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This topic illustrates why we always completely strip the body of all paint and primer before trying to put a quality paint job on any classic car. You never know what has previously been put on the car and quality automotive paints usually have terrible reactions when sprayed on these other paints.
This topic illustrates why we always completely strip the body of all paint and primer before trying to put a quality paint job on any classic car. You never know what has previously been put on the car and quality automotive paints usually have terrible reactions when sprayed on these other paints.
To the OP.............all right, you've run low on funds, after dong the bulk of the hard work, that is, stripping the car. Rust Oleum, is a good paint, HOWEVER, it is designed/formulated for a specific application....rust prevention/resistance on metals. I believe it even has "fish oil" as one of it's ingredients. A Corvette body is NOT metal, so why would you want to use Rust Oleum on it? Secondly, at some time you may want to paint the car properly. You want a paint that can be effectively removed in the future.
I'm not familiar with paints that are sold in the UK, but if you're insistent on using a roller for your application, why not seek out a basic enamel paint, with the primer that is made/recommenced by the same paint manufacturer?
To the OP.............all right, you've run low on funds, after dong the bulk of the hard work, that is, stripping the car. Rust Oleum, is a good paint, HOWEVER, it is designed/formulated for a specific application....rust prevention/resistance on metals. I believe it even has "fish oil" as one of it's ingredients. A Corvette body is NOT metal, so why would you want to use Rust Oleum on it? Secondly, at some time you may want to paint the car properly. You want a paint that can be effectively removed in the future.
I'm not familiar with paints that are sold in the UK, but if you're insistent on using a roller for your application, why not seek out a basic enamel paint, with the primer that is made/recommenced by the same paint manufacturer?
I agree to what you guys are saying. I know full well doing any diy paint job is not the best thing to do and nearly heart breaking for me. it will probably cause a lot more work down the line when I'm able to get it painted properly. I had rustoleum in mind as I have seen pretty good results so was thinking down that route. Now the idea of a enamel paint has come up I will look into that and could well be the better choice. I take it that enamel paint would be easier to remove then? It's all a learning process for me and appreciate any input 👍
I know full well doing any diy paint job is not the best thing to do and nearly heart breaking for me. it will probably cause a lot more work down the line when I'm able to get it painted properly.
Not necessarily true. If you prep the car right, and use a good quality automotive paint with compatible primer, it can be done for a reasonable cost. Mine looks pretty good, painted in my garage, with PPG acrylic urethane, for under $800. Many other forum members have also painted their own cars, with excellent results, without having to spend 10 grand or more.
My thoughts, and I have been through a few of these things myself. DO the body work, as good as you can. Read up, there are lots of sources on painting a car. FIberglass adds something extra, but there is a wealth of knowledge. Get the car as good as you can then go to MAACO ! I have had a 64 Impala, 65 Mustang and 93 nissan 300ZX done by them at various times. Pick whatever level of paint you can afford. At the end of the day it won't cost you much more than doing it yourself. Sure, they were not show quality jobs, but when the first idiot backs into your YELLOW Z because he didn't see it, you won't be quite as upset as you would if you spent $5000. They usually have some type of sale going on so your basic paint can be done for about $300.
My thoughts, and I have been through a few of these things myself. DO the body work, as good as you can. Read up, there are lots of sources on painting a car. FIberglass adds something extra, but there is a wealth of knowledge. Get the car as good as you can then go to MAACO! I have had a 64 Impala, 65 Mustang and 93 nissan 300ZX done by them at various times. Pick whatever level of paint you can afford. At the end of the day it won't cost you much more than doing it yourself. Sure, they were not show quality jobs, but when the first idiot backs into your YELLOW Z because he didn't see it, you won't be quite as upset as you would if you spent $5000. They usually have some type of sale going on so your basic paint can be done for about $300.
...I was meaning to ask about the type of primer that is used normally. Just gathering my options if there is not a suitable rustoleum primer...
Your choice of paint, in your case Rustoleum, necessities your choice of primer. The primer must be compatible with your choice of exterior paint. If you intend to use Rustoleum as a color coat, you must use a primer compatible with Rustoleum. Your best source for compatability would be from the Rustoleum folks.
FWIW St. Louis used lacquer based primers with acrylic lacquer color coats.
With you being in the UK...look for an auto paint supplier that carries ICI AUTOCOLOR....which here in the US is called NEXA.
I use this stuff and their primers are awesome if that is something that you want to use. I use other types of primers mainly because ICI does not offer what I want....but I do use their primers/sealers in my collision repairs where my super high build primers are not needed.
AND...from certification classes I have attended....I do know that in Europe...it is NOT uncommon for the shop to roll on primer with a special roller. It is nothing that is new.
I can not agree with using or bash Rustoleum. You have to really be aware of WHAT IS IN the product. And what might be bad for you is if the person you talk to actually KNOWS what they are talking about....because they have used it and KNOW how it works....instead of reading something off a sheet or computer screen....which I am not saying is BAD....but I prefer REAL WORLD RESULTS.
And YES....I do agree partially...that using a product line from beginning to end is the safest/easiest way to do it...BUT that does not mean that it has to be done that way. mainly because there are companies that sell strictly clear coat and no colors...and if that mentality were used....they would not sell anything at all. I use different products from different manufactures and once I got 'things' dialed-in...I do not have any issues with adhesion or any paint defects.
Are you aware there is a Paint/Body forum under General Corvette Topics? You will get some more responders there who may have better info for you.
Also whatever you put on you are going to have to take off later. You are likely not enhancing the resale value. I have seen some discussion on PlastiDip which reputedly comes off easily enough. I have no first hand knowledge on that or Rustoleum. PlastiDip or vinyl wrap would preserve the harder job of stripping the car.
Finally, IMHO, whatever is worth doing is worth doing well!
I have painted a truck of mine using rustolem and sprayed it, it looked decent, but rustolem is not very UV resistant, you will be constantly waxing it to keep it shiny.
Look into Summits painting line, you can buy their 2k high solid primer for $100 and a gallon of their single stage paint is $120, this is for automotive paint.
If you do not have the ability to spray the material, I would have a body shop shoot the primer. Bring the car home and sand it, then have them shoot the paint.
This is my ****** that I am currently painting using Summits single stage and it works great.
There should be a paint manufacture in the UK that has similar paint system.
I'm in the middle of doing my own paint as well on my 78. I should be finished in a few weeks and I think it looks awesome so far... nobody ever believes I'm doing it with a roller for $100. I personally decided to use the Interlux Brightside instead of Rustoleum as it is made for Fiberglass, seems to have a much higher shine, and is said to last way longer than Rustoleum with a good shine the whole time. It's only a little more than Rustoleum, though there are fewer color choices. Here's some pics, hope to show the final product soon! (This is only one full coat, needs a few more).
I'd definitely be looking into a vinyl wrap. Seems like a no brainer to me if you're on a budget and willing to put the time in. There are almost a limitless amount of colors or patterns you can get. You should also be able to do the whole car for ~$500.
Nothing wrong with saving a few bucks (quids for OP), but man would I deal the price down on a Corvette painted with that stuff...
I will only use automotive paint when I will paint my corvette, no doubt.
That's assuming you could tell the difference. A job done well with good paint and you'd never be able to tell; hell people don't even believe me when I tell them I rolled it. The paint I'm using is made for fiberglass boats... I'm pretty sure it will hold up just fine. Rustoleum I would definitely consider a little more suspect, but using the Interlux Brightside I feel just fine about it.
Why not just put a decent primer on it for now? Then down the road when you have the funds for a paint job, you will have way less work to do. You definitely don't want to leave the fiberglass bare if it's going to sit outside.
Primer will not weatherproof your car. Have seen plenty of cars rusting with just primer. I'll re-iterate my post that once you've done the prep work putting something on that requires doing it again with the expectation of doing it right later is just a waste of time. Look into Plasti-dip as it is claimed to be easy to remove
Primer will not weatherproof your car. Have seen plenty of cars rusting with just primer. I'll re-iterate my post that once you've done the prep work putting something on that requires doing it again with the expectation of doing it right later is just a waste of time. Look into Plasti-dip as it is claimed to be easy to remove
