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The rear suspension on the car has been completely redone, van steel trailing arms, new brakes etc. Stock rear spring and other parts have been removed cleaned, painted and reinstalled.
So I am installing the strut arms. No matter what I do I can't make it happen. I tried everything I know to get this done. Any suggestions ? I put them on the trailing arm first then up to the bracket on the differential, that wouldn't work. Then installed on the diff bracket first and then tried to get them on the trailing arm, no go ! I reversed them, flipped them over thinking they had to go in a certain way, still no luck
They seem twisted, I have the car on jack stands and move the arm up and down as best I can. No luck, put it on the ground with the tires on and weight on the car, no luck. I am not a trained Mechanic, but I have done everything on this car up until now. Any advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks
I use a C-clamp on the spring so the floor jack won't slide. I also use a second jack on the outer edge of the spring and jack both jacks at the same time.
I use a C-clamp on the spring so the floor jack won't slide. I also use a second jack on the outer edge of the spring and jack both jacks at the same time.
Thanks for the advice, when I first put ti back together I made this wood block so the jack couldn't slip and that seemed to work well.
I just don't want to take it back apart.
Hi MBC,
The reason the strut rod is difficult to install is because it's inner connection is at a fixed point, but the connection out at the spindle support moves in a slight 'arc' because the t-arm/spindle support pivots on the t-arm bolt in the frame pocket.
So there's one point in that arc at which the outer strut rod connection is the easiest to make. Just as Z suggested.
Regards,
Alan
Hi MBC,
The reason the strut rod is difficult to install is because it's inner connection is at a fixed point, but the connection out at the spindle support moves in a slight 'arc' because the t-arm/spindle support pivots on the t-arm bolt in the frame pocket.
So there's one point in that arc at which the outer strut rod connection is the easiest to make. Just as Z suggested.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan
So you agree the best way (really only way) is to remove the trailing arm from the spring as suggested ?
Hi Matthew,
You might try jacking up the rear of the t-arm with the spring still attached.
You'll need to keep checking to see if you can make the strut rod connection. If you don't check often enough you could jack right past the point in the arc that you can make the connection.
Certainly worth a try because removing the spring end bolts isn't a pleasant experience.
GOOD luck!
Regards,
Alan
Hi Matthew,
You might try jacking up the rear of the t-arm with the spring still attached.
You'll need to keep checking to see if you can make the strut rod connection. If you don't check often enough you could jack right past the point in the arc that you can make the connection.
Certainly worth a try because removing the spring end bolts isn't a pleasant experience.
GOOD luck!
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan
I tried with the spring still attached and I got it to the point where it was just lifting the whole car, not far enough to attach the arm.
Looks like there is no choice but to take the spring off
I installed my strut rods before installing the spring. I have heim jointed strut rods on both the 68 and 70. Tom's Differential. The spring is a VBP composite spring. Incidentally, the composite springs are so much easier to install as compared to the stock.
I installed my strut rods before installing the spring. I have heim jointed strut rods on both the 68 and 70. Tom's Differential. The spring is a VBP composite spring. Incidentally, the composite springs are so much easier to install as compared to the stock.
I am going to attempt to make it happen this weekend, I am going to Carlisle so I will fit it in somewhere. It is the last step and then the car has been totally done just in time to get it into the body shop this fall for paint thanks for all the help and suggestions