69 C3 convertible restore
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 4
From: MD
69 C3 convertible restore
Weathers getting better and hoped to get back on my project. It looked OK when I bought it but went downhill quickly.
I have the birdcage repaired and back together. Still need to repair upper corners but things are moving in the right direction I'm sure to have many questions as this goes along.
I have the birdcage repaired and back together. Still need to repair upper corners but things are moving in the right direction I'm sure to have many questions as this goes along.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
Weathers getting better and hoped to get back on my project. It looked OK when I bought it but went downhill quickly.
I have the birdcage repaired and back together. Still need to repair upper corners but things are moving in the right direction I'm sure to have many questions as this goes along.
I have the birdcage repaired and back together. Still need to repair upper corners but things are moving in the right direction I'm sure to have many questions as this goes along.
RVZIO
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 4
From: MD
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 4
From: MD
Thanks Rvzio I've been reading your post and Doorgunners post too. I have started putting the body and birdcage back together. Hope to post a few more pictures and ask a few questions later. Couldn't have made it this far without the Forum!!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,375
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 69,
Cars can be pretty good at hiding problems they may have, especially from someone not quite sure just where to look, and also what the signs they may be seeing really indicate.
It looks like you'll have the 'opportunity' to get to know this 69 QUITE well before you're finished!
It's be interesting to follow along. You're starting about as near as one can be to the actual 'beginning' !!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Cars can be pretty good at hiding problems they may have, especially from someone not quite sure just where to look, and also what the signs they may be seeing really indicate.
It looks like you'll have the 'opportunity' to get to know this 69 QUITE well before you're finished!
It's be interesting to follow along. You're starting about as near as one can be to the actual 'beginning' !!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
RVZIO
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
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From: MD
I had a previous post regarding my decklid springs had been slotted at the mounting hole.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-problem.html
I keep coming back to why? Definitely not factory so maybe the rear surround was replaced and bonded to low?
Measuring straight down to the underbody and up to the lower lip of rear surround I get about 10 1/8" . Any other convertible owners have similar measurement??
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-problem.html
I keep coming back to why? Definitely not factory so maybe the rear surround was replaced and bonded to low?
Measuring straight down to the underbody and up to the lower lip of rear surround I get about 10 1/8" . Any other convertible owners have similar measurement??
Last edited by 69C3dreaming; Mar 20, 2016 at 06:50 PM. Reason: added old link
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
front clip
Hi C3 , I just noticed in the older picture that the front clip was missing the 1" cross bonding strip. Hopefully you have it. I have a pneumatic adhesive gun if you need it when you get to that point. It really saved from hand pumping.
Keep the pictures coming.
RVZIO
Keep the pictures coming.
RVZIO
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
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From: MD
Good eye RVZIO. I have the strip somewhere in my pile of parts. Thankfully my son dropping his bike didn't cause more damage. It's a one piece HL unit, might try and find a good donor with factory glass.Pneumatic gun does sound like the way to go. I may take you up on that offer.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
Good eye RVZIO. I have the strip somewhere in my pile of parts. Thankfully my son dropping his bike didn't cause more damage. It's a one piece HL unit, might try and find a good donor with factory glass.Pneumatic gun does sound like the way to go. I may take you up on that offer.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,601
Likes: 7,048
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
I had a previous post regarding my decklid springs had been slotted at the mounting hole.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-problem.html
I keep coming back to why? Definitely not factory so maybe the rear surround was replaced and bonded to low?
Measuring straight down to the underbody and up to the lower lip of rear surround I get about 10 1/8" . Any other convertible owners have similar measurement??
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-problem.html
I keep coming back to why? Definitely not factory so maybe the rear surround was replaced and bonded to low?
Measuring straight down to the underbody and up to the lower lip of rear surround I get about 10 1/8" . Any other convertible owners have similar measurement??
Mine measure 10 1/8" on my '68.
Last edited by doorgunner; Mar 20, 2016 at 09:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
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From: MD
Doorgunner thanks for the measurement. I hadn't thought about frozen bolts but could be the case. Both sides are the same, new bolts tighten in the slotted area not up higher where the original holes are drilled. Everythings is an adventure with this car.
2026 Loser of the Year
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
good thing I need the experience!
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: MD
My Bubba used tall rubber bushings at the number four mounts. Most of the other aluminium mounts had corroded away and shims had rusted away. I'm starting from scratch..... and believe they sanded the door edges to make the gaps look right with the rubber mounts. I currently have 6 to 7 shims at number four mounts to get the gaps close. It's a new frame from vette products so hopefully that rules out any chassis problems. The adventure continues...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,375
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 69,
Originally the 'shim count' was determined before the frame/chassis even met the body that was going to be dropped on it.
So the shims weren't used to adjust the door gaps. This of course was an 'ideal' situation since both front and rear clips were securely bonded/riveted to the birdcage structure.
How did you determine what shim count to begin with on your new frame?
Many people who no longer have an original shim count for their frame begin with 3 shims on each mount and then add/remove shims as needed. Is that about how you started with your 'unknown' frame?
Regards,
Alan
The fixture used to 'measure' the frame. (note it's still upside down)
The gauge used to determine how many shims were required at each body mount location. Note this picture shows the later rubber bushings rather than the earlier aluminum 'pucks'.
Originally the 'shim count' was determined before the frame/chassis even met the body that was going to be dropped on it.
So the shims weren't used to adjust the door gaps. This of course was an 'ideal' situation since both front and rear clips were securely bonded/riveted to the birdcage structure.
How did you determine what shim count to begin with on your new frame?
Many people who no longer have an original shim count for their frame begin with 3 shims on each mount and then add/remove shims as needed. Is that about how you started with your 'unknown' frame?
Regards,
Alan
The fixture used to 'measure' the frame. (note it's still upside down)
The gauge used to determine how many shims were required at each body mount location. Note this picture shows the later rubber bushings rather than the earlier aluminum 'pucks'.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 4
From: MD
Hi 69,
Originally the 'shim count' was determined before the frame/chassis even met the body that was going to be dropped on it.
So the shims weren't used to adjust the door gaps. This of course was an 'ideal' situation since both front and rear clips were securely bonded/riveted to the birdcage structure.
How did you determine what shim count to begin with on your new frame?
Many people who no longer have an original shim count for their frame begin with 3 shims on each mount and then add/remove shims as needed. Is that about how you started with your 'unknown' frame?
Regards,
Alan
The fixture used to 'measure' the frame. (note it's still upside down)
The gauge used to determine how many shims were required at each body mount location. Note this picture shows the later rubber bushings rather than the earlier aluminum 'pucks'.
Originally the 'shim count' was determined before the frame/chassis even met the body that was going to be dropped on it.
So the shims weren't used to adjust the door gaps. This of course was an 'ideal' situation since both front and rear clips were securely bonded/riveted to the birdcage structure.
How did you determine what shim count to begin with on your new frame?
Many people who no longer have an original shim count for their frame begin with 3 shims on each mount and then add/remove shims as needed. Is that about how you started with your 'unknown' frame?
Regards,
Alan
The fixture used to 'measure' the frame. (note it's still upside down)
The gauge used to determine how many shims were required at each body mount location. Note this picture shows the later rubber bushings rather than the earlier aluminum 'pucks'.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,375
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 69,
I think the only thing I can add is to be sure to note that 2 of the of the dimensions are to the TOP side of the mount (2&3) and the #4 dimension is to the UNDER side of the mount. The symbol appears near the #1 mount dimension too, but it's unclear if that dimension it to the upper or lower side of #1???
Regards,
Alan
I think the only thing I can add is to be sure to note that 2 of the of the dimensions are to the TOP side of the mount (2&3) and the #4 dimension is to the UNDER side of the mount. The symbol appears near the #1 mount dimension too, but it's unclear if that dimension it to the upper or lower side of #1???
Regards,
Alan
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
vette
I know when I went to do my shimming I had the doors on as well as the clip. I started with 3 shims at each location checking door gaps as well as overall body levelness. With the body on my pulley system I was able to lift the body enough to adjust the shims accordingly. The pictures shown are great but they are brand new cars and unfortunately the cars that most of us are restoring all have some kind of story. Its a big important step so be patient and get it to the best your car will allow it to be. Once that is accomplished the other things will start to show what needs to be done. Oh one more thing, don't be surprised if you have no shims at a location or maybe even 2.
You can do it!!! Oh I forgot that I had the correct tire pressure and on the ground. Worked for me, just trying to help, it's your car.
RVZIO
You can do it!!! Oh I forgot that I had the correct tire pressure and on the ground. Worked for me, just trying to help, it's your car.
RVZIO
Last edited by SB64; Mar 24, 2016 at 05:31 PM.