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So far the frame, rear kick up areas, all body mount locations and kick panels areas have been in pretty good shape. Most of the pics can be seen HERE... I finally got up enough nerve to to pull the inside header and pillar post trim to get a look at the birdcage. I only found one small pin hole that ended up about 1/4" X 1/8" after I worked all the loose rusted metal off with a screwdriver....Everything else seem to just be surface rust....The rest passes the screwdriver test as hard as I feel comfortable hitting it that close to the windshield.
Here is my plan....Wire brush the surface rust areas and then apply some rust converter paint, I'll then brush a coat of Rustoleum over that....I also plan to spray the same rust converter inside all the screw holes to help coat the inside of the birdcage.
Now for my question....What should I do about the small rusted hole....? At this time I do not plan on pulling the dash or the front clip off.
Wee, after the wire brushing, do you have a small sander or dremmel? Get it all off, etch prime (UPOL#2or5) and a good paint. Take some VPA and skim coat the pin holes VERY thin. Do all that before you paint. Also SEM sealer in the appropriate places should work. All of what I see compared to what I had looks okay and doable.
RVZIO
Mostly surface rust...nothing major. Wire wheel, clean, then rust converter, then paint. Finally, find out where the water is getting in. T-top seals are most likely culprit; but clean out the drainage routes in the kickpanel areas, too.
Mostly surface rust...nothing major. Wire wheel, clean, then rust converter, then paint. Finally, find out where the water is getting in. T-top seals are most likely culprit; but clean out the drainage routes in the kickpanel areas, too.
Hi Wee,
I think things look quite good.
Because of the location of the rust perforation you found I'd want to get a good look, (well, as good as you can), at the connection of the a-pillar and cowl/hinge pillar to see their condition.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
With the windshield in place you won't get this clear a look but at least see what might be able to learn.
Have you looked at the #2 mount area behind the kick panel? If water has been getting into the birdcage from the top of the windshield, it will drip down into the #2 mount area. Given the condition of your header isn't bad, I wouldn't expect to find serious rust in the #2 mount area though it may give you an idea whether water has been dripping down from inside the channel. A bore scope would be ideal for having a look from underneath, see whats inside the pillar. Were your carpets getting wet? Any hints of water leaking inside?
Thank Ya'll for the advice....It makes me feel much better having some of the forum veterans back up my thoughts that it's in pretty good shape....Nothing a little elbow grease and paint can't take care of.
Originally Posted by BBCorv70
Have you looked at the #2 mount area behind the kick panel? If water has been getting into the birdcage from the top of the windshield, it will drip down into the #2 mount area. Given the condition of your header isn't bad, I wouldn't expect to find serious rust in the #2 mount area though it may give you an idea whether water has been dripping down from inside the channel. A bore scope would be ideal for having a look from underneath, see whats inside the pillar. Were your carpets getting wet? Any hints of water leaking inside?
Yes I have looked at, cleaned up and painted both kick panel areas.
By the looks of the metal parts of the pillar and header trim I think the water was getting in between the birdcage and the trim....I'm not sure how. The carpet doesn't look like it has been wet over the years but I'm sure it was replaced at some point. Since I have owned the car it has only seen a slight mist of rain and only washed twice, no major leaks then.
Here are a few pics of the kick panel areas before any clean up. They cleaned up nice.
Hi Brian,
I think the #2 mount area and hinge pillar area in your pictures look good.
While certainly cars leaked, not all did, and some leaked just a little while some leaked not at all.
I think you should feel pretty good about what you've found!!
Regards,
Alan
Is this the left side (same as the hole side)? I'd do a pick test in that area as well.
Typically if you have a hole in the lower area of the header bar, there is a hole in the upper area of the bar. For me it would be enough to warrant pulling the windshield molding and the T molding for further inspection.
It's kind of hard to tell, but that looks like a pretty good crack or area where rust is flaking. For the most part the A pillar looks pretty decent and by far better than the one we are repairing right now but I'd pull the two moldings and investigate a bit further.
IMHO
Willcox
This is the one we are working on in our shop... And yes... that is all that was left of the lower A pillar.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 21, 2016 at 05:28 PM.
Is this the left side (same as the hole side)? I'd do a pick test in that area as well.
Typically if you have a hole in the lower area of the header bar, there is a hole in the upper area of the bar. For me it would be enough to warrant pulling the windshield molding and the T molding for further inspection.
It's kind of hard to tell, but that looks like a pretty good crack or area where rust is flaking. For the most part the A pillar looks pretty decent and by far better than the one we are repairing right now but I'd pull the two moldings and investigate a bit further.
Willcox
Yes....That is the left side.
Both kick panel areas are solid, no pin holes....I really think this damage came from the T-tops leaking and soaking the pillar trim foam over the years...The reason I believe this is because of the how much more damage there is on the metal in the trim than there is on the birdcage....JMO.
If it were me, I would fill the hole with JenWeld epoxy putty after you have applied the rust treatment. If you were inclined to weld in a patch, you would have to remove the dash pad and windshield. Because the repair is so low on the pillar, I'd think the radiant heat from the welding could potentially damage the fiberglass and paint where the fender meets the cowl. Therefore, I'd go with the epoxy putty.