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I've decided that a straight restoration of my 69 is probably unwarranted given that I'm pretty much starting with a basket case, but I want to try to keep any mods within the spirit of "making it more itself".
One of the first things I think I'll do is delete the door key assemblies, glassing over the holes so they're smooth. But I still gotta lock the car.
One thought is to try to source a C6 mag lock system, but that might be too extensive and expensive a mod. I've seen bluetooth fob-activated mechanical lock-puller mechanisms out there (this one has actuators, but all the listings at Best Buy are just fobs). I like this one instead of a fob, though.
Anyone have experience with this kind of project and willing to share any wisdom (or parts suppliers) with me? Where can I find the best actuators for the 69 door locks?
Power locks are fairly easy. A bunch of people have added actuators (try to go with some OEM version as the aftermarket seem cheap) and a set of relays and a key fob remote. Some use a higher end alarm which frequently have the power lock feature built in.
Basically the actuators need to do something like this
M
Last edited by Mooser; Mar 20, 2018 at 11:06 PM.
Reason: photobucket
Do you really want to face the situation of a dead battery causing you to consider damaging the car just to get in? If you do glass over the key lock holes, consider running a reasonably heavy (12 gauge or so) wire from the +12V connection at the starter to a reasonably accessible stud (with a removal insulated cover) so that you can power up the system via jumper cables or another battery sufficiently to operate the door locks and associated control.
Agree with Mr Swamp. Considering the quality or lack thereof, of the parts available, I don't think I would gamble on either a chinese or a REBUILT actuator, to let me in my car. I am putting pwr locks in my 78 just so I could have a remote fob, but I am leaving everything else as is, so I know I can get in the car.
I'm in the middle of this consideration as well. At the point of body work on my resto-mod and think it will really clean the look with out the lock cylinder on the door. I already have power locks just trying to figure a failsafe in case of error.
My suggestion only works for battery/power failure. It does nothing for component failure.
While I seriously doubt that two actuators would fail at the same time, I do believe that an inopportune failure in either of the inside switches would make the system completely inoperable. Notice that I haven't mentioned the RKE (remote keyless entry) module itself.
Those things said, and considering that I added an RKE system to my '79 (Ready Remote 21994--soldered in and while the main wiring harness was removed) it still the dead battery situation that most concerns me. Perhaps that's because of my local climate where we get wild temperature swings and batteries love to fail completely on either a suddenly hot or suddenly cold day.
add 2 actuators, throw in a cheap alarm for remote control. Done.
leave your locks in place, the next owner may not appreciate your removal/modification.
I already have power locks just trying to figure a failsafe in case of error.
WAY back in the day when I would fill in the door handles and lock cylinders and using solenoid for magnetic entry...and your basic alarm system WAS not on the market yet.
A manual cable was installed that if the electrical failed...the cable could be pulled and actually open the door because this cable was attached to the latch mechanism
Also a dedicated wire was coming of the solenoids so 12 volts could go to this dedicated insulated hidden terminal and open the door...in case that the insulated hidden positive battery terminal failed due to wiring problems.
Lastly...if all that failed....and usually these cars were candy apple, metal flaked, stripes, flames and airbrushed, etc.....so damaging paint WAS NOT an option. We had a clear tint applied to the door glass if the owner DID NOT want regular window tint on it...so the door glass could be broken and removed in one piece....without glass pieces going everywhere in the interior and the door opened the way we all know about. YES...this may seem drastic...but coming from a painter....I would MUCH RATHER replace a door glass and vacuum up glass inside the door than have to paint the body where it got damaged due to someone trying to get in.
@Mooser - wow! That's a real nice inner door you got there! Did you fab that plate? Pretty sweet! How's the quality of the Harada actuators? Those are OEM for Honda?
@SwampeastMike, your suggestion made me think of the Daytona Coupe, which has a battery and an airjack terminal on the upper fender. As for not getting in, though, I've seen AAA stick a balloon in the window and just pull up the lock with a flat rod, easy-peasy, no bumps or bruises. Does the vette's window not have enough give for that?
Also - why specifically the alternator? Wouldn't a post installed under the battery and run up to its positive terminal do just as well?
@Ibanez540r, I think if they'd had the technology they'd have avoided the lock mechanism, and I think it's something Chip Foose would do.
@69Vett, You're right, but you can't please everyone and this is something I think the original designers wished they could have done. Definitely a far cry from some of the Bubba crap I've seen around.
@Mooser - wow! That's a real nice inner door you got there! Did you fab that plate? Pretty sweet! How's the quality of the Harada actuators? Those are OEM for Honda?
Yeah the plates were made to fit, wanted to maintain the factory links and add mine. It's spot welded (sort of) on-top of the original pivot so it could always be removed. Others have used similar things that are far less complicated in shape (a big washer works) but I use things like this to prevent myself from ever finishing.
The actuators were salvaged from a Hyundai I believe and have enough power and stroke length to work well in this setup. They are wired to a set of relays under the dash and to a keyfob remote from unknown origin (I'd guess China like everything else)
If I was worried, I guess I'd run a set of wires off the unlock circuit out somewhere hidden yet accessible (inside the fender gills or under the headlights somewhere) and you could trip the solenoids if the receiver ever quit or the battery died. But I can't actually remember the last time I locked it anyway.
M
@SwampeastMike, your suggestion made me think of the Daytona Coupe, which has a battery and an airjack terminal on the upper fender. As for not getting in, though, I've seen AAA stick a balloon in the window and just pull up the lock with a flat rod, easy-peasy, no bumps or bruises. Does the vette's window not have enough give for that?
Call AAA over and see if this balloon idea works. Let us know who well that went for you. ( I will be curious)... OH yeah....don't cheat and let the window be down a little bit....make sure it is UP all the way.
Back in the day- car stereo days- we'd always run a ss cable through the door to either under the hood or below the car- to mechanically open the shaved doors.
Another thing that was used just to pop the door lock or door solenoid- two wires running to the door lock motor itself- and then you can use a Makita/Dewalt battery from your drill to open /unlock the door.
Hey Dub-
The balloon woks great- my son's friend has one. I've seen it in action- pretty neat idea!!!
I used an aftermarket kit and had to fabricate the actuator arms as you have seen in other pictures. Hiding the wireless receiver and supplying proper power is a chore - but the effort is worth it. If you really want to go big pull off the dash pad to wire in a relay from the aftermarket controller that causes the parking lights to wink when use the system.
Its kinda cool aiming the key fob over my shoulder and locking the doors as I walk away from the car at the weekend car show.
I use "The Big Easy" on a regular basis. There has not been a vehicle that I have not been able to get into (although some easier then others), most in less than 60 seconds. The air bag is what really makes it.
I've never messed with the C3 window, but on the Fox body mustangs, similar to the vette with non-framed windows, they can be pulled and flexed away from the car by at least an inch or two without breaking. The vette should be similar making it super simple compared to a now standard framed window (Where the door itself has to be flexed open for insertion of the tool).
Thanks for the comments on the air balloon. I am aware of it...and I have used it in some cases...BUT...on a C3 window...this can be a bit of fun...which was all I was referring to when I commented on it. If the door glass and rollers are all good....it will be under tension when being pumped out...
SO...if anyone want s to try it out on a GOOD C3 window...feel free and let us all know how well it went.
Electronic door locks?
