camber and caster, I could not solve the problem. So I bought springs, raised it back up, and everything went back to normal.

 

I was hoping that no one was going to come in and say how easy it that this job is not dangerous. Yeah...it is like the guy who plays golf in a lightening storm and tells everyone it is OK to do it...because he has never been struck by lightening.

The job is not impossible....and you can do it how you see fit. I have seen what happens when a person 'does it there way' and things go BADLY WRONG!

Getting the springs out your way...people will do what they feel is good for them. I would love for you to take a video and post it on YouTube when you go and put a set of factory length coils springs IN using your method of only lowering the lower control arm and using a floor jack on a 1963-1982 Corvette. I would LOVE to see it. That way I might actually learn something. Because I have done so many 1963-1982 Corvette front suspensions that I could not live without my coil spring compressor. I have to see how you actually get the coil spring to get into the pocket correctly in the lower control arm and then swing up the control arm and get it secured....without completely damaging the paint or coating on the lower control arm. Some of the Corvettes I work on are really pristine and I can not deal with gouge marks from pry bars, etc. So take that into consideration when you make the video.

Please post the link to your video. From start to finish. You just might have the 'trick' that I had not thought of when doing this to see if I could do it without a coil spring compressor

DUB.

 

Another smart *** sacastic post from DUB. Why am I not surprised. Don't give me this crap that you "care" about people's safety and their cars. All I ever see in your posts is your BIG GIANT EGO. Your not the only one that knows how to work on these cars. Now reply back and tell us all again how smart you are.

 

The springs sold by vendors such as vbp, are actually a bit shorter than a stock coil. Yes, DUB, you are correct the factory springs are longer and consequently great care should be taken. FWIW, I too cut a coil off an already shorter spring. The ride ht is right on, but I too think Ill attack this situation a bit differently. Im saving for a coil over suspension kit. I was able to adjust caster and camber adequately so the car steers good, I feel there are better albeit pricier alternatives.

 

Well let me tell you....for all interested access to those front springs is a breeze. Went to the auto store and got a loan on a pickle fork and a spring compressor, jacked up the car so the tires were about 2 inches off the ground. Removed all the items that could be easily removed, moved the caliper out of the way and took the shock off. Messed with that spring compressor about a half an hour and finally put it back in the box....the room required to install and use it effectively was just not there. In short it was a PIA. Put a floor jack under the lower arm, popped the upper ball joint and lowered it to the floor....after that I just used a crow bar at the bottom of the spring and it popped right out....no danger at all.
Now...what was a bugger is cutting that spring. A hacksaw???? Good luck. I burned up 2 blades in a reciprocating saw....on one spring. THAT THING IS SOME HARD STEEL!!!! Putting the spring back in is about the same process, crowbar the bottom of the spring close to the seat and one good kick will put it back in. From there you can spin the spring to the proper location and reassemble.
I guess a spring compressor is the safest way if you have no common sense. I do not doubt there are some out there that get hurt but really it is not bad at all...the compressor just was not working for me and made a simple job just too complicated. I wasn't worried about the paint on the lower control arm....was covered in road grime. In the end I just smeared it around a bit and behold.....like new, LOL.

 

I can see that you are "what you are'...and have nothing to add to help the person asking for advice.

As for knowing me.....you obviously do not know jack squat...and THAT is a fact. Maybe because you do not have the ability to care about ANY ONE but yourself. And I am truly sorry that you were in a business fro 30 years that was not a real 'hands on' automotive repair shop that actually repaired peoples Corvettes....because if you had...your attitude and understanding would be quite different. Which is why you obviously did not add anything constructive to this post ...other than bashing me.

Does not surprise me when all you have to do is find fault in what I comment. It has nothing to do with my EGO...you are the one who has an issue when someone comments from EXPERIENCE that you can not compare to.. SO...uhhhh...get over it. People like you just make me laugh. Thanks...I needed a good laugh.

DUB

 

Glad you git them in..YES...a cut coil spring will go in like you had found...but a longer factory one...is another story.

Main thing is you got them in and can get ready to ride.

DUB

 

DUB....I do appreciate your advice and hope that you will continue to help me when I ask. I was just not skilled enough to use the compresssor in a way to simplify the job....I am sure having done it multiple times you could throw it on with your eyes closed but your caution to me allowed me to take my time and look at things twice before proceeding to a next step and I thank you for that.

 

For the springs just unbolt the shock and pop the lower ball joint with a jack underneath. Then slowly lower jack to unload the spring tension. Not hard. I would buy some big block springs from VBP. You will get the 1"-1/2 drop and it will be even on both sides. Plus cutting the old springs sucks.

 

Thank you for your response because I had your BEST INTERESTS in mind when I commented on this post for you. I write what I write...what people choose to do with it is entirely up to them. If you need any advice or help on a task...I will be willing to give you my views on this. But keep in mind I am NOT going to tell you how to do a repair or service that can potential hurt you.

FOR THE RECORD:
All I try to do is pass along experiences and procedures that I have found that work for me. When a person asks how to do something...I have to consider their safety and skill level. Why is this...it is because I am a professional..and I know better. This is not bragging...it is a fact. And if someone does not want to employ what I write....then it is their choice. At least some other information is out here for people to consider and make a choice. How people read into what I write... I can not control...and some feel that I am trying to make it like my way is the only way. Which is not the case at all.

DUB

 

I have done C3 springs 2x's. I have to agree they are dangerous. One problem I have found is the hook compressors are too long to compress the long Corvette spring.

I remove the shock, install the upper hooks as high as possible. I use an old pulley under the A arm then go up through the pulley and shock hole with the compressor shaft and lower slide block. Just let the hooks hang loose. Get the lower ball joint broke loose with the nut lose in place. I then compress the spring and remove the lower A Arm with the spring compressed to it. Once away from the car you can slowing release tension and free the spring from the A arm. The pulley is just an area back up to prevent the compressor lower slide block from damaging the shock hole. I felt very safe this way. Make sure it's a good quality compressor. I rented one from a parts store. Go back in the same way. With the spring compressed to the A arm you can go strain up into the spring pick in the frame and bolt the A arm on. Then reconnect the ball joint. Make sure the spring is indexed to the slot in the A Arm when you start to compress.
For cutting I line to use a cut off wheel. It's fast and no much heat. I cut 1 full coil of my 78.
You will need a floor jack to jack the A arm and spring up into the pocket and hold it there while bolting the A arm shaft to the frame. Then when nearly in place add some tenion to connect the ball joint. The pulley I used used was abou an inch thick. It just gives an are between the slide block and A arm to compress against. The corvette springs are too long and stiff to just jack in or out.

 

Well got er done and she does look sweet....took 1 1/8 coil out, put air shocks on the back...Monroes. Would still like the back up about 1/2 inch but the air shock travel is about maxed. The design of the shock does not give much jack up ability over stock. Was thinking of putting a 1 inch shock block in the top to give more travel but no one makes one that I can find....may have to get it custom made. If anyone has any ideas...lay it on me....I can go up a bit more without compromising the angle of the drives.

BEFORE:



AFTER:

 

To adjust the rear ride hight you change to spring/trail arm bolts. Longer=lower and shorter =higher. No real need for the air shocks.

 

Looks alot better

 

X2 on that...........glad nobody got hurt!

 

That will only do you so far. As this thing sits the stock shock is almost all the way extended...14" to be exact which is where the air shock is about right now...little more. By adjusting the bolts you can only go as far as the shock will extend. I need to keep in mind I can not compromise the angle of the drive shafts too badly but there is some room there. What I need is a shock extender block about 2 inches such as the ones shown below. This will allow me to let pressure off the shock and shorten it....then adjust with room to spare. I can find nothing like this to fit a C3 and may have to get them custom made....If anyone knows of a company that sells them or has another idea please feel free to share.