When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
To start the year I was able to initiate removing the rear shock(s), F41 spring, half shaft(s) and trailing arm(s). Sprayed PB Blaster on all nuts and bolts over a number of months as I busied myself with the front end and such. A few pictures:
And now the differential bushings are removed. I bent back the tabs, applied WD40 let it set for 10 minutes and used my handy hammer with a few good whacks. Presto, they are out !
Next "Big" step is off to have it blasted/powder coated.
I'm thinking a "Pink" frame may be interesting :-)
Hi C,
Interesting photos and interesting rear spring.
I'd expect to see a 9 leaf, or maybe a 7 leaf, but not an 8 leaf?
Typically service replacement springs were 10 leafs.
Also typically the top 3 leafs are straight.. not just the top most.
The stencil?.... part of part number?
Maybe a spring someone put together from available pieces?
The alignment shims with the hole rather than the slot are nice to see.
Regards,
Alan
Hi C,
Interesting photos and interesting rear spring.
I'd expect to see a 9 leaf, or maybe a 7 leaf, but not an 8 leaf?
Typically service replacement springs were 10 leafs.
Also typically the top 3 leafs are straight.. not just the top most.
The stencil?.... part of part number?
Maybe a spring someone put together from available pieces?
The alignment shims with the hole rather than the slot are nice to see.
Regards,
Alan
Alan, could someone have installed a HD 7 leaf spring and included the 'additional top plate either because of having the wrong bolts or lack of knowledge ?
Not making a lot of sense to me this AM.
Just measured the width of the spring, 2 1/4" inches ( 63' to 77' ) so I'm thinking someone made an adjustment for the bolt length by adding the eighth piece (top plate ).
Make any sense to you ?
Hi C,
I believe this is the typical configuration for a 9 leaf spring.
3 straight, 6 arched leafs.
Ends of top 8 leafs curved up at their ends.
Tapers cut into the sides of the ends of the upper 8 leafs.
Regards,
Alan
Hi C,
I believe this is the typical configuration for a 9 leaf spring.
3 straight, 6 arched leafs.
Ends of top 8 leafs curved up at their ends.
Tapers cut into the sides of the ends of the upper 8 leafs.
Regards,
Alan
Thank you Alan for the follow up I've learned a great deal this morning and it's not even 8am :-)
You're a good man, I'll buy your next coffee.
This from a post by Eaton Detroit Spring on this forum/09-24-2009
Learn something everyday :-)
Default 3 diferent springs were used
The most popular rear leaf springs used were 2 different versions of a 9 leaf springs and a 7 leaf spring. A 10 leaf spring was used very sparingly. But we will not talk about it.
The diferences between the springs were thier rates. The down and dirty description of rate is it is the amount of weight required to deflect a spring one inch. The higher the rate, the stiffer the spring.
The 7 leaf spring has a rate of 305lbs.
The 9 leaf spring which all 9 leaves are curved has a rate of 196lbs.
The 9 leaf spring which the 1st 6 leaves are curved and the shortest 3 leaves are straight is a 2 stage or variable rate spring. It's rate starts at 140lbs and increases to 196lbs when all the leaves are touching.
The loads they were designed to carry are all pretty much the same.
The 7 leaf has a design load of 1,325 lbs. Both 9 leaf springs have a design load of 1,360 lbs.
All 3 springs are designed to have a 3/8 reverse arch when at their design load.
In order to accomplish the same spring height when under load with the spring having different spring rates, the free arch of each spring is different.
The free arch of the 7 leaf spring is 5-7/8 inches. The 9 leaf spring is 7-1/2 inches and the 6/3 spring is 8-11/16 inches.
The correct way to measure the free arch is for the spring to be off the vehicle. Place a straight edge across the ends of the spring and measure down to the main plate next to the centerbolt.
Whle we use the correct type of steel, SAE 5160 High Alloy Spring Steel, the thickness's have been adjusted to sizes the steel mills now produce. Way back when the mills would produce quantities as low as 5 tons of a size. Today 22 tons is the bare minimum of one size they will produce. And that is a lot of Corvette springs.
While the overall thickness of the springs have slightly increased, the fit, feel and performance of the springs are unchanged. However the free arches have been lowered form the original factory specs in order to maintain stock ride height.
I hope this helps at least some in understanding leaf springs.
Rolled the frame out today ( it was a 75 degree day here in LA and bountiful sunshine ) flipped it with my gantry crane, sat it on some horses and repair some impressions in the front crossmember with my new tool. As I ventured into this the piece that had to be installed into the crossmember had to be cut down about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch. After that it helped to thread the bolt into the nut on the plate before hand with a little WD40 so as it would thread when needed. Interesting tool to say the least, luckily I didn't have to much to repair, just **** on my end I guess. At the point I'm at why not ?
nice progress , you would be getting close to prep the frame and put some color on it ?
Just sent the frame and a few parts Powder Coating Co. may receive it back this Friday or next Monday. It's really a big deal for me as I've never done this before. Picked up a few items for minor degreasing and minor rust removal so I can apply a primer and paint a few things on my own. Still tossing around a few ideas regarding breaks, steering system and suspension tweaks to make them perform better, we'll see. Exciting none the less to have turned the corner. I've learned a great deal on this project. Thanks for asking.
Last edited by caskiguy; 01-31-2018 at 07:21 PM.
Reason: spell check
01-09-2018, 06:47 PM
