First engine pull!! Now what to do??
FIRE YOUR CFO....now, before your costs exceed the budget by at lease double....lol
Ken
Scrub anything that is not easily replaceable after you get done with the engine.
Start with the INSIDE of the engine first, then work your way out.
I spent as much money as I could on the GUTS of my engine...cam, lifters, rods, heads, etc. Even though I knew I was giving something up, I kept my Winter's intake. I also re-used my beat up oil pan. Those two things saved me $800 and are on my "list" for replacement.
Spread your money too thin onto the suspension and your engine build will suffer. You can tackle the suspension another day. If it is THAT bad, put in new stocker rubber and soldier on. It's a marathon, not a sprint.
And I'd repeat the "pull the trans" sentiment. It is very easy at this point and will allow you to clean those bits up as well.
Now's also a great time to get intimately familiar with your firewall. I spent EASILY 40 hours prepping my engine bay and it probably didn't cost me $40 total. Very satisfying.
So you know, my CFO gave me a $3k limit also. All I did was drag the build over fiscal years. Ended up costing me $5,500, but I am VERY satisfied with the result. So is she. It ultimately took me about 20 months (Oct 2012 to May 2014), but it was worth every minute.
Another aside: DON'T take apart any more than you need to. The death of many projects is "while-i'm-at-it-itis" which results in taking apart a huge chunk of the car and the re-assembly task becomes overwhelming. Stick to the engine bay. Trust me...it will be enough.
Useful investments for the future: 60 or 80 gallon air compressor, sand blast cabinet, and impact driver. You will use them many, many times and will save you their cost very quickly.
Last edited by keithinspace; Dec 7, 2015 at 09:49 AM.
I agree with others that have said - pull trans, plan on going over budget, and clean everything you can while your in there, cleaning is cheap and I find it enjoyable and makes for a much better finished product.
Scrub anything that is not easily replaceable after you get done with the engine.
Start with the INSIDE of the engine first, then work your way out.
I spent as much money as I could on the GUTS of my engine...cam, lifters, rods, heads, etc. Even though I knew I was giving something up, I kept my Winter's intake. I also re-used my beat up oil pan. Those two things saved me $800 and are on my "list" for replacement.
Spread your money too thin onto the suspension and your engine build will suffer. You can tackle the suspension another day. If it is THAT bad, put in new stocker rubber and soldier on. It's a marathon, not a sprint.
And I'd repeat the "pull the trans" sentiment. It is very easy at this point and will allow you to clean those bits up as well.
Now's also a great time to get intimately familiar with your firewall. I spent EASILY 40 hours prepping my engine bay and it probably didn't cost me $40 total. Very satisfying.
So you know, my CFO gave me a $3k limit also. All I did was drag the build over fiscal years. Ended up costing me $5,500, but I am VERY satisfied with the result. So is she. It ultimately took me about 20 months (Oct 2012 to May 2014), but it was worth every minute.
Another aside: DON'T take apart any more than you need to. The death of many projects is "while-i'm-at-it-itis" which results in taking apart a huge chunk of the car and the re-assembly task becomes overwhelming. Stick to the engine bay. Trust me...it will be enough.
Useful investments for the future: 60 or 80 gallon air compressor, sand blast cabinet, and impact driver. You will use them many, many times and will save you their cost very quickly.
Scrub anything that is not easily replaceable after you get done with the engine.
Start with the INSIDE of the engine first, then work your way out.
I spent as much money as I could on the GUTS of my engine...cam, lifters, rods, heads, etc. Even though I knew I was giving something up, I kept my Winter's intake. I also re-used my beat up oil pan. Those two things saved me $800 and are on my "list" for replacement.
Spread your money too thin onto the suspension and your engine build will suffer. You can tackle the suspension another day. If it is THAT bad, put in new stocker rubber and soldier on. It's a marathon, not a sprint.
And I'd repeat the "pull the trans" sentiment. It is very easy at this point and will allow you to clean those bits up as well.
Now's also a great time to get intimately familiar with your firewall. I spent EASILY 40 hours prepping my engine bay and it probably didn't cost me $40 total. Very satisfying.
So you know, my CFO gave me a $3k limit also. All I did was drag the build over fiscal years. Ended up costing me $5,500, but I am VERY satisfied with the result. So is she. It ultimately took me about 20 months (Oct 2012 to May 2014), but it was worth every minute.
Another aside: DON'T take apart any more than you need to. The death of many projects is "while-i'm-at-it-itis" which results in taking apart a huge chunk of the car and the re-assembly task becomes overwhelming. Stick to the engine bay. Trust me...it will be enough.
Useful investments for the future: 60 or 80 gallon air compressor, sand blast cabinet, and impact driver. You will use them many, many times and will save you their cost very quickly.
Another aside: DON'T take apart any more than you need to. The death of many projects is "while-i'm-at-it-itis" which results in taking apart a huge chunk of the car and the re-assembly task becomes overwhelming. Stick to the engine bay. Trust me...it will be enough.
This is where I am on the 'fence'. Although I do agree with his opinion and advice which is VERY GOOD to someone doing this for the first time. the part that I have a problem with is that if 'something' is NOT attended to when it can be done much easier with the engine out, etc. Then it would be foolish (in my opinion) to skip it and then have to go back and address it with parts in the way and the time to do it is now greatly increased.
I can say that I would suggest much like 'keithinspace' did if you read between the lines is taking too much off at one time. And I can say that if you do start to work in an area for what ever reason...do not get so far ahead of yourself that what you did remove you can not remember how to re-install. Its fun taking things apart...but sometimes NOT so much fun getting them back on again. THAT is where OVERWHELMING can come into play rather quickly.
Anything I can add is to sit down and try to work on a spread sheet of what you KNOW you have to spend money on and the costs for those items. Because doing this type of work for people everyday that have budgets or only want to spend 'X'. There is a 'fine line' on me being able to meet there budget or spending limit. Because I am not going to do something that is not correct. And if I can not get the 'numbers' to work...they can come get their car. Sometime when certain areas are being worked on that are of such importance.....being on a budget and sacrificing quality can come back and haunt you.
DUB
It s your life on the line out on the road .....don't be stupid or cheap
there will lots of stuff you'll see, and as Dub said makes no sense to put it back together to fail .......it will cost more to take it all apart again.

Good luck
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Dec 7, 2015 at 06:24 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...make/chevrolet

Fred





I was looking at that route - I have a friend that owns a Machine Shop, owes me some favors- yet rebuilding mine would have cost more....
Browsing the Corvette Forum classifieds- I found this sweet deal from fellow forum member-David AKA "ALLC34ME"
So if you don't rush out and buy stuff- there's some great deals out there!!!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...50-engine.html
Here it is in it's new home-
Another aside: DON'T take apart any more than you need to. The death of many projects is "while-i'm-at-it-itis" which results in taking apart a huge chunk of the car and the re-assembly task becomes overwhelming. Stick to the engine bay. Trust me...it will be enough.
This is where I am on the 'fence'. Although I do agree with his opinion and advice which is VERY GOOD to someone doing this for the first time. the part that I have a problem with is that if 'something' is NOT attended to when it can be done much easier with the engine out, etc. Then it would be foolish (in my opinion) to skip it and then have to go back and address it with parts in the way and the time to do it is now greatly increased.
I can say that I would suggest much like 'keithinspace' did if you read between the lines is taking too much off at one time. And I can say that if you do start to work in an area for what ever reason...do not get so far ahead of yourself that what you did remove you can not remember how to re-install. Its fun taking things apart...but sometimes NOT so much fun getting them back on again. THAT is where OVERWHELMING can come into play rather quickly.
Anything I can add is to sit down and try to work on a spread sheet of what you KNOW you have to spend money on and the costs for those items. Because doing this type of work for people everyday that have budgets or only want to spend 'X'. There is a 'fine line' on me being able to meet there budget or spending limit. Because I am not going to do something that is not correct. And if I can not get the 'numbers' to work...they can come get their car. Sometime when certain areas are being worked on that are of such importance.....being on a budget and sacrificing quality can come back and haunt you.
DUB
So a cousin came over and checked things out and immediately said "replace your throw out bearing while the engine is out". He showed me that it was worn out and a cheap fix.
Those are some of the things I'm looking out for, somebody to say "hey definitely need to do -----------"
To do stuff
1. Replace Worn out suspension parts
2. Replace Clutch release bearing
3. Clean and or scrub engine compartment (i pressure washed mine)
4. Wirewheel metal things
5. Drop in new engine and go zoom zoom





1. Main bearings
2. Cam shaft kit and bearings ( Kit has lifters )
3. Higher compression pistons/ rings. You can rent a hone and keep the piston diameter the same
4. New pushrods.
5. Valve job possibly new valves/ springs etc.
You probably dont need to deck your block or bore your cylinders. That will save money as long as you are just wanting a more reliable motor and not some 400+ hp monster. You can reuse your oil pump, pan ,valve covers etc. You can use your old intake and carb and replace those when you can afford them. Stuff you can get to without pulling the engine/trans is what you need now. You can do any fancy porting on your heads without pulling the motor. Just go for reliable and having a fresh bottom end and higher compression 10.5:1 pistons can give you 50 more horse. If you have any cash left get a bigger carb or rebuild and rejet the old to give you what you need for the compression you're running. Ive had to do cheap and doing it youself is easy if you can follow instructions. You need to use a good torque wrench and follow an assembly guide. Its not rocket science for a close to stock motor. Racing engines are a different monster and are not for the budget builder like myself, but maybe someday.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Dec 7, 2015 at 08:25 PM.
Be prepared to remove the transmission. The reason being....getting the engine out is one thing.....trying to get the clutch disc to PERFECTLY index to the input shaft of the transmission is another thing ENTIRELY. DAMAGE TO NEW PARTS CAN RESULT!!!!
I have been doing this stuff for 30 years and I personally prefer to have the engine and transmission joined when it is hanging from my chain hoist and then put BOTH in at the same time...using an engine tilter attached to the engine.
It depends on what you want when you get done....in regards to how good your engine compartment looks, etc. We do not knwo that...so advising you to do 'this and that' may not be a concern to you and a waste of time providing our personal thoughts Knowing what you want to achieve helps greatly.
Be prepared to obtain some tools to aid you in doing the front suspension IF....repeat ...IF you plan on doing the front suspension when the engine is out of the car. That is IF you are concerned about safety. ( just my opinion on that).
Using a used LT1...which I am assuming is NOT the fuel injected LT1....hopefully goes GREAT for you. I know that there are good used engines...ESPECIALLY if you can hear it run and check it out before it is pulled......but there are ones that could be a 'thorn in your side' also. JUST being realistic. Because I have encountered this when people bring me used engines expecting me to perform 'miracles' to it when sometimes I can not do it because there are internal problems that I can not put a 'Band-aid' on and send out the door.
DUB
If you want engine work done I HIGHLY recommend the good guys at Cincy Speed in Cincinnati, Ohio. I have known the owner and lead tech for well over a decade. Give them a call at (513) 821-2221 and tell them that Lee sent you.

UPDATE!
I called and was told that "Terry" across the street rebuilds engines
(513) 821-0444
Throwout bearing? Of course.
Pilot busing? No brainer.
Feel the tailshaft universal and it's 'crunchy'? Address it.
Front suspension bushings petrified or non-existent? Replace them. Of course.
My point was to not think that by tearing into the engine bay, that would be an absolutely brilliant time to ALSO remove the entire dashboard system just so you can see the other end of the wire. That's what firewall connectors are for. You can get to them later.
And don't carry the engine project all the way through the rear end. That's a project in itself.
That was my point. Do what needs doing, but remember how easy it is to 'stall out' during the reassembly process.
I know there were some moments during my engine reassembly process where I had to take the "one bolt at a time" approach. I committed to only putting in ONE BOLT while I was taking the dog outside or had a few minutes to myself. ONE BOLT each time. Before I knew it, I had put in 50 bolts and several components, helping me see the light at the end of the tunnel. THEN I was able to happily pour a Saturday into the car knowing I would see appreciable progress by the end of the day.













