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I would find it odd that a gang stamp that is routinely used with a partial VIN would have been loaded with the complete VIN. I would check with an NCRS judge as this is not what is considered normal production practice. I just checked my 68/69 NCRS T.I.M. and it references only a partial VIN stamp as being present with the engine stamp. It might still be legit but I would want further clarification or other examples that have been verified as legitimate. Sounds like a nice car though. Good luck.
I've never seen a real stamp that had any strange variable regarding the VIN configuration...ever...
Even if it did happen, I would need TONS of evidence its legit. You know what they say, extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence. This would fall into that category if it had a full vin stamped into it.
I'm looking at purchasing a 68 vette and it is advertised as numbers matching. I was sent photos of the engine, tranny. Now they all match up, however my concern is that the engine vin from what I have read is supposed to be a partial and this engine has the entire vin on it. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
I have a friend that worked at the factory and did the stamping at the St Louis plant .I will see if he is around this week end and see if he is avaible to clear up your questions.I know he told me the #s were reversed on the BB as the plug in the end of iron head got in the way of the stamp holder so the asked the New York plant to reverse the suffix code.he did say the engine and trans stamps were done at the same time.have you looked at the frame stamp?
Wes
Last edited by 530planeman; Jul 1, 2016 at 08:48 PM.
As Wes stated they are reversed on the small blocks versus big blocks, but that's been known a very long time.
The small blocks have the Vin first (on the left when looking at it to read) and date stamp on the right. The big blocks have the date stamp first and vin to the right as Alan's picture demonstrates.
Hi,
I believe this is a picture from John Hinkley.
The tray of individual digits, the holder, the hammer, and the glove!
Tough to get more than 9 digits in that holder.
Regards,
Alan
VIN derivative stamps were used on engines, transmissions, and frames, not complete VINs. Gangholder for engines and trannies; machine for the frame stamps. Complete VINs appear on the driver's windshield post and, for applicable years, the vehicle certification label on the driver's door.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jul 2, 2016 at 08:32 AM.
Lots of pad experts on this forum too if you can post some photos.
And finally IMHO, if you really like the Corvette, nothing wrong with buying it, just make sure to pay the price commensurate with matching or non matching.
1968 & 1969 NCRS manual has great info also.
Last edited by 20mercury; Jul 2, 2016 at 10:29 AM.
I believe the stamp used on the engine pad was also used on the transmission. Any slight misalignment of characters, flaws in the characters, should appear on the transmission as well. There are two sets of stamps on the pad, the larger stamp was done in Tonawanda if it's a big block, smaller serial number stamp done at St Louis. Stamp practices and fonts may not have been exactly the same.
Maybe contact Al Grenning? (Not sure of the spelling of his name) He has studied stamps for quite a long time, has a library of legit stamps, knowledge of where the restampers often slip up.
And finally IMHO, if you really like the Corvette, nothing wrong with buying it, just make sure to pay the price commensurate with matching or non matching.
Typically 20% discount or more for a non numbers car based on sparse history of resale prices for non numbers Corvettes. For non numbers, condition is especially important when the price gets north of $15K. Less wiggle room for the cost of major repairs if keeping investment near or below market value is important.
I believe the stamp used on the engine pad was also used on the transmission. Any slight misalignment of characters, flaws in the characters, should appear on the transmission as well. There are two sets of stamps on the pad, the larger stamp was done in Tonawanda if it's a big block, smaller serial number stamp done at St Louis. Stamp practices and fonts may not have been exactly the same.
Maybe contact Al Grenning? (Not sure of the spelling of his name) He has studied stamps for quite a long time, has a library of legit stamps, knowledge of where the restampers often slip up.
The fonts for the VIN number should be the same. They didnt vary. The fonts for the date stamp varied a great deal.
Al Grennings website is the website 20mercury posted. According to what I understand Al has cataloged not only good stamps but the broach marks on the stamp pads. Similar to ballistics used for matching bullets to barrels they were fired from, he has mapped out the cuts from the broaching machines used to deck the blocks from the factory. Metal has characteristics and they can be seen and quantified. As the blade wears, so does the marks it leaves behind on the stamp pad. So even if you were to have the original stamps, when you shave the block and pad (even if you used the original broaching machine) the cut today, would look different under a microscope that it would from the cut pattern 45 years ago. Thus, he can tell when the block was broached. But this service is not inexpensive. However, it could save you way more money in the long run.
yes, restamp, but that does not guarantee that its not the original engine... just not the original stamp. pretty sure the factory never stamped the full vin on the engine pad.. it was a vin derivitive. they should have spent better money getting it properly counterfeited with a broacher and a gang stamp with the correct fonts.
plus the engine stamp and the vin derivitive on this example are reversed. on a big block, the engine build date and code stamp should be on the left, vin derivitive on the right. do not pay original engine money for that car.
yes, I googled the car and it shows up in several places where its claimed as all original and sold. looks like a very nice 68 435 coupe that would go for high 30's. a correct stamp would put it much higher... if the dates did line up and the claimed doc is legit.
[QUOTE=greybeard56;1592555523]Also looks like the screw in plug in the head was cut down. Never saw one like that before they are rounded on the end and stick out from the head.
Also looks like the screw in plug in the head was cut down. Never saw one like that before they are rounded on the end and stick out from the head.
that is why the big block engine broadcast code is stamped on the block before the head is put on at tonawanda , because that water jacket plug is sticking out and the engine can't be stamped with that sticking out. looks like that plug has been ground down so the entire vin could be stamped with the head on. ( on the wrong place as stated earlier)
that is why the vin derivitive was always stamped on the right of that plug on all big blocks.