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How and what are you guys using to clean your rockers? My last set had dings which I tapped out but, then I had to polish them to get them uniform. Which removed I guess the clear coating
Hi C,
The 'clear coating' you removed was actually clear anodizing.
Now that the anodizing is gone you can polish the aluminum surface as you'd like and then use a clear top coat of your choice to protect the finish you created.
Regards,
Alan
Hi C,
Aren't there some clear finishes specially for aluminum parts?
I'd be looking at those and follow their recommendations for surface prep before applying.
Regards,
Alan
The anodized layer is also a 'hard coat' for the part. It makes the part more resistant to nicks/road-rash and also give the soft aluminum part better strength. If you remove the anodizing, the part will be prone to nicks/dings and can be bent merely with poor handling/installation.
FYI...just so that you are aware of the potential problems when the anodizing is removed.
[QUOTE=7T1vette;1591202807]The anodized layer is also a 'hard coat' for the part. It makes the part more resistant to nicks/road-rash and also give the soft aluminum part better strength. If you remove the anodizing, the part will be prone to nicks/dings and can be bent merely with poor handling/installation.
FYI...just so that you are aware of the potential problems when the anodizing is removed
I'm looking for a method of cleaning without losing the coating
I haven't found such a process, yet. It appears that the anodized layer is what gets cloudy. And to shine it up, you have to remove that layer. Then you are left with a soft aluminum part.
If it needs to be 'purty', sand off the anodized layer, shine up the aluminum part (different grades of sandpaper, then compound, then polish and buff) and give it a clearcoat of durable exterior paint that bonds with metal (like that used to clearcoat aluminum wheels).
If you get the car 'judged', they may knock off for the part not being "stock". So, you could buy new panels. (Why new non-factory rockers would be judged better than original parts with some deterioration of the anodizing, I have no idea. But that's what might happen.)
Last edited by 7T1vette; Dec 29, 2015 at 01:43 AM.
There are some that have had them RE-anodized...Big $$$
I had mine done, albeit over a decade ago, was around $125. I had to find a shop that specialized in sulfur anodizing (businesses that service military, typically).
When new, those rocker panels were not 'bright & shiny'. They were more uniform in surface appearance, but they were a semi-flat type finish. Anodizing is transluscent, rather than totally transparent. So, if you want brightly polished aluminum, that's NOT what came on a new C3.
P.S. Nothing wrong with 'bright & shiny'; for that you would need to strip anodized layer, sand/polish the aluminum to the finish required, then clearcoat with a good exterior clear paint for metals.
I took my original rockers to a professional polishing place that I have been using for my chrome. It turned out so stunning that I really dont care what the up keep on them is. Which so far has been minimal effort.
And fwiw, why have dull aluminum on a custom car? Maybe if you are going for an oem build. Maybe. Awww, no, sorry just cannot understand it.
Last edited by Sunstroked; Dec 31, 2015 at 12:18 AM.
I took my original rockers to a professional polishing place that I have been using for my chrome. It turned out so stunning that I really dont care what the up keep on them is. Which so far has been minimal effort.
I have considerable experience clear anodizing small parts in my garage. The best alternative to clear anodizing is to polish the panels, then have them clear powder coated.
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