Title sez it all. I have a bad #4 body mount. Reached into the trunk? to see what is on top of bolt and cage came out in my hand. Not corroded or anything, looks like rivets just didnt hold. Looks like holding an open end wrench from above would be difficult. I figure some 12 point largish socket should fit these nuts.

 

The nut part is just over 1" across flats, might have been due to being lightly rusted but a 1" open end wrench wouldn't quite fit over it.

First one I had to deal with I took a piece of 1-1/4 sqr tube which has an inside dim of just over 1" and it fit nice over the bare nut.

Second time I machined an actual socket to fit over the cage with a spacer to fit a bare nut. Now I'll likely never need it again LOL
M

 

8 point socket does it...that is what I use.

Like these..
http://assets.suredone.com/1599/medi...e-im-740-9.jpg

DUB

 

Yep, 4 point nuts need 8 point sockets that oddly enough most people don't know exist.

 

What size 8 point socket DUB?

Thanks, Bill

 

My story may not be too applicable.

I couldn't unfasten the #4 drivers side bolt. The nutcatcher quickly became history, the steel nutcatcher housing was riveted with aluminum rivets which quickly sheared. I didn't know it, until all was finished, that at factory installation, using a factory power tool, the bolt and nut had became cross threaded. I have a convertible and was able to get a socket into the body well and get the socket on the nut. Since the bolt head, outside of the frame, would not turn, I sawed it off. Pulling the remains of the nut/threaded shank out of the body well, I could then see the cross threaded nut.

 

Made my own tools as I can't afford real tools

 

Nice work


Bill

 

I have made so many home made tools like this my son just laughs every time he looks in my tool box and sees another one.

 

I would buy a set of these if I could

Bill

 

Bill

I believe the socket is a one inch...and Snap-On sells them...Craftsman sell them. I am sure any major tool company sells them.

Personal/professional comment:

I know that many of you out here want your Corvette perfect in every way. Honestly that is fine by me. But for those people who come across this #4 caged nut spinning or all rusted and worthless.

Personally. I cut the head off the bolt. Drive the rest or the bolt inwards to the inside of the car. Now this might be done when the body is off. So it all depends. I am often times not concerned about getting this caging all correctly riveted due to the customer does not want to pay for what it takes to do it just like what the factory did. A lot depends on the condition of the #4 gusset on the outside area. If the #4 gusset is beign replaced...I will correctly rivet in the caged nut assembly due to the rear splash shield needs to be removed to correctly install the #4 gusset.

SO...if the square nut is rusted to heck..and all you are looking to do it secure this area. I use a hex nut for the body mount bolt and cut a piece of steel in a square so it fits down in the area and when the nut is installed and tightened...it transfers out that pressure along the square 'washer' I made. The thickness of the steel square washer is about 1/8".

DUB