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Alan would you have (dumb question) a picture of the complete rear end assembly so as to see what gets painted ?
Thanks Wes
Hi Wes, these are not as good as Alan's who I am sure will hear you but when he was helping me he suggested the colors of everything for me. Last I knew he was working on the natural finish if the half shafts right down to the welds.
Not Alans, but not too bad!
RVZIO
Hi Wes, these are not as good as Alan's who I am sure will hear you but when he was helping me he suggested the colors of everything for me. Last I knew he was working on the natural finish if the half shafts right down to the welds.
Not Alans, but not too bad!
RVZIO
Like I said not Alan's but it may help.
RVZIO
Robert
Thanks for pictures .Is the spring natural or it looks white in pictures ? It may just be my computer it's old like me and doesn't see so good anymore .
Wes
Robert
Thanks for pictures .Is the spring natural or it looks white in pictures ? It may just be my computer it's old like me and doesn't see so good anymore .
Wes
Spring leaves were originally painted with a very high zinc content paint that is gray as in Roger's picture. You can buy cold galvanizing paint at Home Depot that is as close as you can get and it is very high in zinc. The zinc helps prevent rust and helps the leaves slide as the suspension moves.
Spring leaves were originally painted with a very high zinc content paint that is gray as in Roger's picture. You can buy cold galvanizing paint at Home Depot that is as close as you can get and it is very high in zinc. The zinc helps prevent rust and helps the leaves slide as the suspension moves.
Bill
Bill I have some cold galvanizing by LPS from my old airplane days .Not trying for NCRS just want to protect it .
Thank You Wes
Hi Wes,
Here's a bit of a list:
Trailing arms: medium to gloss black.
Spring mounting plate: semi-flat black.
Strut rod center mount bracket: semi-flat black.
Caliper mounting bracket: medium gloss black.
Brake calipers: medium gloss black with paint removed on machined areas/surfaces.
Rear spring: light gray; bushing retainers were un-painted.
Rear shocks: light to medium gray; bushings were un-painted.
I believe the remainder of the parts were left un-painted and showed signs of their manufacturing process.
Strut rods: forged scale finish (grayish) or natural.
Half shafts: natural end/u-joint flanges, natural u-joint parts, shafts..extruded steel.
Differential case: natural cast iron.
Lower shock/strut rod mount: natural.
Eastwood, for example, sells various paints that mimic the appearances of these various parts with varying degrees of success.
The fasteners used varied in finish from natural, to zinc, black oxide, and manganese phosphate plating.
Hope this gets you started!
Regards,
Alan
Hi Wes,
Here's a bit of a list:
Trailing arms: medium to gloss black.
Spring mounting plate: semi-flat black.
Strut rod center mount bracket: semi-flat black.
Caliper mounting bracket: medium gloss black.
Brake calipers: medium gloss black with paint removed on machined areas/surfaces.
Rear spring: light gray; bushing retainers were un-painted.
Rear shocks: light to medium gray; bushings were un-painted.
I believe the remainder of the parts were left un-painted and showed signs of their manufacturing process.
Strut rods: forged scale finish (grayish) or natural.
Half shafts: natural end/u-joint flanges, natural u-joint parts, shafts..extruded steel.
Differential case: natural cast iron.
Lower shock/strut rod mount: natural.
Eastwood, for example, sells various paints that mimic the appearances of these various parts with varying degrees of success.
The fasteners used varied in finish from natural, to zinc, black oxide, and manganese phosphate plating.
Hope this gets you started!
Regards,
Alan
Sir you are a gentleman and scholar .This is a great help although I miss your fantastic pictures
Wes
If you are going for NCRS judging, do it like Alan71 indicated and coat unpainted parts with something to keep metal from corroding. If you just want it to 'look' original, do the same but put clearcoat or metal colored paint on those items not painted at the factory. Keeping unpainted parts from corroding is a LOT of work...especially if you actually drive the car. If you paint or clearcoat EVERYTHING, you can keep it clean with a regular stint at the local quarter car wash.
If you are going for NCRS judging, do it like Alan71 indicated and coat unpainted parts with something to keep metal from corroding. If you just want it to 'look' original, do the same but put clearcoat or metal colored paint on those items not painted at the factory. Keeping unpainted parts from corroding is a LOT of work...especially if you actually drive the car. If you paint or clearcoat EVERYTHING, you can keep it clean with a regular stint at the local quarter car wash.
Thanks
Not really going for NCRS at this point so I will try a clear with flattner in it as humidity will do it's rust thing here
Wes
