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I am looking at getting a 72 coupe base engine auto with a/c,power windows, power steering with tilt/tele pretty loaded but no leather. One owner, started to be restored but was not finished. Interior dash is in but that's it, seats,door panels in very nice shape(original to car). Body is back on new frame(rusted out) with all new rebuilt suspension components, engine is bolted in but that's it as far as the motor all of it needs finished. Head lights are in but all the vac lines need installed, bumpers need installed. Rear quarter needs some paint work( got some bad scratches from sitting the last 5-6 yrs).
So, my question is what's it worth????
I will post some pictures in the morning.
How much are they asking for it? What is missing? What are your plans for the car?
As it needs a bit of work, how much of the work can you do? Why did the owner stop working on the car?
Not to put the project down as I love the body lines on all the C-3's, its really not a rare one. But its still a Vette that needs attention.
Fix the brakes first. Old Chinese proverb as told to me by my neighbor, "Go fast car need stop fast brakes!". Looks like the body is in great shape. What is the status of teh engine?
If you can do it and want to jump in the pool go for it. But its going take some cash to get out the deep end if you know what I mean.
Could be an awesome project or someones elses migraine.
Hi Wb,
You say "one owner started"…. has this car been passed along a couple of times?
Do you know why the current owner has decided to abandon the project, and sell it?
If he just 'lost interest' it's one thing, but if he was 'scared off' it's another.
Often cars with rusty frames have birdcage rust too…. have you checked for that?
$6500?
Regards,
Alan
The owner has moved and now only has a small garage and his son has gone off to college. I will restate the one owner car to a one family car. The cage is actually good the brakes are all redone. They have all the parts to finish except for exhaust.
Did you check the stamp pad for matching numbers? It makes a difference in what the peak value may be when finished, give you an idea of what headroom you would have if you consider restoring.
The owner has moved and now only has a small garage and his son has gone off to college. I will restate the one owner car to a one family car. The cage is actually good the brakes are all redone. They have all the parts to finish except for exhaust.
Have you seen the cage for yourself? Do you know that they stripped off everything necessary to expose all the crucial areas? This is a make or break item on a C3.
Have you seen the cage for yourself? Do you know that they stripped off everything necessary to expose all the crucial areas? This is a make or break item on a C3.
If you could be specific, where would you look on the birdcage if a project car was offered to you for typically bad areas?
Hi S,
There are several places to look. Some not easily visible without the owners permission since it involves disassembly.
1.Look through the windshield at the a-pillars.
2.Look at the bottom of the a-pillars and the cowl corners by raising the the wiper door.
3.Look at the bottom of bottoms of the hinge pillars by removing the interior kick panels.
4.Look up under the passenger side dash panel at the interior side of the cowl by laying on the floor and looking up with a flashlight.
5.Look at the bottom of the lock pillars by looking in through the small access plates in the front of each rear fender well.
I'd do them in 1, 2, 4, 5, 3.
You also need to check the frame for rust.
Regards,
Alan
Hi S,
There are several places to look. Some not easily visible without the owners permission since it involves disassembly.
1.Look through the windshield at the a-pillars.
2.Look at the bottom of the a-pillars and the cowl corners by raising the the wiper door.
3.Look at the bottom of bottoms of the hinge pillars by removing the interior kick panels.
4.Look up under the passenger side dash panel at the interior side of the cowl by laying on the floor and looking up with a flashlight.
5.Look at the bottom of the lock pillars by looking in through the small access plates in the front of each rear fender well.
I'd do them in 1, 2, 4, 5, 3.
You also need to check the frame for rust.
Regards,
Alan
If I understand all this correctly, really knowing the condition of the cage requires better access to the pillars and header than that. All the outer trim has to be removed, and that requires also removing the windshield. The backside of the birdcage below the windshield can also be problematic. Early models not so much, but it's difficult to see up under the dash in C3s with AC, even using a bore scope. Then there's the area under the t-top trim. Mine has rivets through the center trim at the rear, so inspection would require drilling. All in all, I think it's very difficult to buy a C3 or older Vette with any real assurance that the cage is structurally sound. Other than a thorough disassembly and visual inspection, you would have to know the long-term history of the car, including whether the weatherstripping was kept in good condition (replaced as necessary), and even stupid details like how often the car was left out in the rain or subjected to high-pressure car washes. I bought my own C3 without understanding any of this, and I'm concerned now about spending a lot of money on the car without knowing its condition. A rusted-through birdcage turns a C3 into a parts vehicle for most owners.
I will be going to look at the 72 this weekend. I have gotten some pics of the birdcage and it all looks good, but obviously I will be looking at everything and confirming that all the parts to finish the car are there. Thanks for the input so far.
If I understand all this correctly, really knowing the condition of the cage requires better access to the pillars and header than that. All the outer trim has to be removed, and that requires also removing the windshield. The backside of the birdcage below the windshield can also be problematic. Early models not so much, but it's difficult to see up under the dash in C3s with AC, even using a bore scope. Then there's the area under the t-top trim. Mine has rivets through the center trim at the rear, so inspection would require drilling. All in all, I think it's very difficult to buy a C3 or older Vette with any real assurance that the cage is structurally sound. Other than a thorough disassembly and visual inspection, you would have to know the long-term history of the car, including whether the weatherstripping was kept in good condition (replaced as necessary), and even stupid details like how often the car was left out in the rain or subjected to high-pressure car washes. I bought my own C3 without understanding any of this, and I'm concerned now about spending a lot of money on the car without knowing its condition. A rusted-through birdcage turns a C3 into a parts vehicle for most owners.
Have any knowledgeable C3 folks come up with a way to determine the probability of extensive birdcage damage without taking off various trim pieces? Buying these cars at auctions and car meets sounds like a crap shoot, especially those that command values north of $25K. Crawling over a car with a screwdriver wouldn't be well received at an event like this. JMHO
You have to look at the items you can see that will give you an indication of condition. There was recently a 69 convertible on eBay that shows a picture of the vin tag. Looking at the tag you can see that a portion has been rusted away and a lot of sealer applied. I can guarantee that there is a lot more rust there. However I wouldn't expect to start taking someone's car apart. That isn't going to happen.
You have to look at the items you can see that will give you an indication of condition. There was recently a 69 convertible on eBay that shows a picture of the vin tag. Looking at the tag you can see that a portion has been rusted away and a lot of sealer applied. I can guarantee that there is a lot more rust there. However I wouldn't expect to start taking someone's car apart. That isn't going to happen.
Much of the passenger compartment framework is "on top" in steel-bodied cars, not hidden under fiberglass. Not only is it easier to determine condition, it's generally much less expensive to repair. I wonder how long it will be before this begins to degrade the market for the older Vettes that don't qualify as collectible? Maybe it already has. I probably wouldn't have bought mine if I'd known about this at the time.