I'll just wd40 it down and try tomorrow.
Lower control arm ball joint removal
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 203
Likes: 4
From: Dallas Area Texas
Lower control arm ball joint removal
I'm having a heck of a time trying to separate the lower ball joint - using a pickle fork but no luck.
I'm positioning the fork under the control arm and whaling away - no go... Starting to second guess myself... Is that the right spot?
I'm positioning the fork under the control arm and whaling away - no go... Starting to second guess myself... Is that the right spot?
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Right spot.. but we usually have the spring in there and (with the nut just loosened)whack them with a hammer.
You might try your local parts store and see if they have a loaner program for a ball joint separator... Most will offer you this for free with a tool deposit and I think at the point your at you'll have better luck with this tool over using the pickle fork.
IMHO,
Willcox
You might try your local parts store and see if they have a loaner program for a ball joint separator... Most will offer you this for free with a tool deposit and I think at the point your at you'll have better luck with this tool over using the pickle fork.
IMHO,
Willcox
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
I have always used 2 two-pound machinist hammers; one to back up the knuckle and one to beat on the other side of the knuckle. About 15-20 good solid WHACKS and BAM. With the spring adding a LOT of downward pressure and the nut loosened several turns the lower a-arm won't slam onto the ground.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
I've used tbtr's method in order to preserve the original rubber boots.
Although the CSM shows the special tool the service techs used, I've always thought the 'flats' on the sides of the knuckle were to hit the hammer on.
Regards,
Alan
I've used tbtr's method in order to preserve the original rubber boots.
Although the CSM shows the special tool the service techs used, I've always thought the 'flats' on the sides of the knuckle were to hit the hammer on.
Regards,
Alan
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Safety Car
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From: Jackson MS
Here is a thread from not too long ago that has some helpful information.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...eparation.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...eparation.html
there went some money
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 4,888
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From: Jackson MS
Here's the tool I used.
When the taper finally broke loose, it sounded like a gun went off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...html?hftref=cj
When the taper finally broke loose, it sounded like a gun went off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...html?hftref=cj
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 203
Likes: 4
From: Dallas Area Texas
Here's the tool I used.
When the taper finally broke loose, it sounded like a gun went off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...html?hftref=cj
When the taper finally broke loose, it sounded like a gun went off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...html?hftref=cj
There's a HF by my work... I'll give it a try... If that fails the whole control arm and spindle are coming off.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 203
Likes: 4
From: Dallas Area Texas
As I plan on having this car for a while... I'll remember that for next time... Also to do next time... Leave spring in to help with the leverage.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 4,888
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From: Jackson MS
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 203
Likes: 4
From: Dallas Area Texas
Victory!
So I purchased the 3/4" ball joint separator from Harbor Freight... Bought another 2 lb hammer and a torch from Home Depot.
Put the separator on the joint like this
Would line up the 2lb hammer on the spindle bump - then whack the 2 lb with a 3 lb hammer... If it didn't loosen, take a few turns + heat.
Final pict
One thing to note - all this hammering over the weekend has hurt my left ear, so today I wore earplugs while hammering.
Put the separator on the joint like this
Would line up the 2lb hammer on the spindle bump - then whack the 2 lb with a 3 lb hammer... If it didn't loosen, take a few turns + heat.
Final pict
One thing to note - all this hammering over the weekend has hurt my left ear, so today I wore earplugs while hammering.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 4
I had problem child original ball joints as well.
Used my big impact to run the nut up real tight and then backed it off.
The next hit of the pickle fork popped it loose like butter.
Apparently pushing up helped break that taper.
The 2 hammer trick always worked before but these were a pita.
Used my big impact to run the nut up real tight and then backed it off.
The next hit of the pickle fork popped it loose like butter.
Apparently pushing up helped break that taper.
The 2 hammer trick always worked before but these were a pita.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 4,888
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From: Jackson MS
You may want to take some emery cloth or a Scotch Brite Pad to the female tapers on the knuckle if you reuse it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 203
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From: Dallas Area Texas
Yes will be reusing the spindle after I clean it up.... Curious though can you take it apart without drilling out the rivets? I see bolts on the backside... Are there bolts that I need to get to that are blocked by the rotor?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Jackson MS
You can get to them when you remove the grease cap and then the cotter pin / castle nut to pull off the rotor / hub.
You don't have to drill out the rivets unless you're changing the rotor.