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I'll be doing a carpet install on a 72 convertible. There is an excellent thread from 2002 on the subject. What I am wondering is if I would have room (between the carpet and the body) for some type of heat and/or sound proofing, or whether it would be too thick to then lay the new carpet? Any suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
Heat/soundproofing is a great idea! I did have to remove the backing from the carpet in several places so the carpet would lay down in curved areas........good news is-----the heat/soundproofing was actually better than the backing that I had to remove..................
Heat/soundproofing is a great idea! I did have to remove the backing from the carpet in several places so the carpet would lay down in curved areas........good news is-----the heat/soundproofing was actually better than the backing that I had to remove..................
WOW! That looks amazing. What was the heat shielding kit you used?
Reflectix from Lowe's will work. You can also purchase sound/insulation kits through the aftermarket providers. 1/8" material will not affect carpet fit.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Mar 17, 2016 at 09:04 AM.
Reflectix from Lowe's will work. You can also purchase sound/insulation kits through the aftermarket providers. 1/8" material will not affect carpet fit.
Is 1/8" thick enough to make a noticeable difference?
I am mostly looking for heat shielding (as it is a convertible). Has anyone heard of Lizard Skin, and do you recommend it? One issue I would have is that it adheres to the area it is sprayed on. If there are any crayon markings, I would hate to cover those up. Your thoughts?
I used double layers in places where the most heat/noise was....I also used THICK (not the thin stuff) aluminumized HVAC duct tape to hold the edges of the insulation in place on the fiberglass flooring/firewall/etx----it doesn't destroy the markings and completely seals the overlapping insulation which gives a smooth look.
I used double layers in places where the most heat/noise was....I also used THICK (not the thin stuff) aluminumized HVAC duct tape to hold the edges of the insulation in place on the fiberglass flooring/firewall/etx----it doesn't destroy the markings and completely seals the overlapping insulation which gives a smooth look.
What type of insulation (and what thickness) did you use? Did you notice a significant reduction in heat? Also, when using the thick HVAC tape, is that applied on top of the seams, or is it a double sided tape used underneath the insulation? Thanks for you help with this.
Carpet install at the factory also had some 1/2" thick jute pads located over hot-spots, so yes, you will have room for some additional material. I think jute padding is still a good idea; it is heat resistant and reduces sound level somewhat. The factory install also had some heavy cardboard that was impregnated with tar to deaden sound in specific areas. Do some research and decide what you need and where you need it. IMO, you do NOT need heat insulation in the storage compartment area, but some soundproofing would be good there.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 17, 2016 at 09:28 PM.
Carpet install at the factory also had some 1/2" thick jute pads located over hot-spots, so yes, you will have room for some additional material. I think jute padding is still a good idea; it is heat resistant and reduces sound level somewhat. The factory install also had some heavy cardboard that was impregnated with tar to deaden sound in specific areas. Do some research and decide what you need and where you need it. IMO, you do NOT need heat insulation in the storage compartment area, but some soundproofing would be good there.
Sounds like good advice. I will check it out. And I think your point is well taken. I will apply the soundproofing on the storage area as well. Thanks!!
I used double layers in places where the most heat/noise was....I also used THICK (not the thin stuff) aluminumized HVAC duct tape to hold the edges of the insulation in place on the fiberglass flooring/firewall/etx----it doesn't destroy the markings and completely seals the overlapping insulation which gives a smooth look.
So, I think I am leaning toward either the Eastwood X-Mat or the Dynamat. They both seem to have great reviews. The X-Mat is about 1/2 the price and I am trying to figure out why. Anyway, my question for you is, will it stick well to the fiberglass? I know you suggest thick HVAC duct tape for the edges, but my question is, will the sticky back of the insulation stick fairly well to the fiberglass. Thanks!!
I am mostly looking for heat shielding (as it is a convertible). Has anyone heard of Lizard Skin, and do you recommend it? One issue I would have is that it adheres to the area it is sprayed on. If there are any crayon markings, I would hate to cover those up. Your thoughts?
I plan to use lizard skin. Seems to have great reviews from those that have used it with substantial sound / heat reduction (using both products). My car is COMPLETELY bare / stripped, but may not be an option for someone with the majority of the interior in whereas the other products mentioned would be a better bet.
I plan to use lizard skin. Seems to have great reviews from those that have used it with substantial sound / heat reduction (using both products). My car is COMPLETELY bare / stripped, but may not be an option for someone with the majority of the interior in whereas the other products mentioned would be a better bet.
Right! Mine is not stripped and even if I took most of the interior out, I would fear the overspray. I liked the idea of Lizard Skin, but think I will likely go with the Dynamat. I am just wondering if doubling up on the Dynamat would provide extra heat and sound proofing, or if it would be a waste of money. Thanks for the thoughts!!
Q -- What parts of the car/truck do you apply it to?
A -- For best results, it is recommended to coat the entire interior with both CI and SC. Typical applications for both products include firewalls, floor pans, transmission tunnels, doors, hoods, trunk lids, under headliners, inside fenders, panel van walls and any other areas that allow heat and/or sound into the interior.
Q -- Can it be used as an undercoating to prevent starring?
A -- Yes, both LizardSkin CI and LizardSkin SC can be used on the interior or exterior of the vehicle. Example: fenders, rear wheels, firewall, transmission tunnel and floorboards. (*See what parts of the car do I apply it to*)
I recently used this material from Frost King along with 1" tape made of same material for small seams, hard to reach areas. Entire interior (less the doors) was completed using this stuff, took about 4 rolls. Ran it up the firewall to cut the heat buildup. Self adhesive, easy to cut/install and doesn't affect carpet install too much. Some places like the rear deck for storage/battery compartment needs trimming because the plastic deck lids are rather tight fit. Be sure to line the battery compartment with carpet or equiv otherwise since it is aluminum foil you will end up with an unintended light show of sorts. About $80 - $100 for all the materials which is a lot less than the pre-fab sound deadening kits which I saw were in the $400-$500 range. Pleased with the results, overall quieter, sound system is noticeably improved.
sound proofing/heat shield
home depot
Last edited by idtpes; Nov 6, 2016 at 12:18 PM.
Reason: spelling ;-)
Use what you like....but I use the Dynamat Extreme and DynaPad. To date...I have never had a compliant about noise or heat.
I have a customer with a 1974 that I did who is a member here on the forum and if you want to ask him how well it does. PM me and I can get you his name here on the forum. AS he will tell you...he can sell ice cream out of his car in the dead of summer with the A/C on.
Shielding for carpet install?
