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Old Sep 12, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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Default Compression Test - Need Help

So I just did a compression test on my stock '81 just to see what health my engine is in, and I need help interpreting the results. Here are the numbers:

Cyl 1: 70
Cyl 2: 90
Cyl 3: 90
Cyl 4: 90
Cyl 5: 90
Cyl 6: 90
Cyl 7: 90
Cyl 8: 110

Test was done with the engine hot (mid way I actually stopped, ran the engine some more, and continued because it took me so long). I've never done this before, and being the good millennial I am, I read everything I could on it an hour before hand and went at it. Problem is contradicting info. Some say do it cold, only thing that matters is how different the readings are, some say do it hot, some say do it dry, do it wet (didn't bother with the wet test, because I don't care if it's the valves or piston rings, either job is more than I can afford to take care of right now)... so you see where I'm at.

Can someone interpret these results for me?
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by KIKIRIKI
So I just did a compression test on my stock '81 just to see what health my engine is in, and I need help interpreting the results. Here are the numbers:

Cyl 1: 70
Cyl 2: 90
Cyl 3: 90
Cyl 4: 90
Cyl 5: 90
Cyl 6: 90
Cyl 7: 90
Cyl 8: 110

Test was done with the engine hot (mid way I actually stopped, ran the engine some more, and continued because it took me so long). I've never done this before, and being the good millennial I am, I read everything I could on it an hour before hand and went at it. Problem is contradicting info. Some say do it cold, only thing that matters is how different the readings are, some say do it hot, some say do it dry, do it wet (didn't bother with the wet test, because I don't care if it's the valves or piston rings, either job is more than I can afford to take care of right now)... so you see where I'm at.

Can someone interpret these results for me?

All of the pressures are extremely low. Are you using a screw-in compression tester? For a stock L-48 the pressures should be around 140-150 psi.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
All of the pressures are extremely low. Are you using a screw-in compression tester? For a stock L-48 the pressures should be around 140-150 psi.
Yea, that's the conclusion I'm at, but wanted to hear what you guys think. And yes, standard, rented at o'reilly, compression tester. O-rings on it were fine and I hand tightened them (first one they gave me were iffy looking, especially when I did the first cylinder and it read 70 i figured the thing must be broken, but then I rented a secondone and same result.)
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 02:29 AM
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Yep... she's getting tired. But, as you mentioned, no funds to really do anything, so... the if it's not broke, don't fix it theory applies here. And if it's a runner, I'd save $$$ until you have enough to do the entire motor right.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 06:25 AM
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Rebuild time.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 08:00 AM
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ain't valves. that is rings. this is a fairly easy motor to re-ring in place. nothing in the way of dropping the pan.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
ain't valves. that is rings. this is a fairly easy motor to re-ring in place. nothing in the way of dropping the pan.
I was under the impression that if the rings need to be replaced, the block needs to be reworked to some extent as well...

Would fitting new rings still be beneficial?
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 08:44 AM
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unless the bores are badly worn, it'll get you by. if there is a big ridge at the top of the cyls, then not so much. usually only gets that way if run for a long time with no thermostat. how many miles on your car? can you rent-borrow a bore scope to take a peek in thru plug holes? 100 bucks rings-rod bearings. 100 bucks gaskets...
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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I assume that you had all of the spark plugs removed AND the throttle plates on the carb completely opened?

If not, you did the test wrong.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
I assume that you had all of the spark plugs removed AND the throttle plates on the carb completely opened?

If not, you did the test wrong.
Didn't do either... what's the purpose of having the throttle open and all sparkplugs removed?
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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all plugs out it cranks faster. throttle open so it fills cyls completely. did you reinstall plugs 1 at a time as you did test? or was 1 (lowest) the slowest cranking, and 8 (highest) the fastest cranking?
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
all plugs out it cranks faster. throttle open so it fills cyls completely. did you reinstall plugs 1 at a time as you did test? or was 1 (lowest) the slowest cranking, and 8 (highest) the fastest cranking?
Well *****, I did them one by one, and when I put them back in I initially just hand tightened them before moving on to the next cylinder.

Even if, does it make that much of a difference? I guess I could try doing just one now, since I know the difference between them to get a read for all of them.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 01:51 PM
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That car would be smoking really bad and have no power with those readings.
I think you did the test wrong.
You need the carb throttle open all the way with all plugs out.
Fresh battery, the motor needs to crank over at least 4 - 5 times when testing each cylinder.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 02:59 PM
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Well this sounds familiar...

It might not be the biggest help, but go check out my thread from two years ago trying to do the same thing. In my case, it was the result of a weak cranking battery not giving me full compression. I went from 65psi to 165psi by changing out the battery for a new one. I was trying to do the compression test off a set of heavy duty jumper cables connected to my pickup

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ting-a-c3.html
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by loquinho
Well this sounds familiar...

It might not be the biggest help, but go check out my thread from two years ago trying to do the same thing. In my case, it was the result of a weak cranking battery not giving me full compression. I went from 65psi to 165psi by changing out the battery for a new one. I was trying to do the compression test off a set of heavy duty jumper cables connected to my pickup

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ting-a-c3.html
Battery was replaced no more than a month ago, she cranks good and hard, so unless me not removing all the plugs and leaving the throttle closed could cause such low numbers, I'm screwed.
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 08:49 PM
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so go get the compressor and find out...
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by KIKIRIKI
Battery was replaced no more than a month ago, she cranks good and hard, so unless me not removing all the plugs and leaving the throttle closed could cause such low numbers, I'm screwed.
Yeah, I was posting the link to my thread more so you could read through everyone's suggestions of everything ELSE it might be going wrong in case there were additional suggestions not mentioned in this thread.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 06:59 AM
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ok, everything else is bad rings or bad valves. so, let's get compression test redone and we shall see what we shall see...
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 09:42 AM
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Don't count on most of the compression testers being accurate . We had a new one bought at Advance that was totally inaccurate , then rented one at Auto Zone that was totally useless . Then we borrowed an expensive one from a high end repair shop in our area and it was right on. Just saying ! This could be moving you in the wrong direction. As someone else said if those readings were accurate the engine would be throwing a lot of smoke or would barely run.

Last edited by bj1k; Sep 14, 2015 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KIKIRIKI
I was under the impression that if the rings need to be replaced, the block needs to be reworked to some extent as well...
If the rings are worn badly enough that they aren't sealing, then yes, the block needs to be bored.

Would fitting new rings still be beneficial?
Without boring the cylinders, it's very likely that new rings would seal worse than the old ones.
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