Corvette newb/ purchasing advice please!!!
#1
Corvette newb/ purchasing advice please!!!
So i have a chance to buy a c3 vette pretty cheap, but i need help. It has the stock L48 but they took out the auto transmission and put in A 4 speed with a hurst shifter. They literally welded a whole in the floor and i can see the road. I dont even know if it can go in all gears. The dealership wants it gone and they want someone to trailer it away. For 3500 that doesn't sound crazy the fiberglass is in good condition and it runs. It also has a weird idle (we think its a cam but im not familiar) sounds great when revved. Basically my question is if i buy this thing and i cant get all 4 gears how much is it to replace the original auto trans or another 4 speed. And how can i tell if the engine is good. They wont let me take it out because its sold as is and they want someone to trailer it away. Thats also how it came in. Any knowledge from anyone will be very helpful. Thank you. I am located in Northern IL, if anyone would want to come looks at it!
#4
Race Director
A couple of things to consider.
$3500 is in the normal range for a project car. Not really a bargain.
See the sticky at the top of the page for the Ten Rules of Corvette buying. If the frame is bad, you'll have overpaid by $2500.
The hardest part of switching auto to 4 speed (or back) is the pedal assembly. If there is a clutch pedal, I think you'd be better off getting the 4 speed rebuilt. That is unless you'd rather have an auto car in which case I'd skip this one anyways.
$3500 is in the normal range for a project car. Not really a bargain.
See the sticky at the top of the page for the Ten Rules of Corvette buying. If the frame is bad, you'll have overpaid by $2500.
The hardest part of switching auto to 4 speed (or back) is the pedal assembly. If there is a clutch pedal, I think you'd be better off getting the 4 speed rebuilt. That is unless you'd rather have an auto car in which case I'd skip this one anyways.
#5
I would rather have a 4 speed, my daily driver is a 5 spd. i just feel weird that i cant take it down the road and run through the gears, in the parking lot i got it into first, felt like it was gonna die out cause i wasnt giving it enough gas though and i can post 2 pics
#7
A couple of things to consider.
$3500 is in the normal range for a project car. Not really a bargain.
See the sticky at the top of the page for the Ten Rules of Corvette buying. If the frame is bad, you'll have overpaid by $2500.
The hardest part of switching auto to 4 speed (or back) is the pedal assembly. If there is a clutch pedal, I think you'd be better off getting the 4 speed rebuilt. That is unless you'd rather have an auto car in which case I'd skip this one anyways.
$3500 is in the normal range for a project car. Not really a bargain.
See the sticky at the top of the page for the Ten Rules of Corvette buying. If the frame is bad, you'll have overpaid by $2500.
The hardest part of switching auto to 4 speed (or back) is the pedal assembly. If there is a clutch pedal, I think you'd be better off getting the 4 speed rebuilt. That is unless you'd rather have an auto car in which case I'd skip this one anyways.
#9
Le Mans Master
I would really want to see the frame.
The trans hole may be normal. They just never reinstalled the rubber boot. Shifter looks really low. If it's a Muncie 4 speed it may just have the wrong handle.
Either way if it's been converted swapping to another manual is no big deal.
Under the hood has been messed with two.
Take a step back, think about it along with your skill set of fixing this and the money to do so.
The trans hole may be normal. They just never reinstalled the rubber boot. Shifter looks really low. If it's a Muncie 4 speed it may just have the wrong handle.
Either way if it's been converted swapping to another manual is no big deal.
Under the hood has been messed with two.
Take a step back, think about it along with your skill set of fixing this and the money to do so.
Last edited by ddawson; 07-19-2016 at 05:43 PM.
#11
Safety Car
Dissenting opinion here, but if the frame/birdcage isn't rotted, I'd be okay at that price. I see a lot of good in the car, ugly as it shows. They may not let you take it out on the road, but surely they'd let you move it around the lot to assess brakes and steering. You can check operation of other things, like wipers, lights and such. Other issues, like road worthiness (overheating, vibrations, rattles and all that) you wouldn't know until it was on the road. Some stuff is obvious, like the missing A/C compressor but it seems like it's mostly there.
#12
Burning Brakes
The main issue on these cars in this condition are being honest with yourself about your skill level/knowledge/budget/motivation/working area, and the commitment to see it thru to the end.
$3500.00 is seemingly cheap, but is it really for you in the long run?
$3500.00 is seemingly cheap, but is it really for you in the long run?
#13
Starting in reverse, I do want to keep it for the long run atleast 25 years, i know money will have to go into it. My plans short term is just to cruise to cars shows an work on it with my dad, I myself, am not a MR. Goodwrench, quite the opposite, but i do know money will be need to put in but the other end of it for right now i just want to drive 25 minutes away to take it to the car show with the wife!
#14
Dissenting opinion here, but if the frame/birdcage isn't rotted, I'd be okay at that price. I see a lot of good in the car, ugly as it shows. They may not let you take it out on the road, but surely they'd let you move it around the lot to assess brakes and steering. You can check operation of other things, like wipers, lights and such. Other issues, like road worthiness (overheating, vibrations, rattles and all that) you wouldn't know until it was on the road. Some stuff is obvious, like the missing A/C compressor but it seems like it's mostly there.
#15
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: NSW, Australia
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C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
If you're willing to work on it yourself, and learn how to work on it, then it might be a good buy, assuming you check it for rust etc first. I'd also have it checked by a specialist BEFORE purchase, given it sounds like you don't really know what you're looking at, and if they're going to do the work on it then they should be able to give you an idea of what it needs and a ballpark on the cost. I think this car, looking at it, will cost a lot if you pay someone else to work on it an make it right. But if you work on it yourself it appears that it might be a decent basis for a project, reasonable interior etc.
#16
Le Mans Master
More money than I would pay for a car needing a lot of work.If he came down 1000 and you can do the work buy it and have some fun .Offer 2 then haggle to 2500.if its junk you did not get hurt to bad.
#17
Melting Slicks
If you're willing to work on it yourself, and learn how to work on it, then it might be a good buy, assuming you check it for rust etc first. I'd also have it checked by a specialist BEFORE purchase, given it sounds like you don't really know what you're looking at, and if they're going to do the work on it then they should be able to give you an idea of what it needs and a ballpark on the cost. I think this car, looking at it, will cost a lot if you pay someone else to work on it an make it right. But if you work on it yourself it appears that it might be a decent basis for a project, reasonable interior etc.
Unless you really like working on cars I'd spend more up front and
get less of a project, even if you need to save up first.
#18
Pro