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3. If the tank has to be removed to repair it.......have it brazed at the cracked/punctured area and pressure tested to 5 P.S.I to make sure there are no leaks!
4. A QUALITY FIRE EXTINGUISHER EVEN IF THE LEAK IS REPAIRED!
I think when the gas tank is only about 3 feet behind the back of my head, the last thing i would do is try and putty it up. A new tank is only about 200 bucks from any forum vendor.
I think when the gas tank is only about 3 feet behind the back of my head, the last thing i would do is try and putty it up. A new tank is only about 200 bucks from any forum vendor.
True about a new tank.
I assumed the tank itself was at fault. But that tank looks fairly new......
maybe an attachment to the tank has failed/plastic "part" has cracked/hose has cracked/clamp has loosened.
Simple question, simple answer, pull the tank, find the leak. Bring it back to factory specs, whatever it takes. This is not something to do a half a$$ed job on.
Are you certain that it's the tank that's leaking? Can't really see the point of initiation from that photo. How about the plastic fuel separator gizmo? ..rubber hose?
Ok but the question is what's the recommendation on fixing it? lol what type of sealant is recommended etc.. etc..
You need to find what's leaking. Doorgunner said brazing, but that won't work if it's the rubber hose or plastic. When we know what's leaking, we can give better advice.
Perhaps you think a leak is simply caused by 1 single pinhole in the metal tank. And that brazing it shut would be the remedy. I thought the same thing when I smelled gas fumes one Christmas Eve long ago. Turns out my ignorance of having the tank completely full while in winter storage caused a whole series of pin holes around the perimeter at the fuel level. Brazing would have been a daunting task at best.
I bought the POR 15 gas tank kit. The last step is a ceramic sealer that covers every interior surface. Not only did this kit repair the leak (and all the potential leaks) but it sealed the metal from the gasoline. I have many times over the last 20-some years, only left a small puddle of fuel in the bottom of the tank over winter. Ethanol fuel too. It can't corrode the metal because it is separated from the gas by the ceramic coating. POR 15 is the product I used. By now there may be other brands that do the same thing. I liked that it was a 3 step process--cleaner, metal etch and ceramic coating. Of course, the whole tank had to be removed to do the job properly.
R&R'ing with a new replacement tank would be quicker. But you're leaving yourself open to the same nature of corrosion in the future.
Perhaps you think a leak is simply caused by 1 single pinhole in the metal tank. And that brazing it shut would be the remedy. I thought the same thing when I smelled gas fumes one Christmas Eve long ago. Turns out my ignorance of having the tank completely full while in winter storage caused a whole series of pin holes around the perimeter at the fuel level. Brazing would have been a daunting task at best.
I bought the POR 15 gas tank kit. The last step is a ceramic sealer that covers every interior surface. Not only did this kit repair the leak (and all the potential leaks) but it sealed the metal from the gasoline. I have many times over the last 20-some years, only left a small puddle of fuel in the bottom of the tank over winter. Ethanol fuel too. It can't corrode the metal because it is separated from the gas by the ceramic coating. POR 15 is the product I used. By now there may be other brands that do the same thing. I liked that it was a 3 step process--cleaner, metal etch and ceramic coating. Of course, the whole tank had to be removed to do the job properly.
R&R'ing with a new replacement tank would be quicker. But you're leaving yourself open to the same nature of corrosion in the future.
If your car is a 1978 to 1982...the tank has a plastic inner liner in it. The new fuel tank do not have liner/bladder in them.
SO...even if you fix this area...and your tank applies to what I wrote....now you will always have fuel between the bladder and the tank and it can spring a leak somewhere else.
Easy way to tell if the car has a bladder in it is there is a 'T' fitting mounted on the top of the fuel tank where your EVAP system connects to. This 'T' fitting balances the pressure on the outside of the bladder and the pressure in the fuel tank itself....because the 'T' fitting also connects to a tube on your sending unit.
Which also is why I am emphatic about the EVAP system and the fuel vapor line from the tank to the charcoal canister is all correct.
Easy way to tell if the car has a bladder in it is there is a 'T' fitting mounted on the top of the fuel tank where your EVAP system connects to. This 'T' fitting balances the pressure on the outside of the bladder and the pressure in the fuel tank itself....because the 'T' fitting also connects to a tube on your sending unit.
Which also is why I am emphatic about the EVAP system and the fuel vapor line from the tank to the charcoal canister is all correct.
DUB
My '77 had a bladder. Replacement tanks still have the vent fitting meant to vent the bladder even though they don't have one. At least the one I installed did.
Fuel tank leak
