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The reason I say this, If you powder coat the coater will sand blast the complete frame as part of the job. But since you are going to PQR it they you are not wasting your time with the wire wheel.
The reason I say this, If you powder coat the coater will sand blast the complete frame as part of the job. But since you are going to PQR it they you are not wasting your time with the wire wheel.
Ok thanks for looking out for me. I'm still going to get it blasted, I'm just cleaning it so I can see what's going on. Plus I kinda like it. It's not something I get to do working on everyday cars.
Have a couple of questions.....
I have searched the forums , but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. I will continue to look, but if you could help, even if its just a link to a thread that covers the subject, I would be very grateful.
Thinking I'm going to put a 1992 Grand Am rack and pinion in. Anyone know of a diagram that would help me visualize where it would sit, what I need to fabricate, etc...?
Have seen it mentioned to re-weld frame? and add gussets? Thoughts and/or information on this? I understand that the frame like to flex up front, especially under steering load, where should gussets be added?
Any other suggestions while down to bare frame?
Any estimate on how long it takes to separate bonded panels from birdcage?
Just have to grind down welds and finish cleaning frame and its ready to coat.
Anyone see any issues I missed or reasons why this won't work?
I repaired and beefed up trailing arm pockets, repaired frame as needed, added more welds to frame seams, repaired/fabricated body mounts. My welds aren't particularly pretty, but should be plenty strong. I think I've got it stronger than new in any trouble areas.
So I started coating the inside of the frame tonight.
Inside frame rail
Interior frame painting
I used a spray on bedliner gun and attached 3' of 3/8" hose to the nozzle. Ran the hose in any openings big enough and sprayed,twisted,wiggled, etc... The gun uses venturi effect to draw in paint through a hose. I removed the regulator and used full 150 psi. Worked pretty well, a couple of times the check valve didn't like the high pressure and blew bubbles in my can of chassis saver, after that I just made sure to squeeze trigger slowly. I'm going to flip frame and do another pass, think it will do a good job.
Both are a pain. If you dont have a shop full of tools, id send them out. I have an entire auto repair shop at my disposal and if I had the extra money, I'd pay someone else. I had stuff that would work, or was able to fab something up instead of buying the tools. With your hp, I would get a set of trailing arms from vansteel or another vendor that will use heavy duty spindles and get it all set up perfect for you. Those rear bearings are stupid. By the time you buy spacers, bearings, possibly spindles, dust shield, park brake, rotors, bushings, etc.. It's a bargain to get a rebuilt set.
I didn't do a rebuild on the rear diff, I replaced seals, replaced side yokes, replaced pinion bearing, cleaned everything up. Gears look brand new, gear lash was good. Posi worked good, breakaway torque was in spec, so I didn't even mess with it.
The winter after I get it driving again, I'll consider rebuilding the rear diff, I'm going to make a list of things that need attention and start taking care of those over time. Coilover rear susp is high on list.
Will have more pics this week. Have made some decent progress. Rear diff is back together and painted, one trailing arm is rebuilt (aside from brake shield), other arm is apart. Got a bunch of parts in too. Should start putting parts back on this week.
Lots of long nights getting dirty... We are all sitting on thee side lines watching 
