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So I just did a compression test on my stock '81 just to see what health my engine is in, and I need help interpreting the results. Here are the numbers:
Test was done with the engine hot (mid way I actually stopped, ran the engine some more, and continued because it took me so long). I've never done this before, and being the good millennial I am, I read everything I could on it an hour before hand and went at it. Problem is contradicting info. Some say do it cold, only thing that matters is how different the readings are, some say do it hot, some say do it dry, do it wet (didn't bother with the wet test, because I don't care if it's the valves or piston rings, either job is more than I can afford to take care of right now)... so you see where I'm at.
So I just did a compression test on my stock '81 just to see what health my engine is in, and I need help interpreting the results. Here are the numbers:
Test was done with the engine hot (mid way I actually stopped, ran the engine some more, and continued because it took me so long). I've never done this before, and being the good millennial I am, I read everything I could on it an hour before hand and went at it. Problem is contradicting info. Some say do it cold, only thing that matters is how different the readings are, some say do it hot, some say do it dry, do it wet (didn't bother with the wet test, because I don't care if it's the valves or piston rings, either job is more than I can afford to take care of right now)... so you see where I'm at.
Can someone interpret these results for me?
All of the pressures are extremely low. Are you using a screw-in compression tester? For a stock L-48 the pressures should be around 140-150 psi.
All of the pressures are extremely low. Are you using a screw-in compression tester? For a stock L-48 the pressures should be around 140-150 psi.
Yea, that's the conclusion I'm at, but wanted to hear what you guys think. And yes, standard, rented at o'reilly, compression tester. O-rings on it were fine and I hand tightened them (first one they gave me were iffy looking, especially when I did the first cylinder and it read 70 i figured the thing must be broken, but then I rented a secondone and same result.)
Yep... she's getting tired. But, as you mentioned, no funds to really do anything, so... the if it's not broke, don't fix it theory applies here. And if it's a runner, I'd save $$$ until you have enough to do the entire motor right.
unless the bores are badly worn, it'll get you by. if there is a big ridge at the top of the cyls, then not so much. usually only gets that way if run for a long time with no thermostat. how many miles on your car? can you rent-borrow a bore scope to take a peek in thru plug holes? 100 bucks rings-rod bearings. 100 bucks gaskets...
all plugs out it cranks faster. throttle open so it fills cyls completely. did you reinstall plugs 1 at a time as you did test? or was 1 (lowest) the slowest cranking, and 8 (highest) the fastest cranking?
all plugs out it cranks faster. throttle open so it fills cyls completely. did you reinstall plugs 1 at a time as you did test? or was 1 (lowest) the slowest cranking, and 8 (highest) the fastest cranking?
Well *****, I did them one by one, and when I put them back in I initially just hand tightened them before moving on to the next cylinder.
Even if, does it make that much of a difference? I guess I could try doing just one now, since I know the difference between them to get a read for all of them.
That car would be smoking really bad and have no power with those readings.
I think you did the test wrong.
You need the carb throttle open all the way with all plugs out.
Fresh battery, the motor needs to crank over at least 4 - 5 times when testing each cylinder.
It might not be the biggest help, but go check out my thread from two years ago trying to do the same thing. In my case, it was the result of a weak cranking battery not giving me full compression. I went from 65psi to 165psi by changing out the battery for a new one. I was trying to do the compression test off a set of heavy duty jumper cables connected to my pickup
It might not be the biggest help, but go check out my thread from two years ago trying to do the same thing. In my case, it was the result of a weak cranking battery not giving me full compression. I went from 65psi to 165psi by changing out the battery for a new one. I was trying to do the compression test off a set of heavy duty jumper cables connected to my pickup
Battery was replaced no more than a month ago, she cranks good and hard, so unless me not removing all the plugs and leaving the throttle closed could cause such low numbers, I'm screwed.
Battery was replaced no more than a month ago, she cranks good and hard, so unless me not removing all the plugs and leaving the throttle closed could cause such low numbers, I'm screwed.
Yeah, I was posting the link to my thread more so you could read through everyone's suggestions of everything ELSE it might be going wrong in case there were additional suggestions not mentioned in this thread.
Don't count on most of the compression testers being accurate . We had a new one bought at Advance that was totally inaccurate , then rented one at Auto Zone that was totally useless . Then we borrowed an expensive one from a high end repair shop in our area and it was right on. Just saying ! This could be moving you in the wrong direction. As someone else said if those readings were accurate the engine would be throwing a lot of smoke or would barely run.